등정들 n호주에서 Dave Scarlett에 의한 trad-cpr 또는 ascent-date를 가진

A dirty start leads to a fantastic bridging and jamming sequence through the crux roof crack. (Yes, jamming is essential.) After that struggle, it gets much easier, with the second roof being much less strenuous. Gear: thin-hand to wide-hand size cams for the first roof, a fist-size cam for the second roof, and good nuts available in between.

Got hit with a hail storm upon topping out!

Delicate and unprotected traverse start (though with double ropes you could place gear high in Penny Dreadful before the traverse), then lovely climbing up the corner above.

Early crux, just after the pitons, where everything that looks like it should be a good hold will turn out to be rounded and slippery! Eases a couple of grades after the traverse right is over. P3 is crazy but well protected, hauling on jugs and jams through a huge roof, and is well worth doing.

Old school grading - you'll want to be able to jam. Awkward and difficult start to the corner gets better as you get higher. Takes good passive gear, and then a BD C4 #2 size cam is very useful for the final loose hands crack.

Very easy, with the hole probably being the crux. Bring a long sling for a big thread in the hole.

Very hard start for the grade, but well protectable. A big cam (fist size) is useful for the finish. Don't bother going all the way to the top of the cliff - rappelling from the All Stitched Up anchors is much more pleasant than the walk off.

Nice and consistent climbing with a wild finish through the roof. The final bolt seems to be positioned way too far right though, with the most reasonably point to tackle the roof (especially at this grade!) being about a meter left of the bolt.

Only gear needed is 2-3 cams in the hand to fist range for the initial traverse.

Hard work almost all the way, easing only at the final thin hand crack. Takes lots of micro to medium nuts, and micro cams are very useful in the middle crack which is flaring and difficult to get good nut placements in.

A harder start compared to Overkill, with fiddly gear and a slight runout, but then a slightly easier finish. Small nuts and micro cams useful down low. Managed to get a #3 WC Helium Friend in a pocket above the ledge, but not many other cams of that size would be narrow enough (side to side) to fit there.

Super steep and very reachy up to the cave. Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off! After the cave is thin and fiddly gear, but easier climbing. Descent back and right past base of MOAFHG.

Rested on gear before figuring out the low crux.

Difficult, sustained, pumpy, and probably harder than 19. Climbs mainly on small flat edges with little opportunity for decent rest. Takes cams up to hand size, and lots of small nuts. Crux is a series of moves through a 3m runout which could possibly be lessened with RPs.

Fell on gear from the crux.

Massively sandbagged. Got up to where the crack widens to fist width, then rested a whole lot, eventually got to the lip of the roof (very painful hand jams then face holds) but came off there and retreated. Doesn't need any cams bigger than BD #4.

Mostly easy, with a couple of tricky sections - the traverse left on P1 is a bit thin, and then the roof on P2 is quite thuggish, but everything in between is uninspiring. Done as one big pitch, and had huge rope drag by the roof crux finish, even with double ropes. Took cams up to BD #2, but it looked like a #4 would have been handy for mid-crux, just above the roof.

Nice climbing, but quite short. Takes mainly small to medium nuts for pro. Ring bolts for the rappel, but they aren't in a great position for using as a belay, so a trad belay may be necessary.

Awesome jamming, thrutching, and bridging. Quite well protected, except some of the wide crack sections, which would need a BD #5 size cam. Didn't actually end up placing any cams larger than BD #2, but hexes were super useful, and there are surprisingly a lot of placements for nuts of all sizes.

Hard for the grade with desperately thin hand jams in a very sandy crack. Hard moves getting up onto the obvious block in the crack, and then more above that where the crack gets to its thinnest.

Big runout between bolts 1 and 2 (mediocre small nuts and/or micro cams in the crack right of the arete are possible), though easy climbing in that section, then really ramping up in difficulty from bolt 2 to the top, with reachy moves on thin holds.

Hard moves pulling through the roof, and then again after the last bolt. A couple of hand to thin hand size cams will adequately project the easy middle section. Bring an extra long draw for the second bolt (under the roof).

Fell on the third bolt when a foot slipped pulling past the roof. Came down and got it second try.

Quite vegetated, as the name suggests. Started up Double Digit Inflammation to avoid the worst of it.

Easy lower half, then ramping up in the upper section when it becomes a hand then fist jamming crack. A BD #3 and #4 would be plenty to protect the wide finish. I think I placed two #3s.

Very reachy crux between bolts 2 and 3. The pockets at the top were surprisingly fairly juggy. Placed a mediocre BD #1 size cam in a pocket above bolt 2, thin hand size cams in the horizontal break, and then a thin finger size cam in a pocket about a foot up from the break.

Seemed that many of the bolts were unnecessary, almost turning it into a sport route. Only placed a couple of knuckle-size nuts in the crack leading to the ledge on the arete, and a BD #1 and #2 in the break above the crux (#3 probably would have been better). Not convinced that this is a significant improvement on the original.

Easy start, then ramps up once the wide crack is reached. The wide section has a thin hands crack at the back, so no big gear is needed, but take care not to lose cams in there! (There was a very much fixed BD #0.75 in there already.) Above the wide section is a crux hand crack finish which may be a touch soft for the grade.

Easy start, getting much harder after the first rest Pinnacle on the arete, pulling from a sloping horizontal break to small crimps. Second pitch was surprisingly tough too, climbing a diagonal finger crack which suddenly closes up. Gear: mostly nuts and medium cams, with hand size cams being particularly useful, especially for the belay. A wide crack at the belay might have also taken a cam larger than fist size. Led pitch 1, seconded P2.

Full value for the grade! Not to hard up to the roof, with plenty of bridging around the crack. The upper section then delivers strenuous laybacking without much in the way of bridging opportunities. Gear: cams to BD #4, with doubles in #1 and #4 useful, though a single #4 would do if reserved for the finish. #5 also could alternatively be useful for the finish.

Lovely climbing, but a bit of a sandbag. Very sustained, except for the big ledge at 1/3 height, and offers a good variety of climbing throughout. Crux was between bolts 4 and 5, with the top being easier but more committing.

Inspected the gear on rappel. Ended up placing a loose-finger size cam in the back of a pocket between bolts 4 and 5 (a bigger cam, maybe first sized might also have worked), and another of the same size in a right-facing vertical slot 1.5m up from the final bolt.

Lovely hand jamming, shame it's so short.

Nice jamming and bridging.

Overgrown, poorly protected (but easy start), then easy, ledgy climbing to about 3/4 height before getting slightly harder. There's maybe one move of offwidth climbing at the top. Would probably only be grade 16 at Frog Buttress. Rappel to the ledge and start from there for a more worthwhile experience. Great: Full range of nuts (or small nuts plus medium hexes), cams with doubles in #1-2, and a #3 and/or #4 make the upper section more comfortable.

A bit silly, really existing only because of the outrageously exposed hanging belay. Difficult start through the horizontal break leads to a series of poor, sloping pockets, with fiddly and spaced gear. Pockets take big cams (BD C4 #3-4), them smaller cams, with some small nuts also available. On the whole, quite hard for the grade, and with fiddly gear.

Not well defined in the lower half, but lovely once you hit the big flake. Double ropes can help avoid drag by having the left rope go over the flake. Mainly medium cams, with an optional #4 placement when moving out of the cave.

Led on pre-placed gear. Steep, pumpy, and quite hard for the grade, with some mediocre handholds through the middle, and being sustained right to the top. Take lots of finger size cams. The big horizontal break near the top will take a DB C4 #4 cam easily, or a smaller cam (#1 perhaps) at the far left end at the cost of being more awkward to fiddle in.

Led on pre-placed gear. Wanders and has a 4-5m runout, so double ropes are very beneficial. Take micro cams for the chalked up horizontal before the traverse left, and medium cams for the big angled slot at the left end of the traverse, these being the last placements before the runout. It might have been possible to get something around BD C4 #0.75 size in a slot above the bulge above the last cams. Even when good cams become available when the wall goes from overhanging to vertical, it's still very difficult to place them due to poor hands, and a fall from there would be bad.

Plugged too many cams in the crux and obstructed the best jams.

Consistent, easy jug hauling. 23 minutes from bottom to top.

Lovely! Interesting moves up the flake to start, then excellent gear from the major horizontal all the way to the top, with the crack increasing in difficulty toward the top. Takes mainly medium to large nuts, with some smaller nuts and finger to hand size cams.

Difficult to know where to traverse into the line, but then the crack is quite straightforward (though jamming is essential), and the finish a little committing. Gear mainly small to medium cams up to BD C4 #2, some nuts, hexes would probably also work. A #4 cam makes the finish a little less committing.

Mainly easy slab climbing, venturing into the chimney crack and over a couple of big chockstones (bring long slings!) to finish.

Difficult and bouldery crux start, then easy but difficult to protect slab above. RPs or other micro nuts essential.

Balancy and a bit runout through the middle, but not too difficult. Good gear before the roof, though it's at the far right side, so long quickdraws are essential. The roof itself (crux) is jug hauling with poor feet, and the position of the bolt can make for some bad rope drag once you're above it.

Amazing. Quite runout, and over very small gear, but the fact that there's good feet (and hence rest available) the whole way makes that much easier to deal with. The crux is the start, and is bouldery and difficult to protect. Once through that, the traverse right is unprotected, but easy and with good gear at both ends. Then there's an additional runout when you move back left.

Gear: Mainly RPs and small nuts, with occasional small cams and bigger nuts, and a few bigger cam placements (up to BD #0.75) in the upper half.

Pitch 1 is pretty average - a hard start on slippery rock breaks down after the roof into easy but vegetated climbing. Pitch 3 is the money pitch and is easily linked with P2 if using double ropes.

Accidentally started just left of Eskimo Nell instead of much further left, and gave myself terrible rope drag on pitch 1! Would have been much more enjoyable if not for that. Pitch 2's crux is pretty outrageous, though well protected with a BD #3 or #4 size cam.