Tortoise Wall 대부분 고전등반 30 루트들 에서의 암장

Climb the weakness to the overhang and move right to the arete. Up to ledge and walk off.

Start: At the left-hand side of the wall is an orange recess. This climb was originally called 'Golden Gaytime'.

Bold, with a crux close to the ground with a nearby tree ready to puncture your kidneys.

Start on the left side of an arete at the left side of the cliff, 10 metres left of the flake of Aimless Blade.

When over the bulge, reach right and climb straight up the wall above.

Start: Start at right-leading flake towards left side of cliff.

1. 15m (16) Climb the flake and move up to a tree.

2. 30m (14) Step left and up thin cracks. Step right to a break in the overhang, pull over and go up.

10m R of Aimless Blade (was mistaken that that route on the FA) Climbs the vague blocky flake that ends after 10m. Then reach L and climb the wall above to Abseil tree. A direct finish through the prow might be possible?

Climb face a couple of metres right of the wide crack. When the easier slab is reached, drift leftish to tree.

Start: Start about 25 metres right of "Aimless Blade" ata wide crack.

Tackles the nice Arete L of Little Escapes. Gear is slightly fiddly, but adequate. Start up the shallow juggy corner. Go R around roof and straight up blunt arete. Escape L at the top and up to abseil tree.

Obvious orange corner starting off a ledge, just a few metres right of "Hot Cross".

Up technical corner to middle of roof and traverse easily left to stance. Scramble off left to rap tree on Hot Cross. There was originally a second pitch up corner and bulge but it adds little value.

A whimsical journey. Start 3 metres right of "Little Escapes" at a thin line just left of arete.

Thin line then step right to shallow corner on arete. Up corner to ledge just right of large roof. Step left above the roof (?large cam handy) and climb leftwards up the face.

Enjoyable. Start just right of Vasco below a crack.

Up to and up crack. Over bulge and easily up to a ledge. Now straight up wall above. Move left and up to finish. Going direct to the tree at the top goes at about grade 17.

Up the middle of the wall of the descent gully. Could be done in one pitch. 32m Abseil from higher tree lands you at the head of the descent gully.

1. Start 3m R of Have I Ever Told You. Up face, aiming for short diagonal crack.

2. Over flakes, then take a R up slight ramp - finishing up thin wall above.

Bold in parts but escapable.

Start 3 metres right of Have I Ever Told You, 2 metres left of the head of the gully.

Go straight up the wall to a horizontal break below a thin seam up a smooth slab. Traverse 3 metres right along the break then go up the face via a scary rock-over. Continue directly up to obvious right-leaning corner. Climb corner and step left. Hard moves up shallow diagonal groove and then go straight up the wall.

Thrilling pitch at head of descent gully.

Climb the left edge of the slab to a tree. Bridge short corner behind tree to ledge. Hand-traverse right to the undercut arete which is followed to the top.

Juggy wall just left of the creek.

Start at shallow corner by creek and climb just left of the arete. At the big ledge move left and continue to the top.

An entertaining problem with an exciting finish; cruelly stolen from Ferret.

Start at the steep flake on the left side of the overhanging wall left of the obvious chimney/cleft.

tart up the flake and finish up the thin seam.

Demanding route up overhanging wall right of "The Boys That Were Naughty". Boulder to or stick-clip first bolt. One of the bolts is actually a peg; probably should be replaced with a bolt.

Somewhat contrived.

Bridge the cleft right of Bad Boys for a few moves then traverse left along the horizontal (peg runner) to finish as for Bad Boys.

Funky 3D climbing is both unnerving and exciting. Thin crack/seam at edge of chimney cleft, 3 metres left of Tortology until it meets the cleft. Heave around right and up.

The enjoyable vague arete 6 metres right of the chimney-cleft to the terrace. Originally done as two pitches but pitch two is rarely repeated and is described separately (Turning Turtle) There is a rap anchor above YTTDF

This is the exciting but rarely done second pitch of Tortoise.

Start at the belay at the top of Tortoise. Move right and up to the right side of the distinct prow. Traverse left below the prow and up the corner above.

Sustained and intricate climbing on the immaculate wall right of "Tortoise". Climb the best bit of the wall past a bolt then veer left to easier ground.

Used to be graded 27, it is probably easy for 26. The obvious finish to this great route. Instead of veering off left after the first bolt continue straight up past a second bolt. Both bolts are new (2012) and there is a rap anchor above.

Good first pitch.

Start: Start at short chimney with rotten chockstone right of the smooth wall. 2nd Pitch ascends a difficult R leading diagonal line visible just R of prow.

1. 25m (19) Up onto rotten chockstone and take left-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (19) Move up right and climb diagonal crack-line.

Again, a good first pitch and vaguely described second pitch. Start at the chimney as for "Snail".

1. 25m (18) Onto the rotten chockstone and take right-hand line to terrace.

2. 25m (18) Up a series of walls to the top.

Start at ramp 8 metres right of Slug. Gain the right-leading flake by a traverse left from the easy ramp. Up the line and exit vertically to the belay ledge.

The original second pitch of "Floaties" is much harder than the first and is not popular though it's not too bad. Start on the ledge a few metres right of the belay on "Floaties", beneath the right-hand end of the roofs. There used to be a stump hereabouts.