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접속점 |
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Dudley
Bouldering from lowballs to highballs on rock that varies in quality from boulder to boulder. Landings can be flat or very sketchy. The gorgeous location makes up for the often sharp and friable rock. Climb with an awareness that you will most likely encounter loose holds and sandy choss - sounds fun right! Test holds before you crank on them! Some surprisingly solid rock at times. Routes are listed in the order you encounter them walking in from the northern end (glenrock lookout). Anything listed as a project is of course open. Some have been tried and others are just suggestions for lines. |
Northern End
The highest rock quality and density of boulders for this stretch of coast. Captain boulders and some others are still available at high tide. |
Northern End |
Boulders Ahoy
First decent sized boulder encountered. |
Proposed Route 1
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 2
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 3
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
"We Have Boulders At Home" Boulder |
V0
Blink and You'll Send It
Start with left hand on edge and right hand on good side-pull. Up you go. |
V1
I Must Be Emo
Start in good horizontal break at mid-height, left to side pull and up. Easier with the ledge on the right, more fun without. |
Rocket Block |
V1
Red Rocket
Start low in pockets, up to the rounded arete. |
Squat Block |
Proposed Route 6
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Captain Boulders |
V3
★ Captain Hook
Sit start low in pockets. Up past juggy slot to top out. |
V2
★ Captain Crocs
Start on low undercling between the two boulders. Move straight up to diagonal rail and straight up again to top out. The boulder to the right is out. |
V1
★ Captain Morgan
Low sit start on jugs. |
V0
Captain Underpants
Low sit start on jugs. |
V2
★★ Captain Planet
Low sit start with sidepulls in middle of face pointing to sea. Up and over. |
V1
Captain Jack
Sit start with left hand in the pocket, up the arete. |
V0
Captain America
Sit start below the big pocket, then move up through it. |
V3
★ Captain Pineapple Slut
Hard undercling/sidepull start, up past crimp and sidepull to the top. Right arete is out |
Loosey-Goosey-Roofy |
Rooflet Will Fall
See whats left when the roof falls off. |
Arete
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Snot Block |
Proposed Route 7
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 8
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
The Bubble Ramp |
V0
Flake
Sit to right of flake and avoid block to left. |
Proposed Route 9
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 10
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 11
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
V2
★★ Dippin Slots
Right hand mono, left hand undercling start. Up using the crack to topout. |
V1
Double Double, Toil and Trouble
Start on shallow pockets halfway up ramp with a heel up. Straight up to topout. |
V3
★ Fire Burn and Cauldron Bubble
Start as for DDTAT, following the ramp right and up to the lip. Then traverse right on decent holds without feet below until you reach the right-hand arete, then top-out. |
Mundian Block |
Proposed Route 12
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Brittle Arete
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
V1
★★ Mundian To Bach Ke
Sit start with undercling to the right of the fin feature. Follow the line of least resistance with decent holds straigt up to top-out. |
V1
★ Mundian To Bach Ke Remix feat. DJ Hemo
Start with kneebar between fin and starting hold of MTBK. Then up left of the gouge. |
V1
Mundy and Tobaccy
Sit start hugging the arete below the right-hand pocket. |
Proposed Route 13
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
V1
Hot Kool Aid
Low sit, move into pocket and up to the apex. |
V1
I'd Like To Speak To The Manager
Sit and up left onto slab . |
Satan's Block |
V2
Knee-Slapper
Sit start on jug in groove. Up to slopey topout. |
Satan's Handjob Project
Start matched on feature on right hand side. Sidepull out left and jug up on right. Sharp, tough low start. |
V0
3 Dimensions
Sit start on edge, then follow the fallen arete up. |
Curvy Boulder |
V1
Curvaceous
Sit start on jug with awkward feet, up right to crimp and jug to top out. |
Now I am become Death, the destroyer of hands
Hard, awkward start. Undercling pocket up to massive jug pocket ringed with sharp rocks. |
Stationary Block |
V0
Weakly Stationary
Sit start on crimp rail, up right to sloper and pinch. Don't use the other boulder beneath for feet. |
V1
Strongly Stationary
Sit start as for WS, up to sloper and left. Pinch rail is out. |
Novocastration Project
Start way under the boulder in pocket, and make way up overhang to top out. Tough and sharp. A low tide affair. |
Get Low Boulders |
How Low Can You Go Project
Start low under boulder with right hand on pocket/pinch and left hand undercling. Two very reachy moves to the top. |
V1
Toll Booth Willy
Sit start low with left hand in big side-pull and right hand in small divot. Smear feet and upsy-daisy. |
V1
Dinga-Dinga
Start matched on groove on lip with heel out right. |
Spray Boulder |
Pebble Project
Start as for beta spray, then left onto face and up. |
V2
Beta Spray
Start low on crimps and mantle the ledge or use crimps above. |
They're Theirs Over There |
V0
They're
Start matched on bulb. Up to lip then left to topout. |
V0
Their
Sit start, straight up. |
V0
There
Start on jug and up left hand side of large boulder. |
Softy's Block |
V2
Big Softy
Start low in pockets. Up past crimp rail to top. |
Middle
Can be accessed from either end, though the southern approach is better if this is your destination. Boulders are more scattered and generally of a lower quality than the northern end, but still some fun to be had. Routes are listed as encountered from the southern approach. |
Middle |
Proposed Route 1
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 2
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 3
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 4
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 5
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 6
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 7
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 8
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 9
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 10
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Southern End
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Southern End |
Proposed Route 1
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 2
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 3
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 4
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 5
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 6
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 7
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
Proposed Route 8
Many, but not all of the boulders are only accessible at low tide. Treat the ocean with respect as the waves can sometimes crash higher than you may expect when your attention is on the boulders. |
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