도움

Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall

계절특성

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

접근 문제들 Mt Boyce으로부터 상속된

Jan 2017:

Access to Mt Boyce from Station St Blackheath: Vehicle access IS permitted by climbers to the Mt Boyce car parks 1 & 2

Access to Mt Boyce from Fairy Bower Reserve, Mt Victoria: Vehicle or walking access IS NOT permitted. Do not walk or drive on the maintenance track between Fairy Bower Reserve and the Mt Boyce climbing areas. Climbers approaching Mt Boyce from this direction are asked to walk on the footpath at the right hand side of the track which takes them down to the climbing areas.

This is an existing agreement made in 2003 after discussions with the council, SRC and other interested groups. We are reminded that this agreement may change due to risks to members of the public on the maintenance track alongside the increasing number of works projects planned for the tracks. This message comes as the first of a number of upcoming works projects between 18 Jan and 9 Feb 2018, commences. Sydney Trains ask all climbers to adhere to the original agreement for access to the maintenance track.

윤리문제 Blue Mountains으로부터 상속된

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

The line of FHs up the L side of the Afghan Wall face. Links up with Endless Pleasure in a Limousine just beneath the overhang and shares the same anchors. Unfortunately for the last 15m it is a retrobolt of Atlantis.

FA: unknown

The line of ringbolts at the initials "AW". Almost this entire route is a retrobolt of Afghan Wall. Links up with Sweet Seduction in a Magazine just beneath the overhang. WARNING: the ringbolts are not recessed.

FA: G Oliver & J Corkins

Start: Start 9m right of A at initials "AW".

  1. 23m (14) Up wall to belay 6m below ledge on orange wall. This has now been retrobolted with about 1000 shitty rings.

  2. 40m (14) Left, up to second ledge. Right 9m, then up on black wall.

FA: P.Jenkins & R.Lassman, 1967

4m right of Afghan Wall. Gear, BR's and FH's.Thru roof at top.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

3m right of WOMD nearly at KO start. gear and BR's and FH's

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Start: 5m right again.

FA: A.Penney & J.Smoothy, 1984

Start: 3 - 5m left of the corner.

FA: A.Penney & D.Magro, 1985

Start: The corner. 2 pitches.

FA: G.Owens, J.Wilson & L.Muzzatti, 1967

Traverse!

Start: To CC belay. Traverse right to finish up Shisenhousen.

FA: P.Webber & M.Moore, 1979

Start: As for AA to top of pedestal then to top.

FA: McMahon & Stallery, 1977

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

FA: G Short & W Williams

2m left of FITG. Batman start to jugs and FH's and BR's to Girl in The Mirror end. At least 9 bolt plates required.

FA: Glenn Short/Pam Mort

Very hard undercut start for 22 - best to batman to first bolt. It's grade 20 past this to top - numerous old bolts.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

1 22
2 15
  1. Pitch 1 (**22) is sport, 4 rings to DBB. Highball boulder problem to the first bolt, stick clip if not up to it!

  2. Pitch 2 is trad 15, with one carrot at the top. Most people skip pitch 2 and step R to do Mean Streak pitch 2 instead.

FA: J.Smoothy & A.Penney, 1984

Links the best parts of 2 routes and makes for one of the best at the grade in the Bluies. Pitch 1 of The Girl in the Mirror, then Pitch 2 of Mean Streak and finish for the 22. It can easily be linked into a single pitch with a few longer draws. The second may hit the ground if they fall off with rope stretch. There are two rusty carrots at the end of the pitch 1.5m to the left of a single bolt. If choosing to climb as two pitches you would be better off using a cam with the single bolt to build an anchor over the rusty carrots. Triple FH's at top. Rebolted 2018.

The next 4 routes start from a ledge about 5m above the ground and 2m right of Girl in the Mirror. Scramble up to it from the start of Girl in the Mirror. There is a single Ubolt to belay off in the middle of ledge, directly below the start of Mean Streak.

1 20 25m
2 21 25m

Great second pitch. When combined with 1st pitch of GitM you have a 3 star classic.

Start: Start 10m right of GitM.

  1. 25m (20) Lots of rambling, rolling and mantling. Not classic but is apparently worth doing. Trad and carrots.

  2. 25m (21) Up black streak. Mostly bolts but there's an optional small cam down low, plus a medium cam and wire up high to avoid an 8m runout to the final carrot.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1984

Mega mixed affair. Shared start with Mean Streak for 8m then direct up the orange wall. The upper half of this route takes the prime central streak of orange rock and the hanging prow above, so it's gotta be good! Take heaps of cams, including doubles of #3 and #4 Camalots and many slings. The route bails left into Mean Streak, up for 2m then back right into the line again in the middle section. Rebolted 2018.

FA: G.Child, A.Prehn & J.Smoothy, 1989

Start: As for FH, then left to black streak and up.

FA: J.Smoothy & G.Child, 1989

Start: A few metres right of GitM. On ledge at big block.

  1. 27m (-) Up right to ledge on left of pedestal below arete.

  2. 14m (19) Up right 3m and up below semi-circular overhang. Left to cave then up to belay.

  3. 18m (-) Left then up and out.

FA: J.Worrall & R.Lassman, 1967

Start: 9m right of FH.

  1. 9m (10) face to ledge.

  2. 24m (10) Wall & corner, right to ledge. Up tending right to stance.

  3. 35m (10) Up right to top.

FA: G.Owens & M.Clarbourgh, 1967

Start: Corner & chimney 30m right.

  1. 40m (13) Take the line. 6m left at top. Then slab to tree belay?

  2. 15m (13) Left and up.

FA: J.Croker, 1974

Start: V groove with chockstone.

FA: J.Ewbank & J.Fantini, 2000

Start: Corner 12m right of TG.

  1. 37m (14 M1) Corner to loose block.Aid roof.

  2. 6m (14 M3) Aid crack then free to ledge.

  3. 18m (14) Crack.

FA: W.Williams & R.Vining, 2000

Start: 9m right again.

FA: B.Postill & P.Edwards, 1972

알고 계십니까?

귀하가 등반한 등정들의 기록, 추적 그리고 공유할 수 있는 계정을 만들 수 있다는 것을 알고 계십니까? 수천명의 등반가들이 이미 이런 일들을 하고 있습니다.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

사진들 모든 사진들 훑어보기

지역의 사진을 업로드하세요

일요일 14 5월
무슨일이 일으나고 있는지 Afghan/Girl in the Mirror wall 알아보세요.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文