등정들 Southern Tablelands에서 Paul Frothy Thomson에 의한 sport-cpr 또는 ascent-date를 가진

3 attempts -never even got close to touching the brief (but gnarly) crux sequence. Could do all the rest clean at 26/27, but wouldn't ever have a hope in hell of putting it all together for a tick.

Great rock, and awesome, steep climbing up a series of linked features. A bit more "conventionally grovelly" than most of the harder routes at Bungonia (which might explain why I could actually do most of it).

Good to clean-up this old dog with no major issues today. An inconsequential start leads to improbably steep roof-climbing which is surprisingly easy (despite appearances), and a punchy headwall on beautiful rock. I can't wait to try the upper pitches.

Came back for the crux pitch. A proper mega-classic pitch in its own right, and I was psyched to dispatch this without any difficulties today (as I remember it being quite gnarly). Awesome steep jugging, with a truly radical finale pocket-and-driveby sequence with oodles of air below you.

A big day out when dealing with only 10 hours of daylight. Pitches are of mixed quality (which is to be expected), with 4 classic pitches, 3 good pitches, and 2 junk pitches. Pretty happy with my linkage despite our "onsight or bust" rule, considering no-chalk or traffic on this. Linked the crux of P5 and all of P6 for a more rational pitch (the weird boulder problem at the end of the giant traverse is strange, the belay should be at the end of the traverse). Got quite scared on this runout wandery epic. Came really close on the onsight of P7 just bungling a move right near the end when I didn't see a sneaky sidepull. The crux P8 is radical, but quite contrived (can climb direct at ~27, though you miss out on the rising traverse tufa-blob climbing). All in all, an entertaining adventure.

With Carlos. 6.5 hours from starting up to touching back down. A full Bungonia 3-star route if you stop at the end of P4. Or 2 stars if you go to the top. The top is still okay climbing, but the rock quality is generally utterly rubbish, and detracts from the experience. P1 - 2nd Clean. Essentially just a runout access pitch. Nothing special, nothing terrible. It looks like there might be the possibility for a superior (and harder) 1st pitch on better rock nearby? P2 - Red Point (fell off the cruxy roof-turn. Worked the move. Came down and went up and Sent the whole pitch without rest). A cool pitch, but extremely cruxy. The moves to get to and turn the roof, get established on the face, and the friction slab above are pure class. P3 - 2nd Unclean. Very hard. Closer to 27 than 26. Tricky 23 into hard V6 into more tricky 23. The start is engaging climbing up a steep-ish groove, leading to complex traversing on thin holds. The crux boulder-problem is insecure, demanding, and extremely powerful on hideous holds and non-existent feet. I never managed to stick the last dynamic move to gain the flake. If this boulder was at ground level it would be a mega-problem in precisely my style. After the boulder it's very pumpy steep face/crack climbing leading to the ultimate red-point killer move to get the cave belay. Awesome cave. P4 - Onsight. Runout, but brilliant sustained slabbing. Wandery, exposed, committing, airy. The epitome of a limestone slab pitch. P5 - 2nd Unclean (blew the final moves to the anchor, just too damn pumped to hang onto the jugs! Would definitely have gone with another shot. But it was dark and we were out of time). The rock is quite terrible, the bolting is annoying, but the climbing is rad. Very shoulder with complex footwork. Short but punchy. Intriguing. P6 - Onsight. The low-point of the route. 6m brilliant perfect limestone corner-climbing, and 20m of runout poxy-rock (but some okay moves). Still, if you've come this far, you might as well finish it.

Pretty funky climbing for a short route, with jugs where you don't expect them, and a surprising amount of steepness.

3 laps. Came as close as you can come to ticking this, without actually ticking it. I slipped off halfway through the final move. Aside from the poxy second bolt (crazy corroded!), this is an awesome climb. Maybe not as much "fun" as Air Malta crux, but more of a "climber's climb" of funky steepness, demanding more than just bulky forearms to get up it.

P1 only. Flashed on top-rope solo, but didn't have the time or the energy left to properly suss the gear for the true redpoint, so opted to climb it on pre-placed trad. The gear is all there, though R-rated levels of "spaced", but it could quickly work it's way towards "X" if you didn't find the placements en route (they're often kinda cryptic, fiddly, and unlikely... though generally satisfactory). I'll have to come back to tick this placing the gear, as it is a whole other world of exciting to do it in that style.

Surprisingly steep, slippery and technical in the first half, then balancy and insecure in the second half. Amazing rock and climbing, extremely sustained, and quite the sandbag at the grade. Bring extra endurance.

Thanks to the crew for working to resurrect this classic!

One of the best "soft sandstone" routes of its type I've ever done... A shame that the rock deteriorates towards the top (and that it isn't longer). Didn't feel too hard for a 23. Awesomely polished compact slopers, that ALMOST climbs like a Taipan-esque "water groove" route, completely with stemming and rad body positions. Thoroughly enjoyable.

Pitch 4 is a classic, the rest is mostly good/very good. P1:2nd Clean (with Neil's beta at the bouldery crux bulge); P2:Onsight (Okay slabbing to some fun steepness at the end); P3:2nd Clean (long, pleasant slabbing with crux start); P4:Dog (falls in 4 sections working it out. Would go 2nd shot if we didn't have a queue behind us); Radical steepness with amazing moves; P5:2nd Unclean (1 fall at the end. Pack and Heat contributing). Thuggish with a hard finish. P6:Dog (punted a slab move). Slabby

With JengA. As part of Iron Curtain and Screaming Tribesman for 350+m of climbing! A GREAT mixed bag of climbing. P1 - 2nd with rests (nails first 2 bolts, then pumpy tufa awesomeness); P2 - Onsight (Bushwalking); P3 - 2nd Clean (Hard, technical slab climbing. Very sustained. Really good.); P4 - Dog (Sustained face climbing. Mostly great); P5 - 2nd Clean (Ho Hum climbing. Unmemorable); P6 - Onsight (Fun steepish jugging, with a boulder problem at the top). A great adventure of high quality.

3rd shot. Feels quite easy at the grade. The top crux isn't that hard but -for me- could only be climbed with one specific sequence, and any slight alteration to that sequence made it impossible (hence the 3 shots). Short and powerful. Not classic like Los Hermanos, but less intense.

2nd shot. The obvious single-pitch linkup of the best parts of Slow Twitch into the best parts of Sluj Gulpa with an extra bolt and a tricky techy traverse boulder-problem to link the two. The new climbing is harder than any move on either route, and puts you in the thick of Sluj Gulpa without the stances. Some rock still to cleanup on the traverse, but all the crucial holds (that I used) won't break off, so as this climb cleans up it will just get better. Sure, I'm biased, but this line rocks!

Quite enjoyable. A lot of climbing and moves for a short climb. Funky (mud) tufas with a tricky last move. The rock quality is actually pretty reasonable for Bungonia. Might be soft-ish at the grade? Definitely worth a lap.

One of the best easier-grade pitches of climbing I've ever done in Bungonia. Immaculate rock for the 1st half, then deteriorating afterwards. Fortunately the whole climb has consistently GREAT climbing with a huge variety of engaging moves. Thoroughly recommended.

Stoked! First shot of the day placing the draws, and climbed as an uninterrupted 40m pitch from the ground. Not hard at 25 if you're a technical stemming master, but damned tough at the grade if your not (fortunately I'm right in the middle of that scale). Demanding climbing, and super-weird and technical. Tackling the crux sequence in the last 3m of ~40m of climbing is mentally taxing, especially considering the absurdity of the required moves. I HAD to come back for the send of this beauty.

Very pleasant climbing, despite the hard moves off the ground. Another climb that gets better as it progresses, and the slimper finale is a good test of your endurance. Great!

This pox should never have been bolted. Dirty, loose, fragile rock, bolted to induce ledgefall potential, and unpleasant climbing from start to finish. I wouldn't wish this on my worst enemies. Both Gene and myself removed kilograms of loose rock as we climbed, and Gene almost decked out as a jug ripped while clipping the 2nd bolt. Atrocious.

Hard moves between the 1st and 2nd bolt, then getting progressively easier as you go. Enjoyable slabbing, and the rock isn't as sharp as its neighbours. Quite long.

2nd shot. Went quite easily one the second go. The flash ended on the last move to the end. An action packed, intense 6m of climbing with 2 trickly sequences requiring some interesting footwork (and super-secret JengA beta). Better than I expected considering its contrivitae.

2nd shot today, in the dark with a headlamp. The slab was so wet that it was scary, and everything was spoogy, but that only made the tick more worthwhile. Soft as, but still fun. Glad to tick this cause it's not usually my style.

Best route I climbed all day. Went down 3rd shot. I think this would be difficult to onsight. Great climbing with a dynamic, committing crux down low and a technical, crimpy crux further up. Quite long, unerringly interesting, and on great rock. Perhaps the crag classic?

Classic friction slabbing on GOOD rock. Would probably be a 19 at Tarana, but in reality 21/22 is probably more in line with modern grading. Sustained, technical and balancy. Genuinely pleasant to climb.

Climbed via the Lame Duck start. Really good (and difficult) climbing. I'm not ashamed to admit that I struggled a bit, though I got it clean.

Mixed feelings. 3 shots. Never found any of the hard moves (up to where the rock deteriorates) hard at all, including doing the "throw" move like an eliminate (avoiding the juggy flake of California Sunshine, and going straight up the face). It would be ALMOST a classic to here. But on link, with the super-fragile holds of the top disintegrating everywhere, and one rather illogical bolt placement fucking up my clip, it all went to hell, despite the climbing not being THAT hard up there. Hmmm...

P1 only. P2 and P3 look rad, but were wet. Amazing climbing with a hideously chossy (and ridiculously bolted) slab start, leading to outrageous and improbable roof climbing, and an awesome headwall. The 1st 2 bolts in the roof are stupidly positioned (and create epic drag). I struggled with a move mid-roof on the onsight, and rope drag at the lip of the roof, but linked all the awesome steep headwall. Rebolt.... SERIOUSLY!

Had no idea what this was, but it was DRY! Climbed the first 4 bolts (10m) to the MISSING 5th bolt, then tried to do the traverse left to the 6th bolt (without the 5th bolt) before breaking a footer and whipping off. Okay technical climbing to this point... but the bolt quality is rubbish, and the missing hanger makes the traverse ridiculous. Bailed from the 4th bolt.

The awkwardness and sandy slopey desperation of the first 3 bolts get the grade, after that it's pretty easy and quite good climbing. The climbing improves as the climb goes on, and it finishes at the appropriate spot.

Repeat. Warm-down straight after the Biafra tick. Not clean today (fell before the roof jug). Stellar climbing, as always.

Probably 21. Quite sustained and enjoyable (though SHARP!). The mid-height crux move is great, but quite tricky. Very funky slabbing.

Tough at the grade. Originally given 22? Felt at least solid 21 to me. Sustained, but with a definate (and rather hard) crux. Thin and facey the whole way, but still enjoyable. NOT a good warmup.

Better than it looks, and a more worthwhile addition than I expected. Bouldery start to some funky laybacking and smearing. The rock was so slippery that twice my smear-footers exploded but somehow I kept it together.

Thought I'd done this before, maybe not? A one-sequence-wonder, though that particular sequence is quite enjoyable. Went direct and didn't find it too hard. Work those feet!

Repeat. Maybe soft at the grade for the STYLE, but it still doesn't go easily. Radical slabbing which has classy footwork in all the right places. Despite this being more mossy than I've ever seen it before, it's still clean where it matters.

Still took me two shots today. Never found the crucial hold on the "top crux" and pumped out on the warmup. Went easy enough 2nd shot, but still feels quite 23. A real pumper with pretty good rock and a wide variety of moves. Rather sustained.

3rd pitch only, 1st shot today. After finishing up the Slow Twitch Extension (25), I rapped back to the hanging belay at the start of P3, and cruised it with John the Kiwi belaying (and his draws already on the route). Bloody brilliant climbing, and I'm stoked that I felt so-strong on it (after having climbed 3 x 25ish routes back to back). One of the best 23s out there.

The best pitch on Limestone I've climbed in Australia, and comparable in quality with even some overseas A-grade limestone climbs. Stemming, Tufas, Chandeliers, Roofs, Pockets, Weirdo blobs... MEGA! Just the one EOD shot (after 5 pitches of climbing, a 30m Jumaar, and a scary barely protected unnecessary traverse pitch). 2 falls on the Onsight attempt. A sneaky mid-height crux, and a tough bouldery top crux before the anchors. Pumpy. Will probably go in another shot or two. And WORTH the effort.

Repeat. 3 laps today throughout the day, with the condition of the climb getting rapidly worse in the pouring rain, but not much else to get on. By the end of the day everything was as slippery as ice. Still great fun, and kind of tough (though easier than I remember).

With Marek. This time it was his turn to tick the first two pitches (done in fine style), and I wanted a rematch at the tough top pitch. 1st Pitch - Clean Second; 2nd Pitch - Clean Second; 3rd Pitch - Dog, I took another monster whipper 10+m (this time finishing the fall upside down) 1m from the victory jug (trying to throw for it). Even after a rest, the top sequence is bloody nails (24?), and the top clip is almost impossible. I reccomend clipping a 60cm Runner on it when you rap in! AWESOME!

Monumental and visionary, absolute classic. With Marek. Decided to link P1 & P2 together (not recommended, due to bad fall potential for most of P2). P1 - Onsight but for a few false starts (wasn't too sure how the route started). Hard start, exciting traverse. P2 - Onsight. Hard start, very thin friction slabbing. P3 - Dog. After a titanic struggle, I took a nice whipper from next to the last bolt, 1m from the jugs. Pulled back on and clean to the top. Stellar pitch with everything you want!

Seconded all three pitches clean so JengA could go for the onsight. Short multipitching, but rad. 4th lap, and still loving it.

2 shots. The 2nd shot was in the bag until I suffered a silly footslip off a good footer. Pulled back on below where I fell off and made it to the top no worries. Frustrating, but good to know it's there for the taking next time. Short, but quite intense and with interesting moves the whole way. The rock quality and climbing degrades once you get into the seams, but the moves to GET there are stellar, technical weirdness. Too dark and WET for a 3rd shot today.

Second shot, and went pretty easily, though every minute of climbing demands full attention. Bouldery start, great technical slab (I wish it was longer!) to another bouldery sequence, then the looooong thuggy (but juggy) roof. Absolutely brilliant! Loved it.

Stoked! Second-shot at the end of the day. This climb felt so far beyond me on the first shot, that to get back on and power up it is a great feeling. Really good moves, more technical than powerful, and quite sustained until the roof. What makes this climb unique is that a lack of horizontal holds creates awesome body positions to capitalise on the vertical ones. Loved it.

Had to get back on this to clean up the old dog. Went easily today, but the funky climbing remains as memorable as before. If you could get rid of the sandy choss below the crux section I think that this climb would be flawless.

Technical and traddie. Probably not a good warm-up because it's so stance-friendly, but not bad for an easy short climb.