접속점 |
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North Wangetti
Stunning beach bouldering along the Captain Cook Highway north of Wangetti and south of Oak Beach. Hard and intermediate climbing, some high balls, mostly granite boulders. |
The Breakwall
A roadside crag with a smattering of good boulders along a 400m stretch of coastline. |
The Breakwall |
The most northern problems of this area. About 80m north of the northern carpark.
The most northern problems of this area. About 80m north of the northern carpark. |
35
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
36
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
The Plunge Boulder
The boulder nearest to the northern carpark, only 20m south along the beach. |
V2
★★ Long Days
Sit start on the rock and hang off the long rail under the tiny rooflet, slap over the top and mantle out. |
V3
★ Mens Plunging Necklines
Sit start off the two jugs down left on the arete and trend right onto slopers and mantle out. |
V1
★★ Smeared It Like On A Bagel
Stand start with hands on the positive rail and smear feet, head straight up the face. |
V0+
★ Repetitive Naming Trends
Sit start with hands in the crack and follow this until topping out |
V0
★ Stand For What You Want
Stand start on the face and smear and balance to the top. |
The Overlook Boulder
Beside the Plunge Boulder and a little closer to the water. |
V1
★ Quartz Of A Gallon
Sit start using the parallel cracks and follow up to the tallest part of the boulder. |
V2
★★ Quartz Faceplate
A tricky sit start at the base of the quartz plate following up the flake and over the top. |
★★ 6
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
The Shard
Small standalone boulder 10m south from the Overlook Boulder |
7
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
8
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
Short Stops |
VB+
Easing It Out
Start sitting on the right of the triangle, and follow up the arete over the top point. |
V0-
Faced With A Problem
Sit start near the arete and follow up the face then mantle over. |
V1
Mantle Pliz
Hang off the large flat ledge, throw a leg up and pull over. |
Bulging Battle Boulder
The distinct large boulder with a few hard lines still yet to be completed. |
9
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
V1
★★★ Line Of Fine
Would've made a great hard technical crack line if it wasn't for all the jugs in it. Still a great problem though! Sit start below the quartz streak on the jugs on the small arete and follow the obvious line up the crack. Walk off to the left where the back of the boulder meets the road. |
V2
★★ Meet And Bind
Sit start under the small roof on the short arete. Pull up following the rounded flake and then join into 'Line Of Fine' |
12
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
13
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
V4
★★★ If It's Raining, Don't Go Draining
A strange and tricky start leading to some technical slab work. Sit start using the slopey flake to the right and the triangular block to the left and slap to the lip and pull over onto the slab. |
Angles Of Triangles Boulder
A lone boulder near the waterline about 50m South from 'The Bulging Battle Boulder' |
V2
★ Gaining Mounds
Sit start with hands on the crimps and smearing feet, use the flake to stand up and gain ground and hit the top and pull over. |
★ 16
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
17
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
18
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
Embiggens Block
Classic Simpsons reference. Best accessed from the Middle Carpark which puts you only metres from this giant block with a good mix of grades. 220m south from 'Angles Of Triangles Boulder' |
19
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
20
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
★★ 21
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
V0+
★★ A Noble Smear Embiggens The Smallest Human
Wander up the face just right of the corner. Will keep you thinking the whole way. |
V1
★★ Base-Jumping Geckos
Stand start around the corner from the long arete. Head straight up the face on the crimps while balancing your way through |
Crushed Grunt Block
A distinct boulder with a single distinct compression line. 50m south from the Middle Carpark |
V5
★★★ Feed Me Beta & Call Me Strong
Sit start underneath the overhanging face and grab both the aretes then throw for the top, as simple as that really. |
Smashed Sub Boulder |
25
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
26
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
27
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
34
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
Playing The Jungle Game Blocks
A corner of two blocks offering a few lines with a small cave between them. Best accessed from the Southern Carpark. |
28
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
29
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
The Meeting Boulders
40m South from the Southern Carpark with a few easier lines. |
30
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
V1
★ Bored Meetings
Sit start with the large flake at the bottom right, and go from this trending left to the top. Harder than you'd expect when first looking at it. |
Dropped Pie Boulder
The most southern boulder of the whole area. 170m south from the Southern Carpark. |
V1
★ Rip Off The Crust
Sit start hanging off the ledge, and just mantle over, as simple as that. |
V0+
★ Puffy Pastries
Sit start using the horizontal break and follow it left and over the top. |
Pretty Beach
Beautiful and scenic beachside bouldering with relatively easy access. |
Pretty Beach |
Northern Retreat
Covering all of the blocks and spots north of the northern carpark. Until recently largely unexplored. Plenty of new and undiscovered routes here with a great variety of styles for many climbers. A lot of the problems can be wet at high tide but this still leaves half the crag left to climb! Routes are listed South to North from the carpark as you walk to them. |
Pretty Beach Northern Retreat |
V2
Crocs Nipping At My Ankles
Hanging with one hand jamming in the vertical break under the lip and the other on any of the nearby jugs throw up from here to follow up the weakness to the top. |
V2
★ Moving Onto Campus
Hanging off the horizontal break to the far right, follow it left and then up the weakness to top out. First half makes for a great campus problem. |
V1
Pyramid Head
Stand start at the head height triangle, grab the jugs, smear a lot and go on up |
Large boulder up the hill in the scrub behind DREAMS AND SEAMS BOULDER. Holds potential for some rea
Large boulder up the hill in the scrub behind DREAMS AND SEAMS BOULDER. Holds potential for some really hard problems for those dedicated enough to clean them up! |
V5
★★ Coccyx
Sit under cave roof - left hand sloping pinch feature on arete, right hand slot edge in cave. Be mindful of mud wasp nests. Move out through steepness to find footing to get onto slab. With an array of holds, work upward to topout central. |
V5/6
Magical Monday
Direct finish to Coccyx. Move straight up through fingery holds. A hold broke, potentialy harder now. |
V5
★★ Bullied, Beaten, Scarred and Scathed
Sit start under the 45 degree face to the left of the tree. Use the flat edge right and either of the two left sidepulls, hit the flat ledge above and mantle out. Easily recognisable due to the large rock scar in the middle of the face. |
V5
★ Weaver Tribunal
Tree-rest-start with left hand edge at roof lip, right hand lower minger, and low feet. Pull on, work to pocket, then upper slopers before grovelling through the mantle without dabbing the tree. Top up and right. |
Dreams And Seams Boulder
A great looking standalone boulder with plenty of line options. |
V2
★★ Polka Bear and Get Bitten
For the grovelling traverse addicts amongst us. Get right down between the two boulders, hands in the pocket where the seam turns over the edge, then following along the lip doing the polka until you get to the arete then top out. |
V2
★ Ziggy & The Bugs In My Headtorch
Sit start just behind the arete with hands on the flake. Punch out left to the slopers and whale out. The left hand variation to |
V2
★ Torched Heads Burn Bright
Sit start behind the arete with hands on the high flake, punch around to the right hitting the slopey ledge and mantle through this, keep an eye on the boulder behind you when topping out. |
V2
★ Corn Eared
Grab the triangle undercling from a sit start, 'mantle' onto the face, then use the crack until you top out. |
36
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
35
Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers. |
V0+
★ Folding Molasses
Sit start at the rounded arete, follow up using jugs and slopes until on top. |
V0+
★ Trick Or Treacle
Sit start with the flake on the face and use whatever you can find to get up on top. Many different ways of doing this, so have fun with it! |
Wall Of The Weird Block
The north facing overhanging block a small distance along from 'Dreams and Seams' Boulder |
V2
★ Railing Ruts and Respecting Women
Sit start in the wedge of the rocks at the base of the large flaring crack, hit the jugs on the way up, top out and tell your mum how great she is. |
V5
★ Clinging On To Sweet Death
Start seated at the bottom of the corner with hands in the juggy undercling. Using the arete and the undercling slot get to the top and make the easy mantle over the angle change onto the headwall slab. |
V1
★ Tal-Cling Highly Of You
Grab the high undercling from a stand start, smearing feet to the left and head up left of 'Clinging On To Sweet Death' |
V4
★★★ Pinching And Yawning
Crouch start with hands in the crack near the tip of the triangle on the face. Go up from here onto the slab and top out. |
V1
★ Point Baked
Sit start in the short corner, using the left arete and the corner crack go up following the crack and up the weakness to the top. |
V1
★★ Round The Twist
It was a very weird show. Stand start with hands in the thin horizontal break and go straight up the slab. |
The Man With The Van With The Plan Boulder
Unnecessarily long name for a small boulder. Sits in the scrub just slightly up the hill. |
V0
Runaway Van
Sit start at the ocean side arete of the block, pull up and traverse left until you can step around the next arete and onto the boulder. |
V0+
Arete Vandals
Sit start with hands on the big ledge, one or two moves and you'll be at the top. |
The Living Room
The natural small amphitheatre that holds the majority of the problems in the middle of the sector. A nice place to chill out and watch the waves and stars. |
V1
Been Vanning Around
Sit start at the arete with hands in the large crack, pop up to the small thin crimps then slap to the top jugs. |
V1
★ Crack From The Man In The Vans
Sit start in the middle of the face, jam those hands in the crack, crank up and top out by a slightly tricky mantle |
★ 13
Sit start at the crack and slab and head up trending right to top out. |
★ 12
Sit start either on the ledge, or the ground below if you're long enough, with hands in the flake, follow up this and top out through the tree. Do not damage the tree! |
V1
★ Hunting Vans Helsing
Sit start with hands on the ledge, either mantle this or punch up to the rising crack coming in from the right, get over the top with plenty of grunting and groaning. Either way you do it, the mantle will be what gets you. |
V1
★ 11
Head up the slab using small thin features past the break and onto the small headwall until you're on the top. |
V1
★★ Running Up A Big Bill
Running start up the slab and fall into the layback, move onto the headwall and top out. Watch out for loose blocks at the top. |
V2/3
★★ Evasive Manoeuvres
Start for Richie, but entire large horizontal break is out except far left edge. Gain this, head left to gaston then up to cracked features. Straight up, no right low ledge for standing. Contrived. |
V2
★★ Richie Rich Pitched In A Ditch
Crouch start with hands in the horizontal break under the roof on the wedged block. Feet up on the block and head out of the cave until you pull over the juggy lip, but it's not all over until you're on the very top! |
V1
★★ Fangled Angle Dangle Wrangle
Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out. |
V1
★ Dialysis
Sit with bad central right 2 finger seam/join/slot, and left low gaston. Up to edge, then top. |
V1
★ All Hail She, The Prowess
Sit start laybacking the arete under the bulge. Punch up over the bulge and stand atop gazing out over your lands, or continue to the top if you want. |
V1
Ramp-Arts & Crack Dancing
Sit start in the corner and follow the crack to the top out. |
V1
★ Livid With Living
Sit start on the jug pocket and crack, follow out left to more good holds and then head up onto the top. |