접속점들 Glenrock Lagoon에서

One of Newcastle's few climbing areas.

Small cave just below Leichhardt Lookout. Area was cleaned up and rebolted in September 2021 with a few new lines added as well. These lines will clean up with some traffic. Helmets strongly encouraged in the mean time. Grades are still up for debate.

NB: There was lots of rubbish in the area, likely accumulated over the years from the lookout above. If people could please pack a piece out everytime they visit, we can get this area sparkling clean in no time.

Start at the far right hand end of the large cave below flake. Step up on ledge, then crank off delicate flake, past pocket to slopper ledge, up to chain anchor.

Pumpy for the grade. Start 10m left of GR, up bouldery start past slopers keeping left of the corner up to chains on roof

First climb at bottom of ledge just left of Suspect. This beginner climb has a little bit of everything! Start on the jug heading straight up to big pockets and the break underneath the roof, from here follow the break all the way around to the left and up onto the slabby ledge. Then straight up to anchor.

Climb on the left, joins Mallampati at the second bolt. Starts with hands on cracked block in the wall. Optional sit start from large round pocket for added spice.

Start as for Mallampati, but head straight up after the second bolt. Strong moves along edge of roof, finishing with a mantle to big ledge and anchors.

Climbs Propofol to the break then finishes up Code Blue - the final climb in this quartet. Takes in the better climbing available on this wall.

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

The route to the right of the cave.

Start as for Gimlis Gripe then traverse R to finish up adjacent route.

Follow the line of fixed hangers. Tough start then up on some good pockets. Be wary at start, the arch has moved and could collapse. You can start this route from the routes to the left or right.

Sustained face climbing with two crux moves. A key pebble broke off in 2014, making this route probably 24

Start: 2m left of GG

Sequential start leads to sneaky no hands rest then blast through to the top. Save something for the top

Start: 2.5m left of WITW. Up left of 2nd cave

Start as for hand shandy, straight up past some cool pockets to finish on anchors of TSCU.

Climb the left hand end of the wall past 3 rings trending left to anchors.

A long standing warm up, sit start on rock at base of arete then up and traverse right to finish at cave. Crimpy.

very technical, sustained and bouldery, and contrived. Climbing up the arete.

Climb right side of arete to 2nd bolt then move left above the honeycomb section to big moves to the top. Steep!

Slightly marred by sandy holds

Climb the overhanging arete on the right hand end of the chossy cave. Climbs well.

Climb grimy worm tongue, putting a very long sling on the anchor, then continue left to reverse the traverse of the Sods to its starting point under hobbits pockets without resting.

Mega line that covers some of the best territory at the crag! Shoot up Grimy Wormtongue, hooking left at the anchors to reverse the traverse, then pull the spicy mantle through the middle of the roof to gain the victory slab at the top. Lots of extended draws make life better.

Start as for Traverse of the Sods then in the middle of the cave punch straight up through the roof. Originally done with only the lower bolt at the lip. Extra bolt added 23/08/21 to reduce the risk of bad falls.

Slightly easier than TRBD and a good way to investigate the moves at the lip. Potential for a more difficult right hand variant if you take the pocket with your left hand and shoot straight up. Tough!

Traverse under roof from near Hiliary Step to finish on anchors for Grimy Wormtongue

As for Traverse of the Sods, but continue around the corner from the anchors of Grimy to finish at the anchors Kleptomania. A good stance at the anchors of OA leads into some slopey, smeary moves across the main wall. This section mostly stays with hands in the obvious break/band of pockets across the top (staying below most anchors). A variety of long draws and 60-120cm slings are useful.

Mantle block, up slab to head wall, grab 2 holds, lunge and then top out. No lower off

Start: left end of cave.

From the block, follow the line of 'heucos' to the top. A beginner favourite.

Short route behind the tree. 1.5m left of HP

Left side of the Hobbit Wall. Start immediately right of the fig tree. Straight up. Underclings then crimps. Still a little friable. Care clipping the anchors - maybe use a long sling first to reduce the fall factor.

Start at bottom left of wall near fig, to first bolt of Tolkien Effort, then diagonally right and up to first bolt of Entmoot, then to second bolt of HP and finish at anchor of HP.

Walk past the honey comb cave and descend down track with fallen tree for aid. The routes are steep but the rock is sandy and brittle in some areas. With more traffic this may improve. The wall catches the morning sun and can be hot in winter. Shaded in the afternoons.

Slab around the corner. Easy start with a technical, crimpy finish.

The thin arete.

Originally started off the block, but for full value start off the ground. Collect jugs up the flake to the head wall, then look for the useful holds and figure out how to use them to gain the lower off. Stout for the grade! Note: Repeated whipping at the crux (above the fourth bolt) has a tendency to wear the dogbone on the quickdraw. Consider protecting the dogbone and check your gear for wear after use.

start next to the big block. past 1 bolt, then a difficult move to gain the second, take care clipping. Continue up some nice moves to top.

Start 2m right of Risky Business. Up and slightly right of 1st u-bolt, then trend up & left to join Risky Business @ 3rd Draw. 5 U-Bolts & 2 U-Bolts for Loweroffs

Bouldery off the deck, best to stick clip first bolt. Start under Prime Time first bolt and move right past curved rail to flat edge. Then straight up, taking care clipping the third bolt.

Traverse slab then up flake through roof to hard to clip anchors

Start down low, up the slab past some big pockets and up steepening wall to anchors near fig tree roots.

A collection of all the linkups and alternate versions of climbs at fishbowl.

Start as for bedswerver, traversing across the jugs to finish as for Risky Business. Covers the easiest territory of both routes. Safer if you clip a long sling on the third bolt of bed swerver, the minimal drag is better than whipping into the boulder.

The Bed Swerver jugs not getting you pumped enough for the thin crux at the top? Take this link-up for a spin! Climb the first two bolts of Risky to the jugs, then traverse left and clip the third of Bed Swerver (extended) and up you go.

For those who aren't sick of the bed swerver crux. Wish prime time traversed further? No? Oh well. First 3 bolts of Prime Time, very long draw on fourth, keep traversing along jugs, then finish up Bed Swerver.

Nice direct finish to prime time up to anchors of Critical Mass.

Bouldery start and into flake

A crag near the waterfall with some interesting climbs. Discovered by Luke Yerbury during COVID, this area provides a great introduction to climbing. The ground can be fairly dirty, so bring a tarp / brush to try keep shoes/gear clean.

Nice climbing in a cool position. Start on big flat jug, up then carefully around onto face. Belay off trees or rap to clean. Carrots.

Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block.

Good climb to learn how to lead climb and warm up

Slab wall between the corner and #5 'Fried Lichen' arete climb. 3 ring bolts.

Start up the crumbly slab wall, horizontal through the pockets to the arete and onto the face. No using the left wall - stay on the face. Joins last bolt and anchors of F&F.

Climb the vertical wall just left of #7 'Roo Fing'. 3 ring bolts

Follow the cliff around from the Descent Walls. New area so expect loose rock in places.

First route encountered around from Ferns and Fings. Start directly below first bolt (can be clipped reaching across from the left) and up slab to juggy finish.

Up face below rooflet. Follow crack around and up. Tree belay. Cruxy.

Up onto ledge to start, then follow the right-most line of bolts. Shares first bolt with BS.

Start on ledge as for PP, then make move out left to large pocket and straight up. Top this one out for extra points.

Starts 2m left of PP. Up through thinness to mono, then right to good rail and finish as for BS. Leaving as a top rope due to the flaky nature of the holds.

Thin moves lead to an easier finish.

Follow the cliffline around from Ghost of Sparta. New area, expect some loose rock.

Starts on the arete on the left side of the overhang. Bouldery start into an easier finish.

Starts in the middle of the wall. Straight up the delicate slab.

Up passing the cave on the right. Good fun!

Starts to the left of the corner/crack at the base of the cliff. Climb carefully to, or stick clip first bolt. Cave to pocket then up and around left onto the arete, finishing on the anchors of OTUT. Can clip last carrot of OTUT on the way if you wish.

Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead.

More about convenience than anything else, the bouldering here is on soft sandstone blocks.

Below Flaggy Creek carpark is a small cave and a few blocs of varying quality. Its soft conglomerate sandstone so be careful after rain.

Obvious wall/cave under Flaggy Creek car park. Apologies to any Circa 2000's FA's as the information cant be located.

Waterfall bouldering area is small local crag that has some fun problems. Be warned, you will need to bring brushes to scrub the wall as the area will get flooded in heavy rains and collect a lot of silt and run off. There is a small wall and a good bloc. The large boulder often has water around it after rain. Has a couple of good steep problems. When standing above waterfall looking out, the bloc in down and left, just in view under the big tree. The wall when lookingh out is down and right.

This is directly under the main waterfall of Flaggy Creek. Problems are on the left of the waterfall feature. Bring brushes as rain will leave silt runoff over the wall and moss tends to build up over summer.

On the left side of the waterfall, sit start on big rail/edge, head straight up to finish with feet on starting holds

From same start as CC, head across right to arete and move up and around to blunt arete slightly around the corner. Then from good holds head back left to CC finish

Michelle eliminate problem.

Sit start for Michelle, but using crimp rail below obvious good rail, move right on small edges to gain small arete then some tricky moves led to good hold on blunt arete. Good rail is out for hands and feet

Start as for One Crow on jugs and traverse left as for DND. Where Dontolleo goes up, keep going left towards arete. Burly move guards link to arete. Climb up arete a little to big jug. Down climb over left to get off

Start on 2 good holds and average feet, move up to big ear/sidepull. From here up and left to good rail and then final moves up to crimp rail and match. Drop off

V5 or V6 take your pick, either way its great! Start on jugs for A Crow, traverse left to starting holds of Donotello. Now straight up and finish as for Donotello. Drop off.

JJ

This is the standing start to Crow. It’s a one mover, but still a great problem!

Use slopey ramp with left hand and side pull with right hand, pull on and pop up to good edge. Then across to right jug for a matched finish.

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

• A technical boulder
• Start sitting underneath start of Fight Milk, using left hand corner jug and right hand undercling edge just above the ground.
• Traverse out right using any holds and feet to 2nd last Donotello crimp rail and Donotello finish crimp. Right side of Donotello start is out. Two hands match crimp to finish.

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

Directly opposite the waterfall, you can just see the bloc under the tree when standing on top of the waterfall. Bring scrubbing brushes as moss will build up over summer. If climbing in Summer bring mossie coils and spray. Gets some filtered morning sun

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Sit start just right of crack, moves across to arete where ToL joins left hand arete.

Finish as for ToL.

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Sit Start 1.5 metres to the right of 'Tree of Life' hugging the roof. Right hand utilises the obvious right angle brick edge/pinch on the lip of the roof, left hand underneath in a small slot just above the flake. Launch out left via some cool moves dropping into the flake & start holds of Tree of Life. Finish as for this.

A short distance down the creek from the Waterfall boulders sits this curvaceous boulder.

Start low on sloper rail with heel out right. RH up to sidepull, then gain the arete and pull in for the juggy topout. Good tension required to not dab the big rock at the start.

Start on same rail as for burnouts. Move to the crimps out right (starting holds of skiddies) and up to jugs.

Squat start on good edges on the right. Follow RH arete to the top jugs to topout.

This lowball goodness sits just behind the burnout bloc. Start matched on slopey horizontal rail, slap the arete then topout. Separate block on the left is out.

Bouldering cave below middle earth

Sit start deep in the left side of cave on the furthest left jug. Follow the line of good holds out and around to the little corner, topping out up and left.

Start as for TCOM. Upon gaining the horizontal break, move left to finish as for GMOC. A classic 5 and a crag must do!

Proudest line of the crag! Sit start deep in centre of cave, on reddish coloured rock. Follow rail of jugs out to good sloper at lip, on the bottom of the small vertical face. Gain the horizontal break, reach up to obvious sidepull, then blast your way out the final roof to an exciting topout. Hard final moves.

Start as for TCOM. Upon reaching the horizontal break, move right to finish as for TEOS. Open Project.

Line between TEoS and TCoM, starting in the back of the cave on obvious bulge in cavity. Punches straight out to edges, finishes up and right, to same finish as TeoS on the flat ledge.