도움

Bad Moon Rising Wall

계절특성

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설명

The slabby streaked walls between 'Tribute Wall' and Van Dieman's Land. The routes and rock quality resemble Wall Of Fools at Summer Day Valley. The right side is home to several nice sport routes and the left has some of the best easy jug fests in the Grampians. Cliff faces into the sun until mid-afternoon. Routes described right to left.

© (nmonteith)

접근 문제들 Grampians으로부터 상속된

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

접근

1200m from carpark and 580m from 'Sandinista' Wall. 36.53.730s, 142.23.270e. Walk through the 'Tribute' Walls ravine, scramble down via worn tree and airy step-across to large open rocky platform. The cliff to the west (right) is 'Bad Moon Rising Wall'. If you continue along this rocky platform for 80m you will end up in the Van Dieman's Land Amphitheatre.

© (nmonteith)

하강시 주의점

Descent from the left side trad routes can be made via the double ring-bolts located on the ledge above Revenge Of The 'Chicken'.

© (nmonteith)

윤리문제 Grampians으로부터 상속된

Grampians / Gariwerd access issues have emerged (2019) due to potential risk to the environment and cultural sites. Climbers need to be aware that there are significant Aboriginal sites in the Grampians, especially in cave areas. Please take time to understand the access situation. Leave no trace and climb responsibly.

Please note that due to the fact that the Grampians is a National Park, dogs and other pets are not allowed in the park except in vehicles on sealed roads and in sealed car parks.

===Cliffcare Climber’s Code===

  • Find out about and observe access restrictions and agreements.

  • Use existing access tracks to minimise erosion - keep to hard ground & rock surfaces.

  • Do not disturb nesting birds or other wildlife.

  • Protect all native vegetation, especially at the base of cliffs. Wire brushing to remove mosses and 'gardening' in cracks and gullies is not permitted. Use slings to protect trees while belaying or abseiling if belay anchors are not provided.

  • Respect sites of geological, cultural, or other scientific interest. Do NOT develop new climbs in or near Cultural Heritage sites.

  • Chalk has high visual impact - minimise your use of it. Parks Victoria have requested the use of coloured chalk in Gariwerd.

  • Minimise the placement of fixed equipment, especially where Trad gear is available. Respect any "no bolting" areas.

  • Do not leave any rubbish - take it home with you.

  • Dispose of human waste in a sanitary manner (bury, or even better pack it out). Do not pollute water supplies.

  • Off-road driving is illegal in Gariwerd.

  • Keep campsites clean, and do not light campfires outside of official metal fire pits.

For more detailed information visit https://www.cliffcare.org.au/education

역사

History timeline chart

Surprisingly the harder routes were all but ignored for decades until Monty was researching a new online guide in 2005. A few weekends later and the area sprung from only two easy trad routes to quite a collection of nice midrange sport climbs.

© (nmonteith)

태그들

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Adam Demmert has his eye on this line. Might go at grade 24+

No bolt ladders here. Good fun jugging with good gear on good rock, may even be worth a second star? Start around 20m left of Bad Moon Rising's corner. Up the mega jugs on the left side of the smooth grey wall for about 15m, tending right up jugs to blank looking wall. Traverse left approx 5m until decent holds appear, straight up through gap heading right of small black chimney up face on good holds to top.

FA: Josef Goding & Eric Sidharta, 2007

Worthless sand climbing. Offwidth seam and crack on wall directly behind 'Raunchy Rooster' and near the tree scramble down descent from 'Tribute Wall'.

FA: Mick Jennings & James McIntosh, 1998

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arête, trying to avoid going too far left into the chasm. A hard move at top of arête leads up the wall above. Finish at double U-bolt anchor.

FFA: adam demmert & @cathdv, 2011

Link up of RRR into RITH 22/23 Start up RRR till top of Arete and a U bolt leads you off right past another bolt to join RITH at its last bolt. interesting slab climbing and a better way to do RRR.

FFA: adam demmert, 2011

A 27 slab.

FA: Kevin Lindorff, 2012

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

The prominent arete left of the 'Bad Moon Rising' corner with some amazing in-cut jugs. Climb the Bad Moon Rising corner for 5m, moving left onto the pedestal. Continue up the overhung face moving left around the arête, and follow the righthand crack to the top.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Jo Hugman, 2005

The landmark right facing leaning corner on the left side of the wall. The line looks good but the rock quality is fairly suss in many places. Bring a full rack.

FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1986

Direct line up juggy gritty slab. Starts 6m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' below light grey streak which ends at same finish as BMR. Up left side of grey streak to delightful short right facing thin flake at 1/3 height. Continue up on jugs to top.

FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005

The central buckety black streak. Take slings for bollards.

Start: Starts about 10m right of 'Bad Moon Rising' and 4m left of 'Headless Chickens'.

FA: Unknown's, 1980

A bit better than 'Bitten Finger'. 2m L of 'Bitten Finger'. Easily up orange patch to bulge, which is breached via a small crack/weakness with great gear and buckets. Headless chickenheads keep the slab above interesting. Take wires & small-med cams.

FA: Ben Cirulis & Will Monks, 2005

Slabby wall climb that is mostly trad. The first features left of the central blank section of the wall are two parallel orange overlaps. Climb the overlaps with pro on the left, to the crux bulge (BR). Follow the holds and gear up the slab above, staying just left of a small water groove. Takes wires, small-med cams and a bolt plate.

FA: Will Monks & Ben Cirulis, 2005

The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Climb Left of the bolts at the 1st and 2nd bolt. Traverse right when your hands are level with 3rd bolt (essentially the lowest possible traverse line).

Warning : if you choose to climb up high then traverse right (the higher traverse line) you may not be able to clip the 3rd bolt, as this bolt will be positioned below your feet. At this point you are facing a ground fall.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2010

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

FFA: adam demmert, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert, 2005

Elegant face route in a similar vein to 'Diazepam'. Start 2m L of the black streak. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off.

FFA: adam demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

FA: Adam Demmert & James Pfrunder, 2005

Clip first two bolts on Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak and up the orange headwall past a further 4 bolts.

FA: James Pfrunder, 2005

Best route on this wall. Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Start at rightwards arching undercling flake.

FA: Neil Monteith, Adam Demmert & Mike File, 2005

Linkup that starts as for Rage and Ruin then links across undercling flake past 1 bolt to join the Rooster.

FA: Kent Paterson, 2012

Start at the vertical seam and crimp like a fiend on the few edges that haven't yet been ripped off the wall. Follow the bolts to an exciting finale.

FA: Mike FIle, 2005

Face climbing with a mix of bolts and trad gear plus copious amounts of loose rock. Starts in the chimney at the far right side of 'Bad Moon Rising' wall about 10m right of 'Raunchy Rooster'.

FA: Josef Goding & Naomi Gibbs, 2007

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Steve Toal

일자: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 1 of the Central Grampians guide covers the North and East regions and features over 1400 routes spread over 124 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Steve Toal

일자: 2019

The Central Grampians Comprehensive Guide books are the most extensive climbing guide to the Grampians. With two volumes they cover the popular areas but also many of which have never been in print before.

Volume 2 of the Central Grampians guide covers the West and South regions and features over 970 routes spread over 55 crags. Painstakingly put together by Steve Toal, his guides have now become the go-to for climbers for the area.

Author(s): Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons

일자: 2016

ISBN: 9780646955544

"Australia's premier bouldering destination! The new 2016 Edition Grampians Boulder guide authored by Simon Madden, Ross Taylor, David Peason and Taylor Parsons. It contains more than 1300 problems which is double the original guide. Heaps of new information on established areas as well as the inclusion of plenty of boulders and crags not published before. It also features update idiot proof layout and expanded history and culture notes. Get one and start cranking!"

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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