도움

Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma

Carrot bolts have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

개발된 수일 전

Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator

Old carrots have been removed, pending an upgrade.

Still OK to TR.

See warning details and discuss

개발된 수일 전

Access: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

BCC will begin more cliff stabilisation work at KP next month: June 2024.

This will mean rolling (staggered) closures of certain routes and areas, as the work progresses.

Unfortunately, a couple of high profile routes need some "tlc" and will be closed for a bit, whilst they do shotcreting work as well as pinning some rock on or near them:

SCB (18)

Anonymous (16)

Humungousaur (16)

Spidermonkey (6)

TASH (10)

The slab on the right, where Humungousaur & Spidermonkey are located, is not the target, the alcove to the left is & has been on their "to-do" list for a while now. I did a walk-through last year (2023), with BCC & their subcontractor and they need to stabilise the lose rock in that alcove, which will mean closing access to the slab right of it, and probably/maybe, the 18 to the left: Dodgy Dub, possibly Hanging Garden as well? If there were large rockfall during the stabilisation works, they would need to take precautions that any member of the public is well clear. Cést la vie.

The biggest impact will probably be the temporary closure of the stone stairs whilst they carry out stabilisation work in the alcove beneath the stone stairs. Rock pinning + shotcreting. You may have noticed the huge bags of rocks they placed there, last year (2023), as a temporary shoring-up measure.

Unfortunately, this will restrict access to the cliffs, to either via the road below or the metal stairs on the right, (below the Nursery Cliffs).

More work will be done around the arête Earth To Stella + A Quickie Before Dinner, but these routes have long been closed now, with heavy wire mesh pinned around that arête to stabilise it.

There will also be more stabilisation work done at KP North.

See warning details and discuss

개발된 수일 전

설명

Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019.

Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains.

루트 역사

1969초등들: Rick White

Top-rope

Warnings

16 Nov 2019 Rock: Loose hold - marked X Resolved
5 May 2024 경고 Fixed Gear: Another Faustian Dilemma
5 May 2024 경고 Fixed Gear: The Rasp/Exterminator
20 May 2024 경고 Access: CLIFF STABILISATION WORKS 2024

GPS 위치 찾기

위도/경도: -27.47817, 153.03434

어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Grade citation

18 공동체 등록 등급들
17 [17 - 18] -- grAId
18 Kangaroo Point Climbing Guide
18 Kangaroo Point
18 Mark Gamble

윤리문제

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

  • All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
  • Don't ever chip holds.
  • Don't paint on any new initials.
  • Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.
Kangaroo Point으로부터 상속된

계절특성

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

계절특성

완전 구식
클래식
아주좋음
좋음
평균
안하는 것이 좋음
형편없음

Overall quality 48 from 87 ratings.

Difficulty - 18

부드러운 감촉
쉬움
평균
어려움
거칠고 흔들리는 홀드의 루트

Based on 2 ratings.

Suggested Grade

18

Based on 2 ratings.

완등 형태

온사이트 58
플래쉬 완등 20
레드 포인트 33
완등 38
핑크 포인트 4
톱로핑 3
시도 23

Comment keywords

good enjoyable lovely fun super nice great cool tough challenging tired struggle solid crux short crap interesting crack rest awkward chossy feet easy hands scary tricky runout

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

일자: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

Author(s): Simon Carter

일자: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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