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Sunny Bay
Tropical seaside granite bouldering! The area is also referred to as Second Beach, and False Cape Battery. |
The Fish Bowl
A good cluster of boulders on the fringe of the scrub and the ocean. |
The Fish Bowl |
V2
★ Scale rail
Start on low crimps, up to crimp rail, mantle lip |
V1
Down on the frown
Sit start under overhung face with L on small slopey edge, R on obvious good hold. Pull up onto LH face and up spine |
V0
Shark shit
Shit and easy warm up. Sit start LH sidepull, RH on arete. |
V2 to V3
★★ All fun, no lungs R
Starts as for AFNL L. Move LH to tooth and move delicately up and R via reachy moves to slopey gaston rail and high, good crimp. |
V1
★ All fun, no lungs L
Sit start on side pull. Move RH to small blunt tooth, L to good edge and up via slopey rail. |
V1
Gill Thrill
Stand start with obvious edge (Careful, weak?). Head directly up slab to easy topout. |
V5
★★★ Carcharodon
Sit start matched on low side pull. Pull a big move out to slopey edge, keep tension to match and continue up blocky 'teeth' features to top out on arete. |
V2
★ Carcharodon (Stand start)
Stand start on blocky sloper/jugs at head height. Up blocky 'teeth' features to top out on arete. |
V7
★★★ Belly of the Beast
Sit start (may need to stack a pad) under clean overhung face, compressing on wide pair of small edges. Move up compression moves to good blocky feature and finish as for Carcharodon. |
V4
★ Campbell's a C@#t
Sit start on the obvious blocky feature to the right on the overhung face. Make a long and tricky move up to flake before finishing up on good holds. |
V6
★★ Beast Boy
Sit start on the obvious blocky feature with a good crimp, move up and left through small crimps to finish as for The Beast. |
V4
★★ The Beast
Sit start on low flake with incut L crimp and R edge. Move up slightly overhung face on edges to blocky gaston/sidepull and into jugs out R for an easy mantle to a blank slab top out. To save pulling the plants out to find holds for the slab, just step amongst them to reach the top. |
V3
★★★ Toadfish Rebecchi
Sit start on good undercling up to flake (Careful, makes noises...). Continue directly up over bulge with high LH sloper and RH side pulls. |
V2
★★ Steph Scully
Start as for TR. From the flake head left into LH side pulls and using RH high sloper. Finish up L side of bulge. |
V4 to V5
★★ Dole Bludger
Start with obvious R hand side pull feature and L low in the slopey scoop. Up the roundness on sidepulls and small slopey crimp to a blank, rounded top out. |
V3
★★ Tall tales
Crouch start with LH on obvious sidepull, RH low on R slopey arete. Compress and move up to spine, LH to further slopers and up to jugs. High but easy top out. |
V3
★ The porpoise of life
Sit start at base of L trending crack. Traverse L along slopers to LH end, mantle to finish. |
V0
Global Warmup
Nice easy warm up. Traversing L to R along good holds on top of boulder. Top out at highest point. |
V3 to V4
★ Coallateral Damage
Squat start on good jug flake on right end of face. Traverse left along the crack on slopey underclings, before heading up in middle of face. |
V1
★ Clinging to Coal
Squat start on good jug flake on right end of face. Directly up. |
V7
★★★ Original oyster
Highball boulder located up the hill behind Tall Tales and Clinging to Coal etc. Sit start side pulling good right hand edge, and left hand on vague features in the dihedral. Compress your way up through the crimp rail to gain the obvious lay back feature and follow into a highball topout. |
V1
Chum
Sit start on blocky triangular feature and climb straight up. |
V3
★ Lowburl
Sit start matched on good diagonal edge, up through big hold out left and edges above. |
V5
★★ Decompression sickness
Start matched on diagonal edge as for above, gain the right arete with interesting moves and compress your way up the feature. |
V3
★★★ Fits the billfish
Sit start at base of sloper rail. Semi mantle and reach up high and R to sidepull/undercling. Move up and L through shallow rounded jugs to good edge and top out around corner. A high and alternate finish project is to continue up the arete. |
V2
★ Breaching
Sit start on pair of slopers. Move up slopey arete and make a leap up to the lip. Obvious block is in for feet. |
V7
★★ Ripped Nips
Sit start on pair of jugs at base of arete. Obvious block is OUT. Move up arete using RH sloper rail and LH sidepulls, big move to good edge to top out. |
V4
★★ I Don't Like Sport Fishing
Sit start in middle of overhung face on crimps and small underling/sidepulls. Make a large move up to lip and high jugs. Top out with good jugs and sidepull. Best descent from boulder is downclimbing here and jumping off, otherwise commit to climb down the slab on the R. |
V0
★ Esea
Easy on good holds. |
V4
★ Trev the Trevally
Sit start match on jug on far right end of obvious crack. Traverse out L, staying low, following line of holds in weakness to slopers at the arete. Directly up arete and over the bulge to top out. |
V2
★ No Take
Easy sit start on L arete using sidepull and good ledge. Up arete on sidepulls to jug and tricky sloper topout. Dyno Alternative: Dyno from ledge to high jugs without arete sidepull. |
V3 to V4
★★ Save the Reefer
Sit start on edge on L side of face. Move up and across with a wide span into R arete. Up arete on sidepulls and crimp to a slopey finish. |
V3
SeaSide Slopes 1
Sit start on slopey edge. Head R and continue up arete to highest point. |
V2
SeaSide Slopes 2
Sit start on slopey edge. Head R to arete and mantle onto face. |
V2
★★ Sink or Swim
It's a long way to sink from the top, so don't fall... Start on block in corner on obvious jugs. Climb up following the good holds up the L leaning, overhung corner to jugs at the lip. Mantle for an exposed and high top out! Beautiful climbing, great holds, awesome feature, obvious stand out line and the perfect amount of spice with the height and dodgy landing make for an instant classic! Descend by down climbing features to the L of the climb (okay but intimidating) or have a rope thrown over to rap off. |
V3
★★★ Afterglow
Start at base of corner on awesome jugs. Move up and right through good layback holds to smaller hold below lip. Commit to the crux move gaining the finishing jug in the crack, over the lip, and mantle onto shelf. Landing is surprisingly better than it first appears. Descend as for Flake It 'Till You Make It. |
V3
★★★ Surprise Party
Sit start at base of arete with good undercling. Follow series of large underclings and jugs before hitting the crimp rail on the clean face and topping out directly above. |
V2 to V3
★★ Flake It 'Till You Make It
Sit start at base of obvious flake with good sidepulls for both hands. Follow feature up to break and continue up dislodged block to finish on large shelf. Safest descent is to downclimb a little and jump. Scary alternative is to head left around bulge onto slab and descend as for Sink or Swim. |
V4
★★ Fractured
Crouch start on larger sidepulls, low in the weakness. Follow cracks up with series of small sidepulls before moving into the good undercling on the R and hitting the break. Finish up as Flake It 'Till You Make It. Descend as for Flake It 'Till You Make It. An obvious lower start is yet to to be added. |
V4 to V5
★★ Coming up for air
Stand start matched on jugs on far right end of obvious weakness at base of arete. Traverse left along rail to end of good holds. Blast around the lip off of the sharp crimp to gain jugs on slab (crux). Continue up the easy slab and traverse R along jug rail to top out with some great exposure and horrible landing below. Descend by down climbing features to the L of the climb (okay but intimidating) or have a rope thrown over to rap off. |
V3
★ Going Where No Mangroves
Start low, right under the bulge on rounded jugs. Punch up with reachy moves through to good blocky corner, sidepull and high edge. Walk off at break or continue up easy slab for some exposure. |
V0 to V1
★★ Slab on the Back
Start on high and obvious sidepull flake with interesting rock. Head up slab with good holds and pleasant climbing to top out on spine of boulder. Descend to the L with care. |
V3
★ Laidback
Sit start at base of corner. Move through to layback crack features to gain series of ledges. Continue up and trending R with small sidepull crimp and high rounded crimps with delicate and balancey moves. Find the hidden jug and finish up the high but easy slab. Careful of lose rocks. |
V5
★★★ Bulbous
Starting low, matched on the obvious corner jugs in seam, move through the underclings to climb the slopey, bulbous arete. |
V2
★★ The Rising Tide
Great traverse with a gritty hand jam for the crux move and then an easy top out. Definitely needs a pad and a good spotter. Start as low as possible in the rightwards rising crack on the lower block and move up right. |
V2
★ One-derous Movements
Start off the jug underneath the overhanging prow and reach back for the lip, crank through and top out. Climb down via the crack to the left and drop down onto the block. |
The Easterlies
A smattering of boulders and short crags on the Eastern side of False Cape |
The Easterlies |
Upper Easterlies
A small but concentrated cluster of boulders tucked up on the hillside, below the abandoned 3 story building. |
The Easterlies Upper Easterlies |
V1
2. a)
Sit start on flake arete. Move up along good holds, heading slightly left, to top out at highest point. |
3. a)
Sit start on rail. Move directly up with LH sidepulls and holds on R arete. Continue over bulge into the blankness. |
3. b)
Start as for a). Move up and onto RH face, following obvious line of holds up and traversing R. |
V0
4. a)
Sit start on jug on arete. Up through good holds. |
V3
★ 4. b)
Start sitting with crack in middle of face. Gain the large ledge up and L. Traverse L along ledge to arete before finishing up as for a). |
4. c)
Obvious crack line in middle of face with a sit start. Good holds all the way to a fairly tall topout. |
V2
★★ 4. d)
Sit start on obvious zig zag crack. Climb up and R, before topping out with the awesome but hidden jug. |
V0
★ 5. a)
Sit start on jugs on arete. Up through good holds |
V2
5. b)
Sit start on blocky sidepulls. Up through to L slopey ledge and finish as for a) |
V3
★ 5. c)
Sit start on blocky sidepulls. Up through compression moves, directly up to topout. |
V2 to V3
★★ 5. d)
Start matched on ledge. head up following corner to a blank slab top out. |
V2
★ 5. e)
Sit start on good edges. Move up and over bulge where holds become minimal. |
The Easterlies |
Lower Easterlies
A collection of boulders scattered along the shoreline of the eastern side of the point. The area, while lacking in density, provides some quality problems worth the walk. |
The Easterlies Lower Easterlies |
V3
Launch Spot
Stand start matched with side pulls on right side of arete. Launch to the lip and top out, being cautious of weak rock. |
V6/7
★★★ The Eastern Outlook
Sit start on pair of low undercling jugs in middle of face. Traverse out right along obvious horizontal rail to gain the right arete. Trend slightly left to gain edges over lip, before heading up and right to top out. Falling from above the lip is likely to land you in the ankle breaking pit behind, be careful. Found just on the uphill side of the Understing boulder. |
V5
★ Understing
Sit start low, matched on shallow undercling. Bust up to sloped edge, continuing up through nice rounded holds. |
V6
★★ Geomorph
Sit start matched on right hand side pulls in seam. Span out to gain the left arete and compress your way up the slopers. |
The Friends Boulder
Large boulder next to track (still easily missed!) with some good slopey features. Potential for some harder problems. |
The Friends Boulder |
V4 to V5
★★★ Dergonals
Sit start on obvious jug and side pull. Move up to slopey crimps, head L along sloper ledge, drop onto lower L sloper ledge. Continue to end of rail then up to top out at bulge. A stand start from the middle sloper ledge below the bulge makes for a nice V2ish problem. |
V4 to V5
★★★ Slippy Dance
Alternative direct finish to Dergonals. Start as for Dergonals but instead of dropping into and continuing along lower sloper edge, head up to top out on right side of bulge. |
V5
★★ Patience
Sit start on jugs as for Backstab. Traverse right along sloper ledge. Dyno to edge up high and R. Continue R along series of holds to top out as for Dergonals. |
V4 to V5
★★ Patience (Stand Start)
Stand start on RH end of sloper ledge. Dyno to edge up high and R. Continue R along series of holds to top out as for Dergonals. Alternative direct topout not yet tried. |
V4
★★★ Backstab
Get low and comfy up close to the rock. Sit start on good diagonal edge and jug. Make a long move up high and L to perfect, slightly sloped, flat edge. Mind you don't get backstabbed by the rock behind you! Continue up to flat edge on lip and mantle using slopers and crimp/sidepull out back and R. |
The Stand Alone Boulder
Easy access, great spot, nice boulder. Aesthetic, triangular and slightly steep face and blunt arete |
The Stand Alone Boulder |
V4
★★ Stand Alone
Stand start matched on crimp in middle of obvious, slightly steep, triangular face. Head up and R to jugs on arete via crimp rail. Follow arete up and L to top out at peak. |
V3
Together
Sit start at base of RH arete on sidedulls. Follow the blunt and slopey arete up and L to jugs, continuing along arete to top out at peak. |
The Fig Tree
(Locked gate, now private property? Can still access by walking along beach) A 4wd or vehicle with decent clearance is recommended (otherwise walk in turns from 20m to 900m (still easy walking)). This land was purchased by a developer in 2013. There is an open gate at the start of the track and no restriction to access. Ensure the track is clear for other vehicles to pass as other fishers, 4wder etc. use this area. Old WW2 batteries at the end of track at False Cape are heritage listed, please respect these. And of course, be a decent person and take all of your rubbish home. |
The Fig Tree |
★★ The Fig Tree Project
Sit start, up through crimps. Try not to break your back on the fig tree. |
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