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Nodes in Glenrock Lagoon

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Node
Glenrock Lagoon

One of Newcastle's few climbing areas.

Centennial Glen-rock

Small cave just below Leichhardt Lookout. Area was cleaned up and rebolted in September 2021 with a few new lines added as well. These lines will clean up with some traffic. Helmets strongly encouraged in the mean time. Grades are still up for debate.

NB: There was lots of rubbish in the area, likely accumulated over the years from the lookout above. If people could please pack a piece out everytime they visit, we can get this area sparkling clean in no time.

Centennial Glen-rock
21 Glenrock Rubble

Start at the far right hand end of the large cave below flake. Step up on ledge, then crank off delicate flake, past pocket to slopper ledge, up to chain anchor.

22 Suspect

Pumpy for the grade. Start 10m left of GR, up bouldery start past slopers keeping left of the corner up to chains on roof

17 Mallampati

First climb at bottom of ledge just left of Suspect. This beginner climb has a little bit of everything! Start on the jug heading straight up to big pockets and the break underneath the roof, from here follow the break all the way around to the left and up onto the slabby ledge. Then straight up to anchor.

19 Propofol

Climb on the left, joins Mallampati at the second bolt. Starts with hands on cracked block in the wall. Optional sit start from large round pocket for added spice.

18 Code Blue

Start as for Mallampati, but head straight up after the second bolt. Strong moves along edge of roof, finishing with a mantle to big ledge and anchors.

19 Bag Valve Mask

Climbs Propofol to the break then finishes up Code Blue - the final climb in this quartet. Takes in the better climbing available on this wall.

Middle Earth

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

Middle Earth
19 Kleptomania

The route to the right of the cave.

18 Gollums Grope

Start as for Gimlis Gripe then traverse R to finish up adjacent route.

19 Gimli's Gripe

Follow the line of fixed hangers. Tough start then up on some good pockets. Be wary at start, the arch has moved and could collapse. You can start this route from the routes to the left or right.

23 Watcher in the Water

Sustained face climbing with two crux moves. A key pebble broke off in 2014, making this route probably 24

Start: 2m left of GG

22 The Stairs of Cirith Ungol

Sequential start leads to sneaky no hands rest then blast through to the top. Save something for the top

Start: 2.5m left of WITW. Up left of 2nd cave

23 Scotch on the Glenrocks

Start as for hand shandy, straight up past some cool pockets to finish on anchors of TSCU.

22 Hand Shandy

Climb the left hand end of the wall past 3 rings trending left to anchors.

V2 Main wall traverse

A long standing warm up, sit start on rock at base of arete then up and traverse right to finish at cave. Crimpy.

25 Odysseus Arete

very technical, sustained and bouldery, and contrived. Climbing up the arete.

24 Grimy Wormtongue arete start

Climb right side of arete to 2nd bolt then move left above the honeycomb section to big moves to the top. Steep!

Slightly marred by sandy holds

24 Grimy Wormtongue

Climb the overhanging arete on the right hand end of the chossy cave. Climbs well.

24 Grimy traverse

Climb grimy worm tongue, putting a very long sling on the anchor, then continue left to reverse the traverse of the Sods to its starting point under hobbits pockets without resting.

25 The Red Bearded Dragon

Mega line that covers some of the best territory at the crag! Shoot up Grimy Wormtongue, hooking left at the anchors to reverse the traverse, then pull the spicy mantle through the middle of the roof to gain the victory slab at the top. Lots of extended draws make life better.

25 The Enthusiastic Enthusiast

Start as for Traverse of the Sods then in the middle of the cave punch straight up through the roof. Originally done with only the lower bolt at the lip. Extra bolt added 23/08/21 to reduce the risk of bad falls.

Slightly easier than TRBD and a good way to investigate the moves at the lip. Potential for a more difficult right hand variant if you take the pocket with your left hand and shoot straight up. Tough!

20 Traverse of the Sods

Traverse under roof from near Hiliary Step to finish on anchors for Grimy Wormtongue

21 Traverse of the Gods

As for Traverse of the Sods, but continue around the corner from the anchors of Grimy to finish at the anchors Kleptomania. A good stance at the anchors of OA leads into some slopey, smeary moves across the main wall. This section mostly stays with hands in the obvious break/band of pockets across the top (staying below most anchors). A variety of long draws and 60-120cm slings are useful.

20 The Hillary Step

Mantle block, up slab to head wall, grab 2 holds, lunge and then top out. No lower off

Start: left end of cave.

15 Hobbits Pockets

From the block, follow the line of 'heucos' to the top. A beginner favourite.

16 Entmoot

Short route behind the tree. 1.5m left of HP

19 Tolkien Effort

Left side of the Hobbit Wall. Start immediately right of the fig tree. Straight up. Underclings then crimps. Still a little friable. Care clipping the anchors - maybe use a long sling first to reduce the fall factor.

17 Tolkien's Pockets

Start at bottom left of wall near fig, to first bolt of Tolkien Effort, then diagonally right and up to first bolt of Entmoot, then to second bolt of HP and finish at anchor of HP.

The Fish Bowl

Walk past the honey comb cave and descend down track with fallen tree for aid. The routes are steep but the rock is sandy and brittle in some areas. With more traffic this may improve. The wall catches the morning sun and can be hot in winter. Shaded in the afternoons.

The Fish Bowl
25 Flatlander

Slab around the corner. Easy start with a technical, crimpy finish.

Dirt Boy, Danger Man

The thin arete.

23 Bed Swerver

Originally started off the block, but for full value start off the ground. Collect jugs up the flake to the head wall, then look for the useful holds and figure out how to use them to gain the lower off. Stout for the grade! Note: Repeated whipping at the crux (above the fourth bolt) has a tendency to wear the dogbone on the quickdraw. Consider protecting the dogbone and check your gear for wear after use.

25 Risky Business

start next to the big block. past 1 bolt, then a difficult move to gain the second, take care clipping. Continue up some nice moves to top.

25 Prime Time

Start 2m right of Risky Business. Up and slightly right of 1st u-bolt, then trend up & left to join Risky Business @ 3rd Draw. 5 U-Bolts & 2 U-Bolts for Loweroffs

24 Critical Mass

Bouldery off the deck, best to stick clip first bolt. Start under Prime Time first bolt and move right past curved rail to flat edge. Then straight up, taking care clipping the third bolt.

20 Trents Flake

Traverse slab then up flake through roof to hard to clip anchors

19 I'm not gunna lie to you.....Nice

Start down low, up the slab past some big pockets and up steepening wall to anchors near fig tree roots.

Linkups

A collection of all the linkups and alternate versions of climbs at fishbowl.

22 Risk Swerver

Start as for bedswerver, traversing across the jugs to finish as for Risky Business. Covers the easiest territory of both routes. Safer if you clip a long sling on the third bolt of bed swerver, the minimal drag is better than whipping into the boulder.

25 Big Job

The Bed Swerver jugs not getting you pumped enough for the thin crux at the top? Take this link-up for a spin! Climb the first two bolts of Risky to the jugs, then traverse left and clip the third of Bed Swerver (extended) and up you go.

25 Big Dog

For those who aren't sick of the bed swerver crux. Wish prime time traversed further? No? Oh well. First 3 bolts of Prime Time, very long draw on fourth, keep traversing along jugs, then finish up Bed Swerver.

24 Cynical Bass

Nice direct finish to prime time up to anchors of Critical Mass.

22 Trents Flake- direct start

Bouldery start and into flake

Waterfall Area

A crag near the waterfall with some interesting climbs. Discovered by Luke Yerbury during COVID, this area provides a great introduction to climbing. The ground can be fairly dirty, so bring a tarp / brush to try keep shoes/gear clean.

Waterfall Area
A crag near the waterfall with some interesting climbs. The ground can be fairly dirty, bring a mat
21 Redrum

Nice climbing in a cool position. Start on big flat jug, up then carefully around onto face. Belay off trees or rap to clean. Carrots.

10 Carrot Top

Up on ledges passing carrots to tree belay. Beware of the loose block.

Descent Walls
16 Fried Lichen

Good climb to learn how to lead climb and warm up

17 Moss Monster

Slab wall between the corner and #5 'Fried Lichen' arete climb. 3 ring bolts.

20 Roo Fing

Start up the crumbly slab wall, horizontal through the pockets to the arete and onto the face. No using the left wall - stay on the face. Joins last bolt and anchors of F&F.

18 Ferns and Fings

Climb the vertical wall just left of #7 'Roo Fing'. 3 ring bolts

Follow the cliff around from the Descent Walls. New area so expect loose rock in places.

Follow the cliff around from the Descent Walls. New area so expect loose rock in places.

14 Sharon is Karen

First route encountered around from Ferns and Fings. Start directly below first bolt (can be clipped reaching across from the left) and up slab to juggy finish.

18 Final Destination

Up face below rooflet. Follow crack around and up. Tree belay. Cruxy.

18 Peeking Possum

Up onto ledge to start, then follow the right-most line of bolts. Shares first bolt with BS.

19 Bedtime Sillies

Start on ledge as for PP, then make move out left to large pocket and straight up. Top this one out for extra points.

23 In a Monologue

Starts 2m left of PP. Up through thinness to mono, then right to good rail and finish as for BS. Leaving as a top rope due to the flaky nature of the holds.

21 Ghost of Sparta

Thin moves lead to an easier finish.

Follow the cliffline around from Ghost of Sparta. New area, expect some loose rock.

Follow the cliffline around from Ghost of Sparta. New area, expect some loose rock.

19 All Work and No Climb Makes Jack a Weak Boy

Starts on the arete on the left side of the overhang. Bouldery start into an easier finish.

19 All Climb and No Belay Makes Jack a Shit Mate

Starts in the middle of the wall. Straight up the delicate slab.

19 Super Nintendo Chalmers

Up passing the cave on the right. Good fun!

20 You are not the bose, I am the bose

Starts to the left of the corner/crack at the base of the cliff. Climb carefully to, or stick clip first bolt. Cave to pocket then up and around left onto the arete, finishing on the anchors of OTUT. Can clip last carrot of OTUT on the way if you wish.

11 One, Two, Umm, Three!

Follow the carrots up the broad arete. Move to good stance, clip, repeat. Nice beginner lead.

Bouldering

More about convenience than anything else, the bouldering here is on soft sandstone blocks.

Bouldering
Flaggy Ck Carpark

Below Flaggy Creek carpark is a small cave and a few blocs of varying quality. Its soft conglomerate sandstone so be careful after rain.

Bouldering Flaggy Ck Carpark
Cave Troll Wall

Obvious wall/cave under Flaggy Creek car park. Apologies to any Circa 2000's FA's as the information cant be located.

Bouldering
Waterfall Bouldering Area

Waterfall bouldering area is small local crag that has some fun problems. Be warned, you will need to bring brushes to scrub the wall as the area will get flooded in heavy rains and collect a lot of silt and run off. There is a small wall and a good bloc. The large boulder often has water around it after rain. Has a couple of good steep problems. When standing above waterfall looking out, the bloc in down and left, just in view under the big tree. The wall when lookingh out is down and right.

Bouldering Waterfall Bouldering Area
Waterfall Wall

This is directly under the main waterfall of Flaggy Creek. Problems are on the left of the waterfall feature. Bring brushes as rain will leave silt runoff over the wall and moss tends to build up over summer.

Bouldering Waterfall Bouldering Area Waterfall Wall
V1 Captain Carapace

On the left side of the waterfall, sit start on big rail/edge, head straight up to finish with feet on starting holds

V2 Michelle

From same start as CC, head across right to arete and move up and around to blunt arete slightly around the corner. Then from good holds head back left to CC finish

V3 Turtle Power

Michelle eliminate problem.

Sit start for Michelle, but using crimp rail below obvious good rail, move right on small edges to gain small arete then some tricky moves led to good hold on blunt arete. Good rail is out for hands and feet

V7 Butt Rodgers

Start as for One Crow on jugs and traverse left as for DND. Where Dontolleo goes up, keep going left towards arete. Burly move guards link to arete. Climb up arete a little to big jug. Down climb over left to get off

V5 Donotello

Start on 2 good holds and average feet, move up to big ear/sidepull. From here up and left to good rail and then final moves up to crimp rail and match. Drop off

V6 Definitely not Donotello

V5 or V6 take your pick, either way its great! Start on jugs for A Crow, traverse left to starting holds of Donotello. Now straight up and finish as for Donotello. Drop off.

JJ

V6 Who the F@#€ is Donotello?

This is the standing start to Crow. It’s a one mover, but still a great problem!

Use slopey ramp with left hand and side pull with right hand, pull on and pop up to good edge. Then across to right jug for a matched finish.

V8 A Crow Left of the Murder

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

V6 Archangel
  • A technical boulder
  • Start sitting underneath start of Fight Milk, using left hand corner jug and right hand undercling edge just above the ground.
  • Traverse out right using any holds and feet to 2nd last Donotello crimp rail and Donotello finish crimp. Right side of Donotello start is out. Two hands match crimp to finish.
V11 Fight Milk

Start on flat jug at the left of the wall. Reverse Butt Rodgers and continue up A Crow Left of the Murder. Rather than going right to the jug, keep moving straight up to finish on crimp rail.

Bouldering Waterfall Bouldering Area
Tree of Life Bloc

Directly opposite the waterfall, you can just see the bloc under the tree when standing on top of the waterfall. Bring scrubbing brushes as moss will build up over summer. If climbing in Summer bring mossie coils and spray. Gets some filtered morning sun

Bouldering Waterfall Bouldering Area Tree of Life Bloc
V2 Water Crack

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

V9 Tree of Life LHV

Sit start just right of crack, moves across to arete where ToL joins left hand arete.

Finish as for ToL.

V10 Tree of Life

A real hidden classic.

Sit start under the steep wall on the right side, at the big undercling.

Head up following some slopey ledges, then swing across to left side of bloc, tricky tension moves guard the finish up then onto the arete. Highly recommended to scrub the top, as this bloc doesn’t get much sun.

V1 Crumble

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

V2 Wet Butt

Located in Glenrock State Conservation Area, an area of ongoing importance to the traditional custodians, the Awabakal. There are numerous heritage sites scattered throughout the region. The land manager is the NPWS. Climbing is not recognised in the current plan of management, but will be incorporated in the 2021 plan. Climbers should be mindful of flora, fauna and cultural heritage and should not disturb these.

Chalk use should be minimised, and tick marks removed. Use headphones if you need music at the crag. Lookout for crag care days to help with bush regeneration and track work.

Expect to see waterdragons, monitors and snakes. Warnings don’t need to be raised every time a reptile is seen. Leave vegetated caves in cliff faces alone. A number of rare birds inhabit these eg powerful owls.

V11 Forbidden Fruit

Sit Start 1.5 metres to the right of 'Tree of Life' hugging the roof. Right hand utilises the obvious right angle brick edge/pinch on the lip of the roof, left hand underneath in a small slot just above the flake. Launch out left via some cool moves dropping into the flake & start holds of Tree of Life. Finish as for this.

Bouldering
Burnout Bloc

A short distance down the creek from the Waterfall boulders sits this curvaceous boulder.

Bouldering Burnout Bloc
V3 Burnouts

Start low on sloper rail with heel out right. RH up to sidepull, then gain the arete and pull in for the juggy topout. Good tension required to not dab the big rock at the start.

V2 Tip It In

Start on same rail as for burnouts. Move to the crimps out right (starting holds of skiddies) and up to jugs.

VB Skiddies

Squat start on good edges on the right. Follow RH arete to the top jugs to topout.

V1 Peel Out

This lowball goodness sits just behind the burnout bloc. Start matched on slopey horizontal rail, slap the arete then topout. Separate block on the left is out.

Bouldering
Moria

Bouldering cave below middle earth

Bouldering Moria
V4 General Mislav's Operation Chicken

Sit start deep in the left side of cave on the furthest left jug. Follow the line of good holds out and around to the little corner, topping out up and left.

V5 The Chamber of Mazarbul (Left Variant)

Start as for TCOM. Upon gaining the horizontal break, move left to finish as for GMOC. A classic 5 and a crag must do!

V7 The Chamber of Mazarbul

Proudest line of the crag! Sit start deep in centre of cave, on reddish coloured rock. Follow rail of jugs out to good sloper at lip, on the bottom of the small vertical face. Gain the horizontal break, reach up to obvious sidepull, then blast your way out the final roof to an exciting topout. Hard final moves.

The Chamber of Mazarbul (Right Variant)

Start as for TCOM. Upon reaching the horizontal break, move right to finish as for TEOS. Open Project.

V6 From the Shire

Line between TEoS and TCoM, starting in the back of the cave on obvious bulge in cavity. Punches straight out to edges, finishes up and right, to same finish as TeoS on the flat ledge.

Showing 1 - 100 out of 145 nodes.

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