등정들 Carborundum Wall에서 Hang dog로서

Got confused, very pumpy as a warm up!

felt hard for the grade, committing fifth clip made me pump out. got it clean on second, will be back for the red point.

Enjoyable route, should go next time.

Steep and sustained at the grade nearly the whole way. Great little route. Need to come back and get it clean.

Racking up at base of the route I realise we lost our first totem 😢 😢 😢 sad sad days. Good bye purple buddy.

In other news i shat my pants big time on this rock climb. After seeing Kobi smash out the direct grade 19 start, i got way too scared doing just the 15 variant and had to sit on gear. Same story on P2, but actually enjoyed the climbing on this pitch, didn't layback much but got the world’s best fist jam just as I was getting scared in a section with bad feet.

Didnt like the belay ledge at end of P1, gear was average and ledge was muddy. Would recommend belaying from rap chains below ledge (ignore the first set of chains with rusty maillon and continue on to nice shiny rings a few metres up)

I think i blew past any good spots to belay end of P2, so did a sketchy traverse left to the end chains of Phoenix and abseiled from there. If doing again would probably end P2 wherever I could find a good 3-piece anchor.

Lia also received a pant-soiling moment when a massive block exploded a little to her left. Turns out Kobi ripped off a flake on “Overexposed” and took a TEN METRE WHIPPER ripping out two cams. Jeepers…

Hoped on it thinking it was the first pitch of AOP. Misread a cruxy bit and slipped off

This is a short, excellent route, well worth the trip. The last pitch is worth the visit alone!

If it's summer time, I'd start up the route at around 1230-1300, just as the sun heads over the peak. It was 30C today but was absolutely lovely in the shade.

Pitches

1. Pretty sure I made this harder than it needed to be. Felt pretty desperate. The first bolt was high, but the climbing to it was straight forward. A previous tick mentioned the second bolt being close to ground-fall territory, this must have since been rectified.

2. Not at all a filler pitch, this was actually pretty fun climbing at the grade. Steep and sustained. It looks like it gets pretty wet if there's been rain, so take note of the weather over the past few days.

3. Excellent climbing in a fun position! Really Two hands-free knee bars offer excellent rests. Kicking myself for trending right at the crux and robbing myself of the onsight! I'll be back to clean it before long.

Descent

2 x 60m ropes will get you from the top of p3 to the top of p1 with ease.

Very cool, big exposure, scary but rewarding. Definitely want to come back and lead the 20

P1 felt a bit stiff, I reckon it could be 19. Good fun though with a fun crux. The moves are harder than they look.

Jeepers, there's a stiff move on P1! I yarded on a cam, so technically I guess it's aid. Takes decent gear of all sizes (regretted not taking the 5 and 6!). Lots of grenade holds, and the trees are kinda missing too, they're just shrubs presently. First proper climb in over a month, tendinitis seems to have settled.

Clipping mis-adventures. Great climb though.

Slipped going for silly move, climbed 3/4 clean

I was take option 15 which was possible for me I can’t do straight up as grade 19 😞 not enough experience

We climbed this as an off route self sandbagged first pitch of Banished. Whoops 😂

Surprisingly difficult, although very nice moves. I'm wondering if a big hold has broken off making it harder as it looks like something has broken off recently. Sustained all the way though.

Two hangs. Maybe next time.

Led the crux pitch and it was hard. Many friable holds in the cave. Saw a wasp next on Pitch 2 - easily avoided. No wasps on the crux pitch. Somehow went too far left on Pitch 3 and ended up on the 24 variant (Pitch 4b). It was hard.

Had a devastating foot hold blow and lost the flash.

We launched up the R leaning crack on the white rock up the R side of this line thinking it was Patience Crack. I did think it was mightily stiff for 15. After whipping onto some surprisingly good gear and then discovering that there was no second pitch that vaguely resembled the description in the guide we came to suspect that we were off route. After we got back to ground level (who doesn't love lead downclimbing ) we discovered the 12 inch high painted 'P' at the base of Patience Crack.

So does anyone have any FA details of that big white wide to hands crack, often wet, seeps, feels about 20ish?

More moistness, a good climb but.

You can tell this has been rebollted, nicely bolted where crack line is at the start, then the last 3 hanger have some good space between them

The crux pitch (21) has an airy move out of the cave, and my reach made the crux move up to the belay ledge a bit harder. Will crush it next time.