접속점들 Waihoo에서

Lots of steep rock and new route potential. 90 second walk in.

First wall you come to. Has a bunch of great routes and the access is fantastic. Highlights are Super Grover, The Pretender, and if you're up for a challenge the trad roof of Synchronicity.

The first good piece of rock on the cliff line and possibly the closest sandstone route to Coffs?? Climb arête past 2 bolts. Most people think this route is harder than 19 but Artie refuses to give such a short route a harder grade. Let's call it 'stout'.

4m left of Yosemite Action Hero. Very punchy through rooflet.

Stick clip ring and climb bouldery start to Beached

Start as for FSA then veer right and up thin slab to anchors on ledge

As for beached then Continue up steep headwall from ledge to finish with hands on top of cliff. Beware of some loose rock. Needs Anchor

Climb arête past 3 rb and some finesse

The thin face and arete was a long-standing project. Fingery and technical. A long reach and a cold day may make it feel easier.

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

A juggy roof that is way easier than it looks from the ground. 3 bolt slab with pockets to ledge, take a breather and then campus into the roof on massive jugs and up through more steep terrain to a lower off below small tree.

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

The amazing looking, yellow, honey-comb roof 15m left of Super Grover. Up wall and then crank out the 3-4m horizontal roof on jugs and pockets to finish on holds over the lip. Anchor has permadraws on it to make cleaning a little easier

Fun face route.

All Trad up crack and left at top to anchor for TST

wall just left of offwidth

A nice overhang with a couple of great routes and a couple of projects. Scope for more if anyone is keen.

First route on right side of cave. Up wall and straight out through roof to anchors up headwall.

The prominent prow feature in the centre of the first part of the cave. Turn the hard roof down low to a rest, then follow overhung prow and roof above to lower offs. Can be done in all but the heaviest of rain. Six ring bolts and double ring lower offs.

2m left of DotU. Boulders start then up steep wall to clip anchors on lip of roof

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

The climbing on this nice compact white wall is great. it ranges from vertical to overhung and all the routes contain interesting movies at the grade and are not often obvious at first attempt.

Starts before the main white wall.

Line right of Magic Noodle. Holes drilled but bolts not in yet

Start as for MG head right over bulge to anchors under roof (anchor not yet installed)

Hard start off ledge then up past scoop and steepening finish. Shares Anchors with FF.

Straight up middle of white wall. Fun moves on great stone.

A Tasty treat on a summers day. straight up the guts of the wall through overlap and steep finish.

Start as for OS for 2 bolts then head right up steepening wall. Longer draw on 4th bolt helps reduce drag, Finish as for white rabbit. An easier way to get on the finishing moves which are classic.

Climb the Overhung feature on left side of wall.

Highest density of harder climbing in the Coffs Area. It features steep roof and overhung bouldery routes. Bring plenty of power and tough skin as the rock is gritty.

A bouldery direct start to ‘The Thunderbolt Kid’. A tenuous move off the floor (crux) gains the left hand crimp, then pop to the pocket. Continue into TTK.

Perseus start into Thunder Vision, packs a bit more punch than the original.

Left tending line of pockets on the left side of roof.

Start as for TTK but at 3rd Bolt head right past one more FH and 1 ring then head back left to share anchor on TTK.

Start on obvious jug above the end of the large boulder. Thug your way past the steep, blank barrier to rejoin Thunder vision at it's crux.

Open Project. Crush it if you can

Want to know what the moves on a 27 feel like? Well you can try just about all of the hard moves right of the big boulder! Starts as for Event Horizon but heads right over the boulder. Needs a few more bolts to get to the lip of the cave. Absolute sickness!

Up flake then out the amazing horizontal feature via a very blank section. Not operational yet as some of the bolts need sorting out.

Might be 6m of bliss or extended to hard territory above

Fun boulder problem up the start of the route. Up to sidepull then pop to the jug by the first bolt.

Sit start in the pocket.

Start as for arty project, traverse right on hangers then up steep wall tending rightish. Don't forget to breath! The loss of a good hold high up has made this harder.

Start as for Pulmonary Vacuum but break right after first bulge continuing to the anchors on Isometrics via hard block.

How many (space themed) routes can we fit in here? A worthwhile and pumpy addition. Start on Arty's project and cruise all the way over to Red Dwarf to finish as for that route.

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

On right side of wall and climbs steep overhung arete.

The original boulder traverse. Start by stepping off the boulder at the left-most good pockets (as per the start of Event Horizon). Traverse right (tricky at first) and continue low all the way to finish up the start to Arty's Project (to the jug by the first bolt). The flake in the middle can seep, but the wet hole can be avoided by going high (as per the High Traverse) and then dropping down to the 'porthole' before the final crux - only slightly easier. Crux is the final crimpy section to get the sidepull on Artie's start.

Start as for Scorpio Original. From the half-way flake rest climb up to jugs, then traverse right continuing high to reach across to the finish pocket on "Artie's" via a series of crimps. An easier version than the original traverse but the finish section is quite high.

Silliness but a good warm-up. Climb Scorpio Low Traverse to the bolt, then reverse Scorpio High all the way back to the start. Bragging rights for multiple laps.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Higher section of Waihoo with longer mixed routes

Possibly the worst, documented route in the Coffs Area. An adventure route that is the antithesis of the neighboring sport climbs. About 30 m past the White Wall, before you get to the main Deliverance Area.

1. 15m. Delicately up the orange, chossy, corner crack to the base of the chimney.

2. 15m. Struggle and stem your way up the flairing off-width/chimney on reasonable rock until you reach the overhanging soil. Detour left around the arete onto poorly protected slopers and bushes before crawling across a ledge back into the main crack system.

3. 5m. Enjoy a surprisingly nice stemming crack to the summit.

Climb 4 to 5m through slightly reachy and mildly overhung section until small arete is reached . Move up this for a few metres and then move into corner , use corner and wall until crack is reached then up crack to lower off chains

start near beehive. still a project

Start as for CoD. Up first 4 bolts on CoD (hangers needed) then step head up and leftward to steep headwall and anchors. Beware of loose rock in the first half, a 60m rope will just get you back to the ground.

A nice compact wall surrounded by steep rock and capped with a roof so it stays dry

Climbs the Slabby flake on left side of the wall. fun moves and rock

Bring your technique and finger tips for this great wall climb. Fantastic unlikely moves up the middle of this fun little face.

Amazing rock and Amazing moves on this hard wall route.

Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project

Up slab and around right side of tree and steeper rock to anchors on ledge. Good varied climbing with a bit of loose rock up high.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

The big roof at the left end of the crag is steep and powerful. Stick-clip the first bolt(s) then boulder up to the roof, out the flake, and round the lip. Up headwall more easily to chains. Classic!

Punchy wall and steep finish on left of orange wall.

Crimpy slabby start then a bunch of Coffs punch to the chains!

Funky climbing up the big chimney on the left of the crag.

5M right of Chim Chim Cher-oo. Up the white streak, fun bouldery crux, then up slab left of tree to anchors.

Some meters east of OSS. Start as per Camo Corner. At first ledge traverse left under tree and around corner where a few more moves will take you to the main arete. Step left around the corner onto the next face to clip two rings before making a mantle finish. Rap rings are a metre to the right. Belay your buddy from here and rap off if you like your rope.

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

Start as for Swindled then straight up face

Batman start on first bolt, or free the fun start move at much the same grade. Up tending right to climb the beautiful feature.

Up as for Invasion Streak then traverse left and climb up flake and wall. Put a long/double draw on the bolt below the flake.

Straight up the obvious white streak

Mixed route of zigzagging cracks with anchors

Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

left wall on the face. Tricky start

straight up face to finish through rooflet

A nice longish adventure through rooflet and up fused seam

Punchy wall route to finish under roof

Start as for Criminal but traverse right to ledge then wander up face and arete to anchors

Climb Rat Attack and step left under roof

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

Climb Chimney as for Rat attack then traverse right on underclings to gain crack and flake. Up past a couple of bolts to anchors on the right of the tree.

Climb the steep corner and feature.

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

Start as for Sinisterhood then left and up middle of the face

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Shady corner after Sinisterhood. Small roof to clean wall with reachy crux at the top

The fantastic looking crack system seen overhead to the right during approach to the crag, starting in gully off to the right. Scramble down from main crag or alternate approach from main access trail by heading right along base cliff before the fixed roped section.

Mantle daintily onto first ledge, place first good gear at back of rooflette then pull bouldery move up and into main crack system. Great protection the whole way.