접속점들 Ruined Castle에서

One of the best sport crags for the medium grade climber. A multi-tiered cave of superb bulging orange rock with exposure to boot! The novelty of the awesome belay ledges and the via ferrata make a particularly memorable day out. You'll need to climb two pitches to make it up to the really good stuff on the third tier.

This cliff is blessed with shade and cooling breezes until 3pm in summer. It overhangs enough that light drizzle is not much of a problem. In heavy rain go elsewhere.

The first five routes are about 60m left of where the cairned access track hits the cliff line. This area features an impressive 20m high bulging black and orange wall with large pockets.

Right facing jam crack then bulging orange wall and finger crack crux. Finish up easy wall above to rap anchors on ledge. Bring a full rack of wires and a few medium cams.

Left facing blank corner then bulging face above with crazy fist jam crux in pocket. A bit dirty. Crux can be avoided by climbing right into 'Forbidden Fruits' at grade 23. Six bolts and lower-off.

Sustained reachy pockets up wall just right of 'Fruit Punch'. A fantastic warm-up for the upper tier routes. Five FHs and lower-off.

Climb corner as for 'Winter Solstice' then move left under bulge. Continue straight up wall on pockets, then upper wall on small edges to ledge.

Starts below a jagged flake on the right end of the wall. Climb small right-facing corner to flake, then around right to finish up slab. Walk off left or rap from tree.

These following four routes are in a small shady alcove directly below the Ruined Castle and are the first routes you come upon when walking up the access track. They are about 50m right of Winter Solstice Wall. There is a handy small bivi cave here that can be used for hiding from the rain or stashing gear when you are on the upper Ruined Castle pitches. There is a bolted rap anchor above Legends Of The Fall (15m).

Meaty. In the centre of the wall is an appealing Arapilisean flake crack. Follow this to where it almost joins the shallow corner on the left. Continue right and up to terrace. Be careful of hollow flake in the middle.

Cute. Start right of TMCO, 2m left Legend Of 'The Fall'. Climb small right facing corner to overlap, step left then up to tree. Rap off tree.

Surprisingly good for a wide crack. Climb the major corner on the right side of the recessed wall. This corner is the Rap line for the 2nd Tier.

Steeper and nicer than it looks. Climb the obvious steep, short crack 2m right of Legends Of the Fall to ledge.

Walk 10m around right of the alcove to find the next routes on a slabby bulgy wall of Araps style bums.

The easiest sport route in the Grampians? This is the sport climbers approach pitch to the upper tiers of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'. Five FHs up slabby marbled wall. Belay off bolt anchor at back of ledge.

Start: Starts 4m left of 'A Good Day Out'.

Delightful left facing finger crack that ends prematurely on slab, then veer left to finish up vegetated rubbish onto ledge.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

20m right of 'A Good Day Out'. Climb nice looking crack 3m left of 'Gorker' to under overlap. Exit left. Add a grade if you step R though steep overhang.

The first obvious line on the compact wall left of The Snack bar. Climb small orange corner moving left at bulge. Continue up shallow grey corner.

Climb pitch 1 of The First Crusade to get to this large ledge. It is big enough to be safe to walk around on without a rope.

There is no lower off on this climb. Either top out and build a trad anchor or lower off a single bolt/leaver biner

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Enjoyable, interesting trad climbing and a nice way to get to the 3rd tier. Starts 1m left of Carcassonne and Cassoulet at undercut left leading crack. Pull on and head left up nice crack with decent gear and better holds than expected. Mantle to reach large ledge at about 12m, then move right over Carcassonee and Cassoulet past bush and traverse easily (without any gear past the bush) to the base of the 3rd tier. Be wary of choss near the end.

Two pitches of trad adventure squeezed into between the foreboding caves of the 'Ruined Castle'. Starts at polished yellow handcrack at left end of the Second Tier overhangs. Belay in cave halfway up. Step right then up wide layback crack to roof. Traverse out left to finish.

Easiest line up through the second tier. Awkward mantle onto ledge then up steep weakness in left side of roof. Ramble up choss to top. Four FHs.

Steep thugging then easy wall. 7 FHs and lower-off.

The middle line on the wall, finishing through steep V corner.

Start Up Blood letter to the third bolt then head straight up past 3 more fixed hangers to a double bolt belay on a ledge.

Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier. Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.

Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to finish as for 'Blood Letter'. Inconsistent.

Start on rib as for 'Alexius' but continue up this with wide crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.

Outrageous positions up the crazy giant plates on the left side of the ledge. Finish up headwall (out of sight of the belayer). 7 RBs.

Straight up the guts of the steepest tallest bit of the crag with some very creative moves in the middle. Slopers, jugs and then final killer headwall. Use a sling on the fifth bolt to avoid the rope cutting plate.

Start: Starts 4m left of The First Crusade.

Unrelenting steepness. Start at the impressive pillar of prehistoric birdpoo. Scuttle left and out through roof and up endless jugs and steepness above past a few giant heucos. 6 FHs.

Superb orange scoop with tricky roof start - now made much harder after a key hold broke down low (prob grade 25+ now). Starts directly above rap rings. 7 bolts.

Brilliant. A easier variant start to The First Crusade that eliminates the brutal roof. Start up heucos on the left edge of the right wall then trend left to join into TFC at its 4th bolt.

Probably hard 24 but we couldn't give 'another' route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First Crusade Pitch 3 and 'Catapult'. Start as for 'Christendom' but instead of traversing off left keeping cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff.

A wild dyno! Slopey orange goodness from start to finish up the giant heucos. 5 FHs. Starts 2m left of Nicea.

Nice orange bulges - but a shabby first few metres. 4 FH's.

Start: Starts on the far right of the wall at end of fixed rope.

Furthest right of the bolted lines.

Only one route exists right on the top of cliff. It's not a classic but worth doing for the full four pitch experience.

Short but sweet face pitch right on the top of the crag! 3 FHs and single bolt lower-off.

Quick way to the top if you have a trad rack!