도움

Far North Cliffs

계절특성

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설명

The Cliffs at the Northernmost end of the crag. Probably the reason you came here.

접근 문제들 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

접근

If accessing this area specifically, it's much faster not to go down via the far southern access gully and walk north along the bottom of the cliff. Instead, park at -33.5075, 150.2126 and walk directly west for 250m down to the gully at -33.5077, 150.2098. The carpark is 2.8km from Chifley Rd, and involves 2.2km of 4wd driving. The descent gully needs a fixed hand line of about 20m or so to do safely. Currently it's BYO (fix to a tree) though this may change in the future. Refer to the FAR NORTH CLIFFS Approach GPS Tracklog .

윤리문제 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

태그들

지역들

지역들 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집
성함
스타일
루트들
완등들
높이
등급들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

About 500m left from Climbing boom.

Start underneath small roof crack and corner, right of Coal Seam Crack. Crack to stance beneath fingercrack roof. Undercling roof to gain corner, then up corner to the top, with a vegetated topout.

Rap off tree to the right (facing in).

So named because Rob chipped his tooth whilst abseiling through the jungle trees shortly after the ascent.

FA: Rob Burton (L) & Alex Bergmann (S), 2012

FFA: Paul Thomson, 2013

20m left of COALgate smile, the obvious R facing corner with a super exposed off-width roof.

  1. 20m climb corner to stance beneath roof. Some dodey rock but pro is reasonable.

  2. 20m Aid through roof and crack above, and free up small offwidth section.

Rap off as for (COALgate smile).

FA: Rob Burton (L) & Jonas (S), 2012

20m further L from Coal Seam crack is this prominent line under a huge finger crack roof. Pitch 2 will blow your mind. A real classic. Bring a rack of cams 0.3 - 5, with doubles (or triples, if this is close to your limit) of 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 and 0.75. Wires are optional.

  1. 15m (19) - Crux. Climb the tight chimney come hand crack to ledge beneath roof (chimney needs a camalot #5).

  2. 30m (19) - Climb steep corner, traverse under roof, and continue up finger-crack headwall to ledge (many finger crack sized cams are needed). To reduce rope drag (caused by the rope dropping into the crack on the lip of the traverse), you may wish to set up a semi-hanging belay at the end of the roof traverse in Pitch 2 (requires #0.3, #0.4 and/or wires).

Stay roped up to traverse right and belay at the top of coal seam crack.

Rap off as for COALgate smile.

FA: Rob Burton & Morgan Huxley (alt leads), 2012

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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