루트들 전통등반로서 Sydney Metropolitan에서

Minimal protection above 4m with gymnastic roof finish.

Wider corner then thin crack with good pro, stem or jam. Someone has recently (2018) painted RRR at the base.

Start: 3m right of Osso Buffo.

Pockets to small cam break, slab to medium break, then the fabled W'oonga topout - slopes and grit!

The real white wabbit lives on the cliff top further to the right, but you may need to pull one out of the hat to trad this lead out!

Over the overhang on prolific pockets and continue north. Could be cams there for a bold lead.

Traverse right from the runnel then up via fine firm edges and lips.

Start just left of large scoop, up and slightly right then follow left side of runnel to top

Line of least resistance up juggy wall with cams in breaks. Beware gritty slopes and missiles hurled from above. Might seem run out.

Up short ramp to crux move, pull on to face. Easy up slab to top passing sandy cave on left.

Start at BHOTM marking. Up using slots to pull onto face, unprotected slabby crux, very balancy. First bolt is quite high, possibly a cam placement lower in a pocket or horizontal break

Begin in the corner and moving right just below the little cave to then go straight up the face.

Stem up flared and sometimes wet corner, or wall either side. 2 carrot belay on left ledge.

Hard start to pleasant finish. Belay as for Weeping Corner/ The Crack.

1m left of Weeping Corner. Pull through the roof on good holds past a very old rusty carrot. Then continue up black streak between orange scoops.

Stiff move to start, up to traverse and exit up right side of cave via slung horns and bad rope drag. Cunning pro in pocket at base.

Tough start in front of where the tree meets the ledge. Climb up to the ledge and then up the crack next to the orange streak. Two good carrots at the top to set up top rope.

Marked undecipherable initials. hard stemming start, to an easy ramp, followed by a steep and stunning orange head wall.

Belay off carrot and small bollard 2m back from lip.

BEWARE there is a snake hibernating on a ledge on the head wall (Brown Tree Snake, Aug 2017). it is possible to use the ledge and climb around the snake, just don't put your fingers in too deep into ledge and wake the snake!

Start as for DWTS and veer right at head wall for a direct finish.

A steep start through hideous choss that leads to beautiful bomber orange sandstone. Don't let the start fool you! It's a stunner of a climb. It's roughly 20 from the ground up, for full value batman to first bolt and skip chossy beginning. 1 carrot on blank wall and medium sized cams in horizontal breaks. Two carrot belay.

Start as for T and move left once on ledge to arete and up to delicate slab finish. pink tricam on arete to prevent run out. 2 carrot belay.

Climb the funky arete using the crack and breaks for solid pro. "Counterintuitive climbing."

Start: 1m left of 'HJ'.

Gymnastic move over the overhang then easily up the juggy wall with cams in breaks.

Straight up past the prow.

Traverse the break at 3m from left to right with bomber cams.

Follow line of least resistance/direct up crack centre of wall. good gear. Fun beginner trad route.

Up corner of block to ledge, then up big pockets/edges to top out. Poor/no pro past block.

Softer start to "Vege Tale"

Start below the arete at the right side of the back wall. Climb onto ledge then up the arete on solid holds. BB. Inverted 0.75 placement in pod below layback flake.

Start below the overhang on the left side of the front wall. Boulder up and left onto the south wall, passing some bollards and several breaks (good cams) for a final challenging exit. DBB

Direct start 3m right of Cruel Fate Direct - nice boulder moves (20) lead to the bollard and continue up.

As for TD. Climb up to the large flake and move right and continue up. Tricky exit. DBB.

The top of the fishermans descent at southern end of crag. Delicate moves through 2 Ubolts to gain the left sloping crack then good gear to top DUB. Harder than it looks. Take care not to rip any holds off through the lower section

Start: 4m right of "Dry Reachin'" Up and diagonally left to the third BR thereof.

"Straight from rubbish tip to you"

Overhanging start and easy corner right of "Into the Shit".

Up the corner using medium to large gear. Stainless carrot belay 3m back from top.

Same start as 'Disparity', but traverse right along the break then up the left corner next to 'C'.

Up the right corner above the seepage. Sandy natural anchors. Toprope by slinging off rock features on top.

The obvious thin black flake around the corner from the previous routes. The base is often wave-washed.

"A 1970s-style five metre hand-crack ceiling about 50-80m north of 'Solidarity'. BB and Friend on small ledge. Out across roof, problematic exit, then more easily to top." [Sydney and the Sea Cliffs, 1991]

Up the middle of the yellow wall in the middle of the small bay. Dubious pro.

Start: 7m left of Mail Sorter.

1. Step off small boulder, right to small cave, over roof on bad flake, right along lip to corner, up wall and roof to crappy BB.

2. Delicately up left.

Start on right of roof crack, left into roof and layback out.

Halfway up Mail Sorter then right over roof and up wall.

Start: In corner right of Japanese Route. Up then traverse along lip.

Chossy corner.

Start: On blunt arete 5m right of Japanese Route behind giant block.

Past BR to ledge, left around overhang then wall. Rusted bolt and cam belay back well back.

Start: 25m right of Mail Sorter and 3m left of arete. Up and slightly right to roofs and up.

Up Wrinkle City to traverse line at 4m, right and up wall just left of arete, delicately to break, right around arete and up to rusted out belay.

Up undercut arete past rusted bolt.

Start: A bit right of "Hook, Line and G String". Short poxy overhung corner followed by even poxier headwall.

Start: 3m right of "Mal's Corner". Up and left over horrible sandy breaks.

Start somewhere in the middle of the wall left of the chimney. Up the crumbling horror show. Maybe 24 R xxx

Start just right of chimney at the southern end of main wall.

Start: Up choss chimney for a few moves, then right onto ledge. Clip ringbolt and overcome horrible undercut section on crimps to break. Straight up sandy wall (scary) to left facing juggy flake. Above this head right and finish up Daylight Shaving.

A left hand variant finish for Plumber's Mate. Needs a rebolt for the upper half. From flake after traverse head left and follow line of rusty BRs to rap point.

Needs a rebolt. A dirty black wall. Start about 5m right of Plumbers Mate. Delicately up slab (2 rusty BRs). Take care with rock and pro.

On the left of the chimney that forms the left side of the block left of the wall. You'll see 2 RB's (with matching carrots) which are the start of the climb. When you reach the "cute" crack above it's time for trad. There are double u bolts approx 25 meters into the climb which are in very good condition.

handcrack on east wall of chasm 30m north

Sea Level Traverse - North Bondi (1.5km, Grade 12?)

This southern section of coastline wraps it’s way around some glorious and beautiful ledge systems. It’s the easiest and least commiting of all the sections, with only one serious pitch of climbing. A great day out and a good adventure to bring a novice along.

From the North: Start at The Murk (golf course) descent. Its possible to explore up to 500m north of this section without ropes. Heading south from the Murk, you will quickly arrive at the first crux. A short rope and some cams will see you around it no problem, depositing you into the Bondi Main Wall Sport crag. For an alternative entry point, or to escape, the gully on its south will help you out. Another 500m of straightforward rock hopping to the south gets you to the second and last crux of this section. Some stainless bolts would make rapping this much easier but for now either trust the old carrot or ask your partner to second the pitch (hint: it goes downwards). Once you work your way to the bottom it is an easy jaunt back to the beach. Try to do this at low tide, the rockpools here are phenomenal, the best of the entire traverse.

From the South: From Bondi, begin your day on australia's most famous beach before diving immediately into australia's most beautiful rubbish dump. It’s pretty rough picking your way past the bogan hangouts but keep going, you just need to walk further than someone with a case of beer would. You can skip a lot of easy rock platforms by scrambling down at ben buckler. About 200m past the enormous boulders you’ll come to an impasse. At super low tide its possible to get around without ropes, but to stay dry, a 10m little pitch of grade 12 trad climbing will get you though. Beyond this pitch, another 300m of easy scrambling gets you to the main wall / sport crag. Either scramble out here via the gully on its south, or continue past the next, straightforward crux to scramble out via the golf course descent.

Bring a single rack of cams with extra in the #1-3 range, a 30m rope and a can do attitude.

The left most corner system, Very sandy and some pretty average gear, the top is the only redeeming feature

FA: Surely some ballsy 15 yr/old in the 50’s soloed this Linking up the best bits of cornered and reason, Quite a quality line, a great top rope number. Please avoid retro bolting the last few meters as the gear is bomber and it would be a shame to turn this historic area into a grid bolted gym.

Overall actually a really decent climb… if it were on bolts, theres about 2-3 good pieces on the whole route, all of them in the first few meters, this wasn’t discovered by the first ascensionist until he was meters from the top on some pretty average rock.

One of the best adventures you can have in Sydney. High quality climbing on good gear with excellent exposure. Keep in mind this is a mixed route on the sea cliffs, at least one member of your party should be very experienced placing gear. Wear helmets and bring head torches (although try not to use them as the houses that can see you, might call in a rescue on your behalf). Gets in shade from about midday onwards. Allow 5 hours car to car. Although it’s possible to climb the whole route with a single rack of cams and some draws, placing the wrong cam too early can easily leave you stranded without a belay anchor. Doubles of BD #0.3- #2 recommended, Nuts optional. All the gear placements are bomber and anything harder than grade 13-14 has bolts. Bring some extendable draws and a 60m rope.

The line climbs a corner system on the south side of the big buttress. If you reach the end of the ledge system you’re walking on, you’re about 150m too far.

Pitch 1 - 15m (17) Start on the ledge about 5m above the water and on the left hand side of the huge buttress. Place some gear for your belayer and start up the face trending left over the small void toward the U bolt at 10m. Good gear in the horizontal cracks although save a #2 for the mantle onto the belay ledge and some smallish stuff to build an anchor. (#0.3 - #0.75 all fits if you climb up a meter to place it)

Pitch 2 - 30m (16) Continue up the easy stemming corner with great cams and some decent large nuts. After about 15m trend right onto the face passing two U’s. Keep going up the face trending right and towards the arette on some of the nicest holds you’ll ever crank on (#2 -#4 work well in the horizontal cracks here). One more U bolt gets you past the last outrageously exposed mantle and to the next belay ledge. DBB

Pitch 3 - 10m (14) Easy climbing up the chossy band. Some gear low down and a couple U’s to help though the mantles. DDB on huge ledge

Pitch 4 - 12m (20 / 18m0) Crux pitch. Goes at 18 if you climb the aid ladder and rest on every bolt, otherwise, it’s a pumpy, footless grade 20 (with the ladder start) or if you’re 9ft tall it goes free at 24. Fully bolted from here to the top. It’s recommended to keep this pitch short (rope stretch) and belay at the close grassy ledge unless your second is confident they won’t fall down low. If you want to link pitches it is significantly safer to link the previous one in (3+4), rather than P4+5.

Pitch 5 - 17m (16) Traverse left and up following the (slightly run out) bolts with a nice exposed finish and a short vegetated scramble. DBB in the wall up high.

Pitch 6 - 10m After you’ve finished admiring the view exit by scrambling north into the bushes (pack your gear back into your bags here). Keep traversing north for about 50m under a small waterfall and through a wave like overhang. Boulder out the last couple ledges at the solid golden rock flake (tricky enough it can be worth considering roping up) before jumping the fence and walking nonchalantly back to your car.

The original version of "Mostly Harmless". Climbed ground up onsight, before bailing out the thin cracks to the right of the fixed ladder at M3. Generally a more dangerous and worse way to climb the cliff.

Sea Level Traverse - The Mattings (1.5km Grade 21 or 18 M1)

From the North: Open project

From the South: Starting from the base of the matting descent, scramble fairly easily south for approx 400m until the ledge system narrows out. Just before it becomes dangerously thin spot the line of bolts dotted up the chossy wall. P1. French free up these for 15m to cramped belay under roof. P2. traverse this sloping sandy ledge system south for approx 80m past a few scary moves. P3. Spot a couple more screws leading up a small 2.5m ledge with sloping top out then head south for another 40m over the remnants of a recent landslide. P4. Follow this ledge system around the corner before heading up some thin ledges and backtracking slightly north for a few meters. Climb the very exposed but easy 2.5m wall with a screw or two. P5. Take the grassy ledge south for another 100m or so trending slowly upwards on a delicate soil ramp. This run continues for a while more with a very delicate traverse on a paper thin ledge 50m off the ground (by far the worst rock of the whole seacliffs). P6. Spot the cramped sandy cave up high and delicately climb up into it and rapping back out of it with a single screw on the other side. P7. Easily walk the next 100m to the end of the ledge take the free hanging rap 26m off the single screw to the exposed ledge system below. P8. Scramble another 50m south on this ledge before taking the final 20m rap to the ground of another screw. From here easily scramble south for another 500m using some old fisherman hardware here and there. Scramble out at the Bondi golf course or continue on into the last section of the traverse (another 1km or so with some easy cruxes, finishing at Bondi beach).

Reasonable trad climbing, start 4m R of the biggest boulder. Hard start to Ubolt then up cracks and breaks to ledge at 4 m (this is a new direct start, the old route traversed in easily from atop the big boulder). Up rounded corner, double ropes help as there's a god crack 1m right. Belay possible on ledge (Ubolts and a big cam).

Head up and right up wall, (Ubolt, carrot) and up a short dirty corner (Ubolt) step left to next corner under a roof. Head left (Ubolt) under the roof then continue up crack, Ubolt and traverse right to belay. Short finish scramble.

Sea Level Traverse - Rosa To Ron’s (2km, Grade 17?) This section is arguably the most classic moderate adventure route in NSW. A great day out requiring great, but not perfect swell conditions.

From the North: - Cross the gap between Rosa Gully and Diamond Bay, one slippery section, nothing too tricky if the swell is low. - Traverse the slippery slot under the log of death (a couple of carrots), after walking through the cave on the other side, a small 6m rap is required to gain the lower ledge. - This lower ledge system will take you on a tour through time under bow wall crag. Mike laws artwork can be seen winding its way up the blankest, chosseist sections of rock. Crux 5 - This ledge system finishes under prowess. Either use the bolts here to gain the ledge then rap back down off one to the other side. Alternatively, whip out the trad gear and easily traverse this bit (provided its not soaked by the waves). - The simple walking tour continues from here past three cathedral like cave systems, some slippery traversing required but nothing too hard. - After about 300m, you’ll arrive under sanctum main buttress, and the bulk of the climbing in front of you Crux 4 - Scramble around the back of the sea cave and climb the little head wall on the far side. Traversing the ledge 5m up is much easier than saying low. - from here you have a couple options, either blast up the easy looking corner crack (grade 16 with a very hard grassy topout) or go south a couple more meters and rap down (needs bolts) to sea level again to wrap around to the south end of the big buttress you’re on. The crack on this far side looks much nicer to climb. A third option is to sidle around to the front of this buttress via a sandy ledge about 4-5m above the ledge you're on. its a bit heady on shit gear but the fastest way past this buttress. - Both options land you on a big ledge system. Traverse south about 15m and either rap 6m down to the lower ledge or climb 2m up to the higher option. This higher option needs bolts for a big 30m rap about 100m south, wereas the lower option can be abseiled with a 25m rope off an old fishermans spike. - Now that these paths have reconvened, scramble south for another 80m along a skinny ledge, building a belay off the old fisherman spike. It’s probably worth doing a micro 5m long pitch here and building a much better belay off the stainless spikes at the better ledge. - This next pitch goes at around grade 14 with bomber gear and great, balancy moves. Crux 3 - Another 100m of easy walking gets you to the last crux of this section of the traverse, buruwang main wall. - Theres a couple options here, either climb any of the routes that will get you up to the higher ledge (easiest is probably: Just one more bump, 12m, a pretty committing grade 22 mixed route), or… in the spirit of seacliff traversing, don’t go up, go sideways. This traversing pitch isn’t too hard, but is very pumpy, probably around grade 19, resting on gear makes it a lot easier, but it will give you a cardio workout nonetheless. - once you’re past buruwang main wall, its all easy walking and scrambling all the way to the mattings descent (huge fixed ropes). Exiting here makes for a great day out and a fairly easy 25min walk back to the diamond bay.

From the South: Reverse the above beta

Check your rope length - might require a 70m.

Mixed climb linkup. Joins the start of Pornflakes into Hourglass using the succulent horizontal hand crack. Climb up Pornflakes for 2 bolts and head left along crack which takes small to medium cams. Make sure to place enough gear to keep you off the deck as you are not high up! Strenously join Hourglass at the third bolt and rejoice as you clip bolts to the top.

FA was done as a pinkpoint.

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 2m right of V.

Head up the flake (manky BRs), then head left and up to a horizontal. Step right here and continue up (rotten BRs) then right again to a short crack.

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. Below the obvious crack in the middle of the orange wall, about 6m left of the ladder. An enjoyable and technical little outing, but unfortunately the bolts are pretty far gone (for a change!).

Mike Law 1980s

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. 1m right of SS. Head up and slightly right past break and corroded BRs. Continue to roof and finish up cracks.

Mike Law 1980s

Nice rock and gear. Start below the corner 5m right of TC and 3m left of ladder.

1. 15m (16) Up the corner (sling runner possible), onto 2nd big ledge and continue up cracks (crux) heading left at top (avoid the super easy corner on left). Lower off at 15m

2. 30m (15) Not worth doing this pitch, Continue up and slightly left on ledges.

Has a monster traverse along the lip of a roof. 3 good trad pitches and a wandery one.

1. 15m Start up Tourist Route, and then step right to crack on lip and up to belay on 2 rings.

2. 25m (16) Up wall past 2 bolts to mantel (little cams on right) and up to ledge (bolt to protect second). Walk left 10m and up tricky corner to belay at first step, 6m up. (There are highline anchors on top of the next block)

3. 20m (19) Traverse right 15m along fist sized horizontal (many cams) above space to skyline, then up little corner and bolt to mantel at more highline anchors. Streno.

4. 10m (19) walk up to bulge behind. Start right of fallen boulders. Up into 'hook' and up, right 1.5m to only finishing hold. Streno

The following climbs all start either above or below the walk around ledge (which is accessed by the ladder that is located just here). Take care on the ladder...

Climbs the rightmost of the 3 cracks through the roof. Doddle up ladder, then continue slightly left and up to roof. Jam through this up the thin crack then continue up to cave (manky BB), or traverse left to loweroff on Tourist Route.

1. 10m Climb face crack 10m R of the ladder. Tricky first move to good wire. A nice pitch of 17

2. 12m Stick clip bolt then up corner, good hand sized cam on right arete at top, then left to lower off.

On the walk around ledge, 30m right of the ladder, below an arete. The original description describes this climb as "coronary country". I hate to think what it must be like now, after 40 more years of weathering!

1. 20m (21) Jump to gain wall, then dangle right and up (BR) to corner. Follow arete to ledge (corroded BB).

2. 20m (19) Head up and left and follow scrappy corners to the top.

Trad first pitch, great rock and a bit punchy. Walk around at low tide, or rap down from ledge straight below Obscurity. Start just left of a finger undercling flake (A Certain Flare).

The obvious smooth flake, 2m right of Obscurity trad pitch (down at sea level)

1. Climb the flake to the walk around ledge. May be a lot easier with modern small cams

Start below right tending ramp, just past the arete approximately 60m right of aCF (approx. 100m from the ladder). Scary. The first pitch has been retrobolted as Part of the Last wave

1. 15m (18) Up ramp , step right around the arete, then follow the thin crack up to a belay ledge all Ubolts now.

2. 30m Follow corner for approximately 5m, then easily left to belay on slab below roof (manky BB).

3. 30m Climb up slab and V crack then left to ledge. Head straight up from here, then step right to another crack. Follow this to the top.

Mikl Law 1970's

Hard death route unless it gets rebolted. About 3m right of KC.

1. 40m (21) Climb up, veering left to bulge (crux). After this, continue up and right past assorted fixed protection (all badly weathered) to belay in a corner that breaks through the rooves (manky BB).

2. 30m Head up corner, then traverse left around the arete and on for about 8m. Wander up to top.

Mikl Law 1980's

At the base of the obvious low angled corner crack. A shame the good bit is so short!

Easy moves (often wet) up the low angled corner crack to a stance. Great laybacking on good rock up to and through the small roof to the top (take some fist size cams). Cam and Ubolt belay

An ancient, rotting aid route just right of the corner. All that's left are bolt holes and rusty little blobs of metal.

The first of two climbs to traverse the horizontal breaks on the wall.

Up TC to the top break. Follow this right across the wall. Finish up AW.

The high traverse route.

Up TC until level with the lower break. Hard move to gain break then follow it right. Finish up AW.

Start below the corner at the right hand end of the big cave. Up the bird shit encrusted corner and skirt right around the roof to an old rap station.

Up easy corner (right of 'Honeycomb Arete') and sustained through the crack corner above ledge at half height.

The obvious short corner and roof about 10m right of the ladder.

Small wires up the corner and through the roof (a #3 camalot is useful). Up past large ledge to DUB lower offs.

0.5m right of SM.

Bouldery moves up the blank wall then left to SM (RB), or continue up right (no pro). No protection down low. (Solo on F/A)

0.5m right of SP, below thin crack.

Great climbing up the crack (wires, manky PR, BR) and wall to the chossy break (BR). Continue up the pleasant grey wall above (large BR - some bolt brackets don't fit) to the chossy break just below the top. Natural belay (take slings). Would be worth 2 stars if it had a little less choss!

Marked. 3m right of T at the blocky corner perched above the filthy pond. Don't know where it goes exactly! Straight up looks unprotected and reasonably difficult. Following the ramp to the right up the gully then up the upper corner looks unpleasant.

Opposite T.

A line of chips that finishes at the first choss break. No pro.

Often wet, climbs the wall and horrendous undercling flake 10 Mm L of Rupture. Needs gear

A reverent and exciting re-enactment of an old fisherman's route. Start at weakness 15m L of CC, around L edge of Bow Wall. Up and R, no pro, to ring anchor. An access route to the top of Sea Kwarry.

Big corner about 60m north of The Last Wave. corroded gear and rotting flakes

they used to tip rubbish includin concrete down here. Line. obvoius hard

rap 35m off the fence (+ backup) sth of Macquarie light and north of Christensen park. rusted bolts and cams