등정들 Stateline Gully에서

Dirty and no pro

Depressingly Bluies: Easy once you abandon the pure crack ascent

nice jams, couple of sits in first half

took a while to work out sequence and placements to mini-rooflet (my 3rd piece) then retreated as the sun was basically at the horizon

Launch off miraculously unburnt tree 3m up onto wall past broken holds, hollow-sounding flake and 3 rusty carrots. Not 15m and not necessary.

Perfect clean 30-35mm crack too small for hands and too big for finger locks with clean edges aplenty. Way out of my current leagues so dogged it via edges with occasional jam as the new breed will no doubt do.

Could only see 2 cam, 1 sling and 2 poor bush runners before the somewhat desperate 15?.headwall topout 3m above a ledge. Toprope if you must!

Easy to avoid the depths via juggy no-pro arete on toprope. Corner crack not much harder than Abel!

Not too bad, but more 15 than 12 in the modern parlance. Crack still clean after 42 years.

Great little trad corner with clean dry crack and good ledges and edges. Even a hard move down low!

Lovely. Nice runout to the top. Maybe i wasnt looking hard enough for pro just enjoying the jugs

Not sure how this counts as climbing out of the crag when you have to descent back down into the gully from the back of the block you top out on. Do we get style points for doing it in approach shoes?

The crux was building a top anchor that wasn't terrible

Weirdo pseudo-semi-symbiotic simul-solo: he did the arms while I did the legs. Hardest bit might have been going past Crunch's old house, except I can't remember which one it was. Got off route turning left into Waratah past Vinnies and topped out after a gnarly crux on bad tar at Woolies.

Whazzat, you mean there's a climb called Lurline Street? I was talking about the real one, with Macca on the wheels and me on the handles. Phreak out - what a trip, gag me with a spoon!

Touchstone more like "Touchwood I can climb 19s" hehe

Got too pumped, crimps much worse than remembered and still can't work out how to jam it

Just annoyed now

Great climbing, not in a hurry to lead it though. We only found 2 carrots too

Quite run out on quality rock with good holds. Don't exit down Stateline Gully as the ground and rocks are exceptionally unstable after the rain. Exit between Camerons Crest and Memory Lane.

After Cedric sent on my gear, too hot to lead it again

Some more 0.75s and the ability to jam that size would have been nice... eventually realised you can just about do it all by pulling between crimps and thin hands pods but had already fallen off by then 😆

This was a very exciting route with spicy moves straight off the ground. I worked very hard for the onsight. I found the crux dyno to the sloping scree ledge very difficult especially with the 60L pack. By this stage I was cooked so decided to setup my portaledge from a branch about 5cm in diameter, charred and poorly wedged amongst a myriad of loose scree in order to replenish my seriously depleted energy levels.

I have to admit that setting up my Whisperlite on the portaledge is not without controversy especially when my hair caught fire and I had to use the last of my water to extinguish myself. Replenishing my energy levels was now challenging but I managed to extract some sustenance by licking some honey out of a native bee hive on the ledge.

I hadn't managed to replenish my energy to an optimum level and so I had now developed a slight wobble in my left leg and a twitch in my right eye. By now I had no choice but to abandon the portaledge and climb the unprotected slab. Luckily I had some blobbies and bashies and so I was able to aid up the last few metres.

This was one tough customer of a climb and despite the loss of my portaledge I really loved the route nonetheless.

Pool your green cams for this one. Small hands were also definitely an advantage. The crack is a bit dirty in some places but overall a nice, compact route

This was awesome! Liked it a lot. My hardest trad onsight to date. Ringlocks were quite bomber! Used many a green cam (in the realm of 4) could almost be climbed without any other colour.

Really fun but definitely not a gimme. Some big moves on small crimps for the grade.

Great! Highly recommended.

Good moderate trad climbing for the Blue mountains. Too bad it's so short.

Good until vegetation and dirt halfway up crack.

Thin and hard

Really fun steep moves out of the roof, but sparse gear and crap rock all the way up

Sent a toaster sized block down with a slight nudge, inches from my belayer, battled ferns for holds, pulled into the cave using a terrifying compacted dirt block, and bailed by rapping down around the pillar. The crack on the headwall actually looks quite nice but I’d used up all my fear factor already.

nicola went first and perfected the gear beta, and then i got to climb w the lightest rack of my life thus far

interesting climbing on good gear.

some tough moves down low followed by much easier climbing up high that gets a bit run out on carrots.