도움

Lower Cliff

  • 등급표기: AU
  • 등정들 4
4
AU
23

계절특성

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

설명

Large orange cliff located below Ancient Mariner Buttress. This area involves rapping in to hanging belays and climbing back out again (the bottom of the cliff is either a blank cave or vegetated)

접근 문제들 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

접근

To get to the rap points walk down small track below Albatross for 30m to cliff edge and lookout. There are two rap points for the three identified routes - refer to topo. Don't mistake the slackliners ringbolts on the right arete (facing out) for the rap bolts.

하강시 주의점

2nd out - or if you have to bail abseil to ground and walk out right (facing the cliff) on old tourist track via Coxs Cave gully.

윤리문제 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

역사

History timeline chart

Info on these routes has been slowly erased from each generation of print guidebooks for some reason. For example, A Permanent Shiver appeared in the 2002 Pircher/Carter guide but disappeared in future editions.

태그들

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

Route has not been located. From 2002 print guide "Rap in from carrots down and right from Albatross. Up again past carrots and fixed hangers." This route may also require trad but it was not mentioned in the original write-up.

FA: Wade Stevens, 1996

The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds.

An exciting long subtle arete route which hasn't had a lot of love. Still totally climbable despite a bit of lichen here and there. Maybe the new bolts may lure a new generation? Fix a 50m rap rope from two U bolts set well back from edge above small corner. Rap down, (clipping into a few bolts as directionals) to a total hanging belay on single bolt and #2 Friend about 10m above the ground. The route is mixed and wanders a bit so you need at a double set of medium sized cams (0.5 to 3 Camelot) and a bunch of long runners. Rebolted 2020 - no bolt plates required anymore.

FA: L.Trihey, L.Korendyke & J.Smoothy, 1989

Absolutely worth the hassle of a rap in climb out route. Brilliant orange rock for most of the way and visible from above from right side of Ferris Cave. Added bonus - belay is from a small ledge - not a pain hanging belay like other routes here. Shares the same rap anchor as Pop the Question (two U-bolts above short corner) but rap straight down to small ledge (about halfway down the wall). Bizarrely bolted with a totally random mix of carrots and rings - so bring at least 8 bolt plates.

FA: M.Bennis, 2000

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

일요일 4 6월
무슨일이 일으나고 있는지 Lower Cliff 알아보세요.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文