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접속점
North Wangetti

Stunning beach bouldering along the Captain Cook Highway north of Wangetti and south of Oak Beach. Hard and intermediate climbing, some high balls, mostly granite boulders.

The Breakwall

A roadside crag with a smattering of good boulders along a 400m stretch of coastline.

The Breakwall
The most northern problems of this area. About 80m north of the northern carpark.

The most northern problems of this area. About 80m north of the northern carpark.

35

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

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Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

The Plunge Boulder

The boulder nearest to the northern carpark, only 20m south along the beach.

V2 Long Days

Sit start on the rock and hang off the long rail under the tiny rooflet, slap over the top and mantle out.

V3 Mens Plunging Necklines

Sit start off the two jugs down left on the arete and trend right onto slopers and mantle out.

V1 Smeared It Like On A Bagel

Stand start with hands on the positive rail and smear feet, head straight up the face.

V0+ Repetitive Naming Trends

Sit start with hands in the crack and follow this until topping out

V0 Stand For What You Want

Stand start on the face and smear and balance to the top.

The Overlook Boulder

Beside the Plunge Boulder and a little closer to the water.

V1 Quartz Of A Gallon

Sit start using the parallel cracks and follow up to the tallest part of the boulder.

V2 Quartz Faceplate

A tricky sit start at the base of the quartz plate following up the flake and over the top.

6

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

The Shard

Small standalone boulder 10m south from the Overlook Boulder

7

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

8

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Short Stops
VB+ Easing It Out

Start sitting on the right of the triangle, and follow up the arete over the top point.

V0- Faced With A Problem

Sit start near the arete and follow up the face then mantle over.

V1 Mantle Pliz

Hang off the large flat ledge, throw a leg up and pull over.

Bulging Battle Boulder

The distinct large boulder with a few hard lines still yet to be completed.

9

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

V1 Line Of Fine

Would've made a great hard technical crack line if it wasn't for all the jugs in it. Still a great problem though!

Sit start below the quartz streak on the jugs on the small arete and follow the obvious line up the crack. Walk off to the left where the back of the boulder meets the road.

V2 Meet And Bind

Sit start under the small roof on the short arete. Pull up following the rounded flake and then join into 'Line Of Fine'

12

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

13

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

V4 If It's Raining, Don't Go Draining

A strange and tricky start leading to some technical slab work.

Sit start using the slopey flake to the right and the triangular block to the left and slap to the lip and pull over onto the slab.

Angles Of Triangles Boulder

A lone boulder near the waterline about 50m South from 'The Bulging Battle Boulder'

V2 Gaining Mounds

Sit start with hands on the crimps and smearing feet, use the flake to stand up and gain ground and hit the top and pull over.

16

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

17

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

18

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Embiggens Block

Classic Simpsons reference. Best accessed from the Middle Carpark which puts you only metres from this giant block with a good mix of grades. 220m south from 'Angles Of Triangles Boulder'

19

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

20

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

21

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

V0+ A Noble Smear Embiggens The Smallest Human

Wander up the face just right of the corner. Will keep you thinking the whole way.

V1 Base-Jumping Geckos

Stand start around the corner from the long arete. Head straight up the face on the crimps while balancing your way through

Crushed Grunt Block

A distinct boulder with a single distinct compression line. 50m south from the Middle Carpark

V5 Feed Me Beta & Call Me Strong

Sit start underneath the overhanging face and grab both the aretes then throw for the top, as simple as that really.

Smashed Sub Boulder
25

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

26

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

27

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

34

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

Playing The Jungle Game Blocks

A corner of two blocks offering a few lines with a small cave between them. Best accessed from the Southern Carpark.

28

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

29

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

The Meeting Boulders

40m South from the Southern Carpark with a few easier lines.

30

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

V1 Bored Meetings

Sit start with the large flake at the bottom right, and go from this trending left to the top. Harder than you'd expect when first looking at it.

Dropped Pie Boulder

The most southern boulder of the whole area. 170m south from the Southern Carpark.

V1 Rip Off The Crust

Sit start hanging off the ledge, and just mantle over, as simple as that.

V0+ Puffy Pastries

Sit start using the horizontal break and follow it left and over the top.

Pretty Beach

Beautiful and scenic beachside bouldering with relatively easy access.

Pretty Beach
Northern Retreat

Covering all of the blocks and spots north of the northern carpark. Until recently largely unexplored. Plenty of new and undiscovered routes here with a great variety of styles for many climbers. A lot of the problems can be wet at high tide but this still leaves half the crag left to climb!

Routes are listed South to North from the carpark as you walk to them.

Pretty Beach Northern Retreat
V2 Crocs Nipping At My Ankles

Hanging with one hand jamming in the vertical break under the lip and the other on any of the nearby jugs throw up from here to follow up the weakness to the top.

V2 Moving Onto Campus

Hanging off the horizontal break to the far right, follow it left and then up the weakness to top out.

First half makes for a great campus problem.

V1 Pyramid Head

Stand start at the head height triangle, grab the jugs, smear a lot and go on up

Large boulder up the hill in the scrub behind DREAMS AND SEAMS BOULDER. Holds potential for some rea

Large boulder up the hill in the scrub behind DREAMS AND SEAMS BOULDER. Holds potential for some really hard problems for those dedicated enough to clean them up!

V5 Coccyx

Sit under cave roof - left hand sloping pinch feature on arete, right hand slot edge in cave. Be mindful of mud wasp nests. Move out through steepness to find footing to get onto slab. With an array of holds, work upward to topout central.

V5/6 Magical Monday

Direct finish to Coccyx. Move straight up through fingery holds. A hold broke, potentialy harder now.

V5 Bullied, Beaten, Scarred and Scathed

Sit start under the 45 degree face to the left of the tree. Use the flat edge right and either of the two left sidepulls, hit the flat ledge above and mantle out.

Easily recognisable due to the large rock scar in the middle of the face.

V5 Weaver Tribunal

Tree-rest-start with left hand edge at roof lip, right hand lower minger, and low feet. Pull on, work to pocket, then upper slopers before grovelling through the mantle without dabbing the tree. Top up and right.

Dreams And Seams Boulder

A great looking standalone boulder with plenty of line options.

V2 Polka Bear and Get Bitten

For the grovelling traverse addicts amongst us. Get right down between the two boulders, hands in the pocket where the seam turns over the edge, then following along the lip doing the polka until you get to the arete then top out.

V2 Ziggy & The Bugs In My Headtorch

Sit start just behind the arete with hands on the flake. Punch out left to the slopers and whale out. The left hand variation to

V2 Torched Heads Burn Bright

Sit start behind the arete with hands on the high flake, punch around to the right hitting the slopey ledge and mantle through this, keep an eye on the boulder behind you when topping out.

V2 Corn Eared

Grab the triangle undercling from a sit start, 'mantle' onto the face, then use the crack until you top out.

36

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

35

Be wary at any coastal or riverside crags for the potential of crocodiles and if you're in the water marine stingers.

V0+ Folding Molasses

Sit start at the rounded arete, follow up using jugs and slopes until on top.

V0+ Trick Or Treacle

Sit start with the flake on the face and use whatever you can find to get up on top. Many different ways of doing this, so have fun with it!

Wall Of The Weird Block

The north facing overhanging block a small distance along from 'Dreams and Seams' Boulder

V2 Railing Ruts and Respecting Women

Sit start in the wedge of the rocks at the base of the large flaring crack, hit the jugs on the way up, top out and tell your mum how great she is.

V5 Clinging On To Sweet Death

Start seated at the bottom of the corner with hands in the juggy undercling. Using the arete and the undercling slot get to the top and make the easy mantle over the angle change onto the headwall slab.

V1 Tal-Cling Highly Of You

Grab the high undercling from a stand start, smearing feet to the left and head up left of 'Clinging On To Sweet Death'

V4 Pinching And Yawning

Crouch start with hands in the crack near the tip of the triangle on the face. Go up from here onto the slab and top out.

V1 Point Baked

Sit start in the short corner, using the left arete and the corner crack go up following the crack and up the weakness to the top.

V1 Round The Twist

It was a very weird show.

Stand start with hands in the thin horizontal break and go straight up the slab.

The Man With The Van With The Plan Boulder

Unnecessarily long name for a small boulder. Sits in the scrub just slightly up the hill.

V0 Runaway Van

Sit start at the ocean side arete of the block, pull up and traverse left until you can step around the next arete and onto the boulder.

V0+ Arete Vandals

Sit start with hands on the big ledge, one or two moves and you'll be at the top.

The Living Room

The natural small amphitheatre that holds the majority of the problems in the middle of the sector. A nice place to chill out and watch the waves and stars.

V1 Been Vanning Around

Sit start at the arete with hands in the large crack, pop up to the small thin crimps then slap to the top jugs.

V1 Crack From The Man In The Vans

Sit start in the middle of the face, jam those hands in the crack, crank up and top out by a slightly tricky mantle

13

Sit start at the crack and slab and head up trending right to top out.

12

Sit start either on the ledge, or the ground below if you're long enough, with hands in the flake, follow up this and top out through the tree. Do not damage the tree!

V1 Hunting Vans Helsing

Sit start with hands on the ledge, either mantle this or punch up to the rising crack coming in from the right, get over the top with plenty of grunting and groaning. Either way you do it, the mantle will be what gets you.

V1 11

Head up the slab using small thin features past the break and onto the small headwall until you're on the top.

V1 Running Up A Big Bill

Running start up the slab and fall into the layback, move onto the headwall and top out. Watch out for loose blocks at the top.

V2/3 Evasive Manoeuvres

Start for Richie, but entire large horizontal break is out except far left edge. Gain this, head left to gaston then up to cracked features. Straight up, no right low ledge for standing. Contrived.

V2 Richie Rich Pitched In A Ditch

Crouch start with hands in the horizontal break under the roof on the wedged block. Feet up on the block and head out of the cave until you pull over the juggy lip, but it's not all over until you're on the very top!

V1 Fangled Angle Dangle Wrangle

Sit start laybacking off the arete, punch up to the break and go until you top out.

V1 Dialysis

Sit with bad central right 2 finger seam/join/slot, and left low gaston. Up to edge, then top.

V1 All Hail She, The Prowess

Sit start laybacking the arete under the bulge. Punch up over the bulge and stand atop gazing out over your lands, or continue to the top if you want.

V1 Ramp-Arts & Crack Dancing

Sit start in the corner and follow the crack to the top out.

V1 Livid With Living

Sit start on the jug pocket and crack, follow out left to more good holds and then head up onto the top.

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