도움

등정들 Victoria에서 Dave Scarlett에 의한 trad-cpr 또는 ascent-date를 가진

~에 탐색하기:

등정 필터들 :

  • Protection
  • Journey
  • Milestone
  • Wearable
-

루트 필터들:

등반가 필터들:

~에 의한 분류

{수} {대상들}에서 {별}-{끝} 보이기

등급 루트 장비 스타일
일요일 24번째 4월 2022 - Arapiles
King Rat Area Lizard Procrastination Pinnacle
11 Lizard Procrastination - 누구와 Jill B 전통등반 40m 좋음
The vertical, wide crack thrutch at the top seems like an unreasonable ask at the alleged grade.

 
21 Cruel Consistency 전통등반 15m 아주좋음
Thin and cruxy through the middle, before the juggy roof finish brings relief. Took one rest at the crux.

 
토요일 23번째 4월 2022 - Arapiles
Pilot Error Cliffs Pilot Error Area
14 Tarzan - 누구와 Sean Bourke, Jill B 전통등반 33m 아주좋음
If the starting moves were half way up the route, this would probably be graded 20. Very nice climbing once you're through there bouldery start, but definitely not recommended for those only just leading 14!

 
18 Daily Planet - 누구와 Sean Bourke, Jill B 전통등반 20m 클래식
Amazing! Full value and very thought provoking at the grade. A little reachy in parts, and often gives you good hands or feet, but not both. Gear wasn't bad, and I managed to sew it up with 9 very solid placements, mostly small nuts and micro to loose fingers sized cams. Double ropes helped a lot by allowing wandering placements without rope drag, and the gear in the first half was all there, but certainly trickier than the top half. Didn't use any RPs, but it looked like they could awkwardly be placed in the middle of the sickle crack crux. Much easier to just place a good cam at the start and end of the crack. The chimney and traverse start is easy, and I didn't bother protecting it. Just consider it part of the walk in instead if you don't like it.

 
일요일 6번째 2월 2022 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking 혼합 고전등반 21m, 1 아주좋음
토요일 30번째 11월 2019 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Syrinx Area
11 The Dribble 전통등반 120m 아주좋음
Very nice, and a little reminiscent of Spiegal's Overhang at Cathedral Range. Shame it's a bit harder to descend from!

As with Spiegal's, pitch 3 is the money pitch.

Partial shade at the 2nd and 3rd belays. Final pitch finishes at a ledge with options to walk left to join Syrinx, or walk right to presumably reach the wheelchair lookout. You can also continue straight up through the short overhang, extending the pitch length to about 40m, to get to the very top, then walk left and scramble down to the Missing Link/Bluffs area.

 
토요일 30번째 11월 2019 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
11 Trapeze 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
월요일 28번째 10월 2019 - The Cathedral Range
North Jawbone
10 Speigal's Overhang 전통등반 120m 아주좋음
P1 nice slabbing but poorly protected, maybe up to 5m runouts, and is probably the crux pitch. P2 more slabbing around a bush-filled crack. P3 is the money pitch, beautiful climbing up a corner crack and two overhangs (at grade 10!), with jamming being strictly optional. P4 easy climbing up a trench and slabs to the top.

All belays except for the end of P3 are narrow stances, so wouldn't recommend climbing this as a three. Rappel anchors (2 x 55m rappels) are only 10-15m left of the end of the climb, below a tree, and the path marked is by a couple of cairns.

Gear: Cams from finger size up to loose hands (Camalot #2).

 
토요일 28번째 9월 2019 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk
16 SPQR Right-hand Variant 전통등반 12m 좋음
Steep, finger crack finish adds a bit of value to the route.

 
11 Sweet Chariot 전통등반 16m 좋음
Requires a bit of jamming and grovelling. Definitely not one for gym climbers who are new to the outdoors.

 
일요일 25번째 8월 2019 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk
12 Persecution 전통등반 13m 좋음
Finish up the arete for maximum value.

 
10 SPQR 전통등반 13m 아주좋음
Surprisingly tricky start, both in terms of moves and protection.

 
13 Gladiator 전통등반 12m 좋음
Good, but beware that there's very little protection in the (easier) first half.

 
14 Cuniculum 전통등반 12m
A tricky start and some painful hand jams.

 
13 Brutus 전통등반 10m 아주좋음
Quite good, despite its short length, with some nice bridging and laybacking.

 
토요일 30번째 3월 2019 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge
17 Breau Bummel 전통등반 30m 좋음
An awkward thrutch getting into the bulging hand crack, and once you're there you might have hand jams, but still no feet!

 
토요일 30번째 3월 2019 - Arapiles
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
13 Ivan 전통등반 14m 좋음
토요일 30번째 3월 2019 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
16 Skylark 전통등반 85m 아주좋음
An early crux pulling through the bulge on sparse holds, then cruisy to the top. Mostly small nut pro, big cams unnecessary. Looked like a decent belay ledge at 30-35m.

 
18 Skylark Direct Finish 전통등반 38m 아주좋음
Committing moves through the mantle, with decent protection but the potential to swing into a side-wall if you come off.

 
19 Pfeffernusse 혼합 고전등반 23m, 1 좋음
일요일 6번째 1월 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking 혼합 고전등반 21m, 1 아주좋음
일요일 6번째 1월 2019 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
16 Split Images 혼합 고전등반 20m, 2 좋음
일요일 18번째 11월 2018 - Victoria Range
Red Rock Area Red Rock Pinnacles Espanol Pinnacle
16 No Habla Espanol 전통등반 14m 좋음
A 16 that starts with a bottomless wide crack? Surely this is a sandbag. Fun moves off the ground but it's over very quickly. A BD #3 and/or #4 sized cam is very useful.

 
토요일 17번째 11월 2018 - Victoria Range
Mt Fox Area Emu Rock
17 Sahara 전통등반 90m 클래식
P1 long and consistent, well protected, though a bit wandery to find the best climbing, as it isn't really a defined line. P2 quickly eases and becomes cruisy, before a ridiculous finish involving either traversing along the lip of an overhang, or pulling up over it early and thrutching through.

Gear: Lots of small nuts, cams to BD#2

 
일요일 11번째 11월 2018 - Camels Hump
Eastern Outcrops Back Wall
19 Rap Till You Crap 전통등반 15m 좋음
월요일 27번째 8월 2018 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Left Golden Fleece Wall
15 Beautiful Possibilities 전통등반 30m 아주좋음
Very nice once you get away from the greasy rock of Jason. Awesome moves pulling through the bulge near the top.

 
일요일 26번째 8월 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
10 The Crouded Hurricane Staircase - 누구와 Camilla Kasker 전통등반 40m 좋음
일요일 26번째 8월 2018 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Front Wall and West Face
10 The Shroud 전통등반 120m 클래식
Really nice the whole way. Climbed the right-facing corner 2m left of the usual line for pitches 2-3 in order to avoid another party. These two pitches can be strung together in order to overtake, rejoining the usual line at the chimney.

 
토요일 25번째 8월 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
16 Libretto 전통등반 50m 아주좋음
Very nice. The bulging wide crack corner at the end of P1 was a pleasant surprise (for those masochistically inclined), though is easily avoidable. P2 has a very definite crux right off the ledge, but is all over after the first few meters. Takes mostly finger size nuts and cams, though a loose-hands size cam is useful if you want to take the corner crack finish to P1.

 
일요일 29번째 7월 2018 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
11 Trapeze 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
17 Swinging 혼합 고전등반 20m, 2 아주좋음
토요일 28번째 7월 2018 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
14 Gecko 전통등반 48m 아주좋음
The crack sections are easy, the slabs trickier, and then it's difficult to know where to go to find the "path of least resistance" after the second crack. I ended slightly left of the rap chain, which was tough, committing and lacking protection. Double ropes seemed to help.

 
16 16 R Brolga 전통등반 90m 클래식
P1: Sustained pitch, but reasonably well protected with double ropes and micro cams. P2: Mostly cruisy but with a committing crux and sparse protection above the mid-pitch ledge. P3: Easy after the first 5m. Led P1 and P2.

Gear: micro cams and small nuts/RPs, occasional medium size cams, hand-size cams for the belays. Double ropes pretty much essential.

 
일요일 20번째 5월 2018 - Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)
Bad Moon Rising Wall
8 Octohexarian 전통등반 20m 좋음
Definite crux in the slightly bulging chimney around 1/3-1/2 height. Otherwise cruisy with plenty of jugs.

 
9 Strong Social Conscience 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
Very nice, but tough for the grade. Difficulty ramps up in the second half, and rope drag will be a major issue unless you place protection sparsely and with long runners - especially when exiting the cave.

 
토요일 19번째 5월 2018 - Summerday Valley
Tunnel Cliff
10 Eye Of The Needle 전통등반 25m 좋음
토요일 19번째 5월 2018 - Summerday Valley
Wall of Fools
21 Soweto 전통등반 30m 클래식
15 Flake of Fear 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
토요일 19번째 5월 2018 - Summerday Valley
Back Wall
10 10 R Bored of the Rings 전통등반 12m 좋음
Gear was ok, but having small and micro cams was definitely useful.

 
토요일 21번째 4월 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Omega Block
16 Wishful Thinking 혼합 고전등반 21m, 1 아주좋음
토요일 21번째 4월 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
17 Poxbow 전통등반 30m 아주좋음
Frighteningly sparse gear through the corner at 1/2 height. Managed to get two cams in, a red and a blue, where the crack opens a metre below the hard moves there, but neither were ideal placements. That's definitely the mental crux, with the physical crux being the top of the finishing flake.

 
일요일 25번째 3월 2018 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
15 Flying Moose 전통등반 23m 좋음
Nice and consistent climbing, a good addition to this wall.

Led on Hywel Rowlands' pre-placed gear.

 
19 Pfeffernusse 혼합 고전등반 23m, 1 좋음
Tough moves getting through the bolt-protected bulge at the start, then easier slab climbing in the middle, before a slight committing finish. Quite nice.

 
토요일 24번째 3월 2018 - Arapiles
Atridae Muldoon Area
13 Muldoon 전통등반 42m 완전 구식
토요일 24번째 3월 2018 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
10 D Major 전통등반 50m 아주좋음
Very nice. Much more interesting than D Minor, I thought.

 
월요일 12번째 3월 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
16 Blind Justice 혼합 고전등반 40m, 5 아주좋음
Nice and long, with a slabby, bolt-protected crux passing the obvious roof. The only runout section is the grade 15 start shared with Blind Sox, after that there's plenty of pro.

 
수요일 28번째 2월 2018 - Camels Hump
Omega Block Area Lower Tier
10 Grey Arete 전통등반 32m 좋음
15 Blind Sox 혼합 고전등반 30m, 3 좋음
Very thin on gear. Micro cams useful for both the slab and the arete.

 
16 Split Images 혼합 고전등반 20m, 2 좋음
Tricky slab moves around the second bolt.

 
일요일 10번째 12월 2017 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Centurion Area
17 Centurion 전통등반 20m 아주좋음
Not quite as good as I recalled, but still very good by Werribee standards. 10m of good jamming, then gets ledgy and easier.

 
일요일 10번째 12월 2017 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk
17 Conscientious Pontius 전통등반 13m 아주좋음
일요일 26번째 11월 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Back Wall
14 Lamplighter 전통등반 78m 클래식
An excellent, shady outing, but quite tough for the grade, with difficult sections at the start of P2 (past the old piton), the offwidth in the middle of P2, and the traverse on P3. P2 doesn't need cams any bigger than BD #2, but a #4 is useful on P3. If rope-drag permits, extending P2 all the way to the cave makes for a better belay than the ledge below the chimney.

 
토요일 25번째 11월 2017 - Arapiles
Fang Buttress and Surrounds Fang Buttress
14 Mantis 전통등반 33m 아주좋음
토요일 25번째 11월 2017 - Arapiles
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall
11 Transylvania 혼합 고전등반 60m, 1 좋음
16 Helictite 전통등반 8m 좋음
일요일 12번째 11월 2017 - Summerday Valley
Back Wall
17 Overkill 전통등반 23m 아주좋음
9 Odlid Baggins (Variant) 전통등반 25m 좋음
Nice corner climbing, though protection at the start didn't look great.

 
18 The Lost Pleiad 전통등반 16m 좋음
18 The Lost Pleiad 전통등반 16m 좋음
토요일 11번째 11월 2017 - Summerday Valley
Back Wall
12 De Blanc 전통등반 20m 좋음
A slightly polished, slippery start, then nice, well protected corner climbing above.

 
16 Tom Cobbley's Cllmb 전통등반 20m 좋음
Surprisingly sparse and tricky protection, especially above the ledge when attempting to reach the horizontal break beneath the overhang. This felt more serious than Overkill.

There seemed to be better gear out to the right, but then the much more reasonable (but otherwise unprotected) climbing was to the left, meaning a big swing and possibly hitting a ledge if you fell.

 
일요일 15번째 10월 2017 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Right Watchtower Face
18 Skink 전통등반 110m 클래식
Just awesome. Delicate, exposed, and mostly well-protected. P2 only has one hard section - a slabby and committing move after the traverse, whereas P3 is easier but much more sustained, with moves at the grade until after the first corner of the flake is passed. Led P2.

Gear: You could probably get away with no cams larger than BD #1, but there were a few places where a #2 or #3 could be placed. Microcams very useful for the crux. Save a hand-size cam for the end of the traverse.

 
토요일 14번째 10월 2017 - Arapiles
Far North Lower Curtain Wall
18 Entertainer 전통등반 20m 클래식
Hard! Rested on gear during the flake layback crux, above just before reaching the corner, and then at the final roof. Take LOTS of cams in the finger to knuckle sizes. Nothing bigger needed, except a BD #0.75 and #2 for the final roof.

BETA: Crux gaining and moving up the flake, which has decent hands but very poor feet, and placing gear (small nuts or knuckle size cams) from the layback is very difficult. Traversing over the flake wasn't bad, but then it becomes about 2m runout after the left trending crack ends, eventually broken by a horizontal finger slot to the right just before the corner, which will take a micro cam. The corner is relatively easy, then the final roof is just burly jug hauling. A 0.75 cam can be placed in the chalked up jug slots under the roof, then a #2 immediately after pulling through the roof.

 
토요일 14번째 10월 2017 - Arapiles
Far North Hum Terrace
16 17 The Second Affinity (Affinity) 전통등반 22m 아주좋음
Committing crux moves out of the cave and up to the roof, but lots of gear available just before there. Lovely traverse moves out under the roof, then easier climbing up the corner. Only placed cams up to BD #1, I think.

 
16 Hum 전통등반 30m 아주좋음
일요일 17번째 9월 2017 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk
12 Persecution 전통등반 13m 좋음
Trying to convince some gym climbers to practice jamming. Unfortunately it's easy to avoid jamming on this route, even though the loose-hands sized crack is excellent.

 
15 Marcus Schaevola 전통등반 25m 좋음
Several cams in the hands to loose hands range are useful. Committing layback finish.

 
일요일 10번째 9월 2017 - Mt Rosea
Main Cliff
14 Gridlocked 전통등반 40m 좋음
Nice and consistent climbing. Evidently still a little bit of loose rock.

 
토요일 9번째 9월 2017 - Mt Rosea
Main Cliff
17 Heretic 전통등반 120m 클래식
A fantastic outing with committing sections on each of the three middle pitches - P2 when the thin cracks appear on the right wall and you need to move out of the corner, P3 from the ledge up through the crack with the void behind it, and the last 10m of P4 when route-finding becomes difficult. (I ignored the blank, ~1.5m tall corner with the roof and crack above it, and instead traversed right to climb the adjacent face before moving back left into the crack.)

Led pitches 2, 4. Got a bit confused on P2 and started way out left on the slab and traversed back in to the corner. Realised afterwards that it's P3, with the obvious flake, that you're supposed to start left on.

Astonishingly, was almost completely dry despite many other routes on the cliff seeping heavily from previous days' rain.

 
일요일 27번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Main Wall
6 Revolver Crack 전통등반 20m 좋음
Juggy and well protected the whole way.

 
토요일 26번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
Bushranger Bluff Back Wall
16 Rubbery Under Arms 전통등반 12m 좋음
토요일 26번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
Northern Group Kachoong Area
21 Kachoong 혼합 고전등반 25m, 1 완전 구식
15 Consolation Prize 전통등반 15m 좋음
Nice little warmup for Kachoong. Reachy start then eases.

 
일요일 13번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
12 Watchtower Chimney 혼합 고전등반 110m, 1 아주좋음
Lovely corner climbing on the first pitch, with some tricky laybacking in sections. Lots of loose rock in the bottom of the chimney, so decided stringing pitches 1 and 2 together wasn't a good idea. P3 is the chimneying, which felt a little run out, and thrutchy in parts. Overall probably much more serious at the grade than something like Bard.

Led P1, soloed P2, seconded P3-4 strung together.

 
일요일 13번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
Tiger Wall Area Tiger Wall Under Flinders Lane Wall
20 Surfacing 혼합 고전등반 88m, 4 아주좋음
Excellent, consistent slab climbing on P1 that keeps you on your toes the whole way, and would be thoroughly worthwhile even only as a single pitch to the lower-off. Fiddly gear, with a full range of nuts (mainly small to micro, with multiple sites being very handy) and some cams, mainly small to micro. Moving right to breach the final overlap at the bolt, only to move back left seemed a bit contrived, but is probably justified given that the more natural line would go through a huge jammed block which looks like it might one day come unjammed.

P2 starts easily, but the traverse right at the first bolt seemed harder than anything on pitch 1, and a sandbag at grade 19.

Led pitch 1 onsight, seconded up into Kestrel instead of P2 after leader escaped into it.

 
토요일 12번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
Atridae House of Atreus
17 Surface To Air 전통등반 30m 완전 구식
Had never noticed before, but there's a bomber micro-nut placement during the crux start, slotted in the top of a crack that runs down from the top of the feature with the short, right-facing corner finger crack.

 
토요일 12번째 8월 2017 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces The Watchtower
9 Arachnus 전통등반 110m 클래식
Led P1-2 as a mega, rope-stretching 60m pitch. Climbed left of the big crack on P2 to bypass another party, which felt grade 14-ish, but quite interesting climbing. From that belay to the top was only 30m, so 90m in total, well short of the 110m claimed height.

 
월요일 12번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Gully Organ Pipes Gully Right Side
16 Stentor 3rd Pitch 전통등반 12m 좋음
Soft for the grade, with the committing start probably being a factor in the grading. Initial gear is available before starting, but after that there's none until the obvious horizontal break (good small nuts), so you just have to go for it. Interesting climbing that's a little atypical for Arapiles, and quite nice, though would be better if it was longer.

 
월요일 12번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes Central Organ Pipes
15 Ejaculation 전통등반 50m 아주좋음
I was surprised at how in-your-face this was. (Sorry, was that a little too on the nose?)

ahem

Quite serious and sustained, and the first pitch definitely felt much harder than 14, involving technical and awkward flake climbing with fiddly gear. P2 needs big gear with one each of BD #3 to #4 or equivalent sized hexes being pretty much essential for the crescent crux section, which features a short but committing layback over slick, polished rock. After that, the chimney is awkward but relatively straightforward.

Done as one 55m mega-pitch.

 
일요일 11번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Bluff Major North Face
18 Preservative Added 혼합 고전등반 30m, 1 좋음
Sandbagged, runout, and sustained. Looked like there was gear most of the way up the initial crack, but it'd be difficult to get it in, and then there's a significant runout before the bolt, which included what I felt was the crux, traversing left to the slab under the bolt. Definitely harder than 18 (maybe 20, maybe 19?) and I definitely had no desire to lead this!

 
일요일 11번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
Bluffs Bluff Major Blockbuster Ledge
18 Scorpion 전통등반 30m 클래식
Amazing. The initial step across was easy (so much so that I did it four or five times), but the following moves to get your second foot over as well and move up into the chimney are trickier. (Shorter legs might make the initial step across harder, but the chimney less awkward.) You cannot take too many big cams on this climb, and would want at least one each of BD #3 and #4 for the crux fist crack in the middle, and another #4 (or maybe even #5) for the easier wide crack after the second pod.

 
일요일 11번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
Bluffs Flinders Lane Area
17 Scorpion Direct Start 전통등반 14m 좋음
Difficult but reasonably well protected, with a horrible off-width crux in the middle

 
토요일 10번째 6월 2017 - Arapiles
The Watchtower Faces Left Watchtower Face
15 Sundance 전통등반 140m 아주좋음
P2 and P4 are particularly good, and the gear isn't too bad on the latter. It's the start of P4 that is a bit runout, but only through easy climbing. Once you reach the big horizontal break, there's plenty of gear, but beware of huge loose blocks. Crux of this pitch is at the end of the traverse, with a slightly committing step left out of the break.

Led P2-4, joining P2 & P3.

 
일요일 4번째 6월 2017 - Werribee Gorge
Falcons Lookout Main Boardwalk
18 Golgotha 전통등반 30m 클래식
19 Hadrian Direct Finish 전통등반 12m 좋음
Fell from the upper crux when a foot slipped from the crack-smear, lightly brushing the ledge below before the rope went tight! Desperate pulling on a poor, super shallow hand jam to reach the fact hold at the end of the crux. Need to wear thinner shoes next time to allow toes to actually get in the thin crack there.

 
17 Conscientious Pontius 전통등반 13m 아주좋음
17 Conscientious Pontius 전통등반 13m 아주좋음
일요일 28번째 5월 2017 - Arapiles
Mitre Rock North Mitre
17 The Great White Hope 전통등반 35m 아주좋음
A dirty start leads to a fantastic bridging and jamming sequence through the crux roof crack. (Yes, jamming is essential.) After that struggle, it gets much easier, with the second roof being much less strenuous. Gear: thin-hand to wide-hand size cams for the first roof, a fist-size cam for the second roof, and good nuts available in between.

Got hit with a hail storm upon topping out!

 
14 Witch Hunt 전통등반 40m 아주좋음
Delicate and unprotected traverse start (though with double ropes you could place gear high in Penny Dreadful before the traverse), then lovely climbing up the corner above.

 
토요일 27번째 5월 2017 - Arapiles
Castle Crag
17 Swinging 혼합 고전등반 20m, 2 아주좋음
토요일 27번째 5월 2017 - Arapiles
Voodoo Area Voodoo Buttress
18 Voodoo 전통등반 65m 아주좋음
Early crux, just after the pitons, where everything that looks like it should be a good hold will turn out to be rounded and slippery! Eases a couple of grades after the traverse right is over. P3 is crazy but well protected, hauling on jugs and jams through a huge roof, and is well worth doing.

 
토요일 27번째 5월 2017 - Arapiles
Grotto Wall Area Pan Grove
16 Celeste 전통등반 25m 아주좋음
Old school grading - you'll want to be able to jam. Awkward and difficult start to the corner gets better as you get higher. Takes good passive gear, and then a BD C4 #2 size cam is very useful for the final loose hands crack.

 
일요일 21번째 5월 2017 - Summerday Valley
Tunnel Cliff
8 Eye Of The Needle 전통등반 25m 좋음
Very easy, with the hole probably being the crux. Bring a long sling for a big thread in the hole.

 
13 Sewing Machine 전통등반 20m 좋음
Very hard start for the grade, but well protectable. A big cam (fist size) is useful for the finish. Don't bother going all the way to the top of the cliff - rappelling from the All Stitched Up anchors is much more pleasant than the walk off.

 
17 All Stitched Up 혼합 고전등반 15m, 4 아주좋음
Nice and consistent climbing with a wild finish through the roof. The final bolt seems to be positioned way too far right though, with the most reasonably point to tackle the roof (especially at this grade!) being about a meter left of the bolt.

Only gear needed is 2-3 cams in the hand to fist range for the initial traverse.

 
일요일 21번째 5월 2017 - Summerday Valley
Bowler Boulder
18 Hit and Run 전통등반 13m 아주좋음
Hard work almost all the way, easing only at the final thin hand crack. Takes lots of micro to medium nuts, and micro cams are very useful in the middle crack which is flaring and difficult to get good nut placements in.

 
토요일 20번째 5월 2017 - Summerday Valley
Back Wall
17 666 전통등반 23m 좋음
A harder start compared to Overkill, with fiddly gear and a slight runout, but then a slightly easier finish. Small nuts and micro cams useful down low. Managed to get a #3 WC Helium Friend in a pocket above the ledge, but not many other cams of that size would be narrow enough (side to side) to fit there.

 
일요일 30번째 4월 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites Upper Pharos Gully
20 Bitchy and Itchy 전통등반 13m 평균
Super steep and very reachy up to the cave. Beware the first hold on the left side of the crack is actually a huge detached block which would do serious damage if it pulled off! After the cave is thin and fiddly gear, but easier climbing. Descent back and right past base of MOAFHG.

Rested on gear before figuring out the low crux.

 
19 Memoirs of a Fox-hunting Gentleman 전통등반 18m 아주좋음
Difficult, sustained, pumpy, and probably harder than 19. Climbs mainly on small flat edges with little opportunity for decent rest. Takes cams up to hand size, and lots of small nuts. Crux is a series of moves through a 3m runout which could possibly be lessened with RPs.

Fell on gear from the crux.

 
일요일 30번째 4월 2017 - Arapiles
The Pharos and Surrounds Pharos Gully Huey and Satellites
18 Huey 전통등반 16m 클래식

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