★ Mank Mistress 18

Start 2m Left of 'Pass the Bosch' or 1m Right of the Nightfell scoop.

Originally climbed on top rope in the 60s, 'Mank Mistress' was anonymously retrobolted into a seemingly well protected sport route in about 2010. However careful inspection in 2014 (triggered by the anonymous bolting of 'Breakfast At Tiffanys') revealed substandard bolting and the bolts were removed. Rebolted in March 2019.

Start below the bolt about 3.5m up, just Right of the big concave wall (Nightfell). Straight up past this to 2nd bolt, up to ledge & 3rd bolt on short wall on Left. Up to the big ledge & clip 4th bolt at head height, straight up the block to 5th bolt (crux), then easy climbing to chains.

Climbing at 'KP' has a long, rich history and the cliffs are used by a huge number of climbers of very varied styles and abilities. For these reasons ethics here are complicated. However here are some undisputed points:

• All top roping should be done through your own quickdraws to minimize wear on the anchors.
• Don't ever chip holds.
• Don't paint on any new initials.
• Retrobolting is acceptable only after consensus is reached with a large cross section of the 'KP' climbing community. New bolts that don't meet this criteria are chopped, often within a few days.