Bicheno Guide

On the first buttress climb boldly up thin flake to a peg in the break, small cam also, then hard over bulge.

On the main area 50 metres further south along the trail, climb the hanging groove.

On the way up the track you'll pass a blank looking wall with a horizontal break at half height. Climb the centre of the wall via two poor #5 Rocks, and finish with trepidation.

On the west face of Lookout Rock itself is a L facing flake crack. Layback up this to a move R onto the slab. Up to a ledge and tree, then climb the final wall to the top.

On the R side of the north face, up the gully to the L of Economy Class Syndrome is a thin finger crack, with hard to place wires at the top.

This climb is located on the path, up to the lookout, on the L. There is a wall with a Flake/crack on the R side. Follow this to top. No recording of any previous ascent.

Sitstart on low hold, hit arete to the left and up

Project - Same start as Sperm Whale, blast high and right to side pull-ish feature and then up.

Sit - Up on Flakes

Sit start. Undercling and up

Stand - Flakes to high topout. SDS is a project

Sit - Classic steep arete to slopey topout on right hand end of boulder.

SDS

SDS. Pull through the shallow pockets to top out.

SDS

SDS

SDS

SDS

SDS - Layback off the buldge, pull up through the ridge.

SDS - Layback on the crack.

SDS 1 handed off the round arete hold, up through jugs. Can be campused for an extra grade.

About 3m right of Arete, find the large horizontal overhanging flake. Start underneath, work your way around and up to top out.

Stand start. Up the right side of the arete. Potential for sit start

Stand start.

SDS

SDS

Stand

Stand

Sit start on crimps and then up, classic Tassie test piece.

Stand start goes at around V5 from highest crimp and the big flake in the middle of the face.

On the backside of the boulder climb the left arete (ocean side) to the top. A great problem but scary at the start

Again on the backside of the boulder. Start in the scoop in the middle of the face trend right to jugs and follow jug rail traverse to summit.

Sit start on arete. Left hand in good low jug side pull and right hand on slopey face. Climb up and left. A spotter is nice

Left most slab towards the back then orange top out.

Easiest slab up the middle of the boulder, between My Brown Dog and Slab 1

Stand start the arete to the left of My Brown Dog, east and fun slab climbing

Sitstart and up crack

Stand start on the huge step and mantle the top of the boulder

Sit start the mantlepiece and mantle as for the stand

Sit start on two mediocre crimps with your right foot on the good shelf like protrusion, pull up and mantle the left end of the boulder

Stand start and mantle straight up

Stand start and mantle towards the right hand side of the boulder

Stand start 2m L of V5 on sloppers and mantle over top

V5, sit start about 1.5 metres left of left cleft. mantle onto the boulder from slopers.

Start on slopey protrusions at the base of the left cleft. Slap up and left to the lip and fight upwards.

Sit start side pulling on the furthest left side pull/crack feature to the right of Left Cleft. Top out straight up.

Sit start with left hand on good flake and punch up

Around right arete of boulder High Tide is on, pull on two slopey edges stand starting and mantle the boulder.

SDS - Pull up using crack and anything else, gain sloppy arete and then topout.

Sit start at next arete right using good flake with foot on good hold. Stand up to jugs and move slightly left to mantle

Heel hook start then up hanging arete. (SDS)

(Stand)

(SDS)

(Stand)

The next few problems are on the northern side of the boulders.

Arete in the centre. (SDS)

Flakes then up centre of block. (Stand)

(Stand)

There are a few easy slab problems in the crack in between the boulders. (Stand)

Sit start arête.

Sit start crack with LH crimp

Sit start with left facing flake.

Pull into undercling and up.

Sit start on flake and head up right.

SDS. Up on flake

SDS. Ugly first move leads to crimp and highstep. Best avoided.

Step onto hold/rock and head for the top.

Pull onto the face with a high foot.

Start on slopey rail and head up through more slopes.

Sit start art with LH and RH on arête.

Start in crack using right arete.

Sit start with both hands and feet on the arete, lay back your way up to top corner of arete then trend left not using the top of the boulder until you pass the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out to finish.

Sit down start matched on small crimp just above the obvious big undercling crimp, be smart with your feet then big move up with the right to the jug (or gaston crimp if your feeling like adding a grade), slap the top to the left of the ‘disconnected’ bloc then top out

Sit start using the big feature with your right hand and low down crimp with your left. Stand up trusting thin feet to your on the orange face, work your way to the two side pull crimps out left, then traverse your way along the face without using any of the top holds, once you pass the obvious crack, from there top out to finish

Stand start on two obvious sloppers above head height, punch straight up to mantle over lip

Start on good side pull + rail, up and left staying off the horn and corner system

On the next wall R. Up diagonal line.

The next crack/arete R of the diagonal line.

Stand stand on the good holds at head height and move upwards via good pockets.

Sit start with left hand in good sidepull and right hand in good incut at roughly the same height. Feet on good block below and make a big move to finish up Low Wall

Sit start the good flake and follow it up left, finishing up Low Wall

Sit start on the flake and head up and right over the slabby finish

Stand start on the good incut holds and head straight up

Sit start the main crack and top out straight up

Sit start the crack and head up to an easier finish over the lip

Stand start on good holds and head up via tricky lip section

Sit start on the pedestal and climb the crack feature to the top

Full traverse of the lip, right to left.

Hang start on the side pull jug jug and pull through to the top on slopes.

SDS. Up the corner.

SDS. Start on jug, up through slopes.

Pull up off thin slopes

SDS. Climb the steep left arete on pockets.

Pull up on flake and mantle over the top of steep face

Near left arete.

Up slab

SDS. Up flake.

SDS. Start as for previous problem, but move right through pockets.

Start in small depression, move up slab using underclings.

SDS. Up using undercling and crack.

Left side of slab.

Crack in middle of slab.

Right side of slab.

SDS. Use the undercling to the top, then head left.

In the middle of the back of the Grey Dog boulder, start down in hole, climb the nice flake.

Start a couple of metres right of Glory Hole off the blocks. Sitstart off sidepull, move L up face.

Easy cracks to R of previous problem

SDS. Diagonal crack left of arete

Start all the way left, almost around the corner on the point of the Boulder. Head rightward and top out over the highest point and as for “Jetty Shark.”

Sit start on pocket-ish crimp and left hand Gaston. Pull tension move to lip and mantle.

Sit start side pulling the crack. Straight up the via this crack and over.

Located on the small boulder behind the grey dog, SDS,Short Overhanging crack to mantle

From jug up left to flake and topout, to the left of Piece of Flake

up large flake to the left of Fish and Chips

arete and corner of south-east facing faces

From the curving crack pull up the face. V2 from standing.

Up face left of Soy Sauce, sit start is a project

Corner left of Abalone Arete

Sit start at the crack on the arete two metres left of hangman. Move left to big undercling flake on the arete and up.

Stand start the Crack left of Hangman

Sit start the north-west facing face using right hand pinch of the undercling on the face, pull up and gain short hanging crack. Stand start is V1

SDS - Crack in middle of north-west facing face.

Stand start about one metre left of right hand end of mort-west facing face.

Stand - Crusty right hand arete of north-west facing face.

Traverse the whole boulder via the top lip.

Project - stand start at Mullet and traverse leftward without using the top of the boulder to finish at Crab Stick

Start by compressing both slopey sides of the boulder, make a move and mantle of the highest part of the boulder

Sit start on the lip jug in the hanging corner to the right of Stingray, mantle the top

Climb the slabby face, very easy yet fun, great boulder problem for kids

Sit start the left arete of the orange face and slap your way to the highest point of the boulder and mantle

Sit start the right arete of the orange face using the slopers on the sea-facing side and slap your way to the highest point of the boulder and mantle, trickier than it looks

Sit start the slab on the ocean facing side of the boulder and mantle

Up jugs on face

Start dangling on slopers over void, throw left heel into groove and mantle into left roof hold, link up onto face

Start dangling on slopers just right of Craypot with feet dangling into void, then up through horn onto face and up.

Sit start L of crack, bomber but painful jam, layback and mantle.

Sit start up through cool weird features

As for 'The Crayfish' but eliminate the easy jug, burly undercling up to protruding corner and up.

Jump start then easy mantle

This problem is on a boulder to the north of Abalone Boulder - SDS and up jugs on overhung face.

Sit start as for Squid Rings, punch up and right and mantle over somewhat bad yet low landing

Sit start on the good rail around the corner of Squid Rings, pull on and gain the top of the boulder via a big move, then mantle

Stand start on the lip and mantle the centre of the face

Stand start on the good horn and mantle

Stand start the slopey lip and mantle

Step off huge flake onto wall, then mantle.

Step onto ledge and up the slabby face.

Start with hands on obvious jug then move up to lip and finish out whale lips. Could be easier

High step onto lip (hard part) then up the arete (easy part), hang start could also go.

Sitstart up little corner on left side of boulder

Easy featured slab, also the descent

Sitstart under arete, up on big jugs

Up face just right of arete. The thin sitstart might go.

Slab in middle of face. Sitstart might go.

Sitstart up arete to tricky slab

Start on high flat hold 1m right of arete. Up to flake and topout.

Sitstart in corner and follow ramp rightwards, then up onto ledge

Up arete from awkward sitstart

Beautiful featured face.

Start on hold under left side of roof. Don't use rock to the left.

Start on the right hand edge of the roof, traverse left and then up.

Face and mantle left of crack

Crack in middle of face. The sit start is a bit awkward. Grade is an estimate.1

Face using sidepulls.

Easy right arete

Arete

Crack

Sitstart to jugs

Traverse right to left along jugs

Project? - hard slab up arete

Hand crack

Sitstart on arete, up left

Sitstart on arete, go right then up

Nice crack in slab

Nice crack in slab. Can be done as a SDS

Start under little overhang, up and over.

Crack

Nice little arete

Project - start under arete on R of face, move left and up

Cracks up face

Jugs left of arete

Flake in middle of face, up to slab

High holds 2m right of flake, up to slab

Traverse jugs in either direction from corner to corner

Start a couple of meters left of arete on jug, pull up and mantle

SDS, up arete

Easy but exposed mantle stepping up through the eye of the whale.

Low sit start, follow crack feature to top out

Up blunt overhanging hard arete. Has a hanger at top and bottom for working. Very classic, potentially one of the harder projects in Tas?