A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Murray Jason Lammers Lachlan S Bing George B Matt Short Alex Rogers Tom Bes Brendan Heywood Wall
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
어떤 내용들은 ~로부터 허가아래 제공되었습니다. © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
Table of contents
- 1.
The Cathedral
115 in Crag
- 1.1. The Wedges 27 in Field
- 1.2. Main Crag 88 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Cathedral 115 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
스포츠 클라이밍, 볼더링 그리고 other styles
Lat / Long: -34.023072, 151.030601
설명
Online guide http://sydneyclimbing.com/The+Cathedral.html
The Cathedral just off the banks of the Woronora River in the heart of the Shire. It's is possibly the highest crag in Sydney town with a height of 30m in some sections, with great rock its hard to think why the crag does not get more visitors. This crag has something for everyone from 3star 28's, great sporty little 16s, and possibly the hardest trad climb in NSW.
접근 문제들
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
접근
If coming from Sutherland, drive over the Woronora Bridge over the river, then take the next left into Akuna (as for 'Bangor West' crag), follow this until it turns in to Menai Rd, turn left again into Pyree street, follow this until you are at Bangor school, then left again into Shackel Rd - this goes under a bridge. Park 20m past the bridge at the culdesac (4 Shackel Road, Bangor GPS -34.0217, 151.0296) - don't drive through the open gate and down the dirt road - that is private property. Now follow the track (marked with red and white tags) down the hill for 5 minutes to the top of the crag, then scramble down the right side.
Some people may perfer the original access, this involves a longer but easier (flatter) walk along the river.
"
To get to the crag, park in Prince Edward Park in Woronora (or walk down the hill from Sutherland railway station). Cross the footbridge, turn left and follow the track along the river for about 1km. Although you walk past the right hand slabs first, they aren't as obvious as the main wall, which looms above the track about 20m to the right. Bash up through the jungle to the base of the crag. Estimated walking time: 30 min"
1.1. The Wedges 27 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
모두 볼더링
Lat / Long: -34.022531, 151.030565
설명
Funky highball easy slabs (with anchors for toproping)
접근
Walk down 2 minutes as for the cathedral till you get to a little rock step. Go straight ahead under a little cave where the first problems are. Go 10m then down to the base of the first wedge.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Blind Fury
Start matched in the mini-cave to the left of 'Tufa One', resisting the urge to place feet on broken block. Move through the short cave onto face holds then up into break, moving right around the arete onto jug then top out. Set: Mikl FA: J. Budden, 3 9월 2014 | V4 | ||||||
2 |
★★★ Tufa One
Where you walk past a short overhang, this is the tufa-like line. Start in the back, thru roof, and up. FA: mikl, 2014 | V4 | ||||||
3 |
★★★ The Times and Crimes of Professor Cuntley
Stand-start on the slot jug on the right arete of the Tufa One bloc (back wall on for feet). Dyno to rounded nose on arete and move left, topping out as for Tufa One. FA: Brett Heino, 20 9월 2014 | V4 | ||||||
4 |
squirmilicious
Same start as TTCPC, but twist and thrutch you way up the right arete and chimney, with delicious knee-bars and rounded slopers. FA: Patrick Burr & Drew Ivison, 20 6월 2020 | V2 | 4m | |||||
5 |
★ Diagon-Alley Stand Start
Start on horns before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out Set: Tanner Graham FA: Lachlan S | V0+ | 2m | |||||
6 |
★★ Diagon-Alley
Sit start on ledge, move up to horn before dyno to lip of arete. Mantle top out Set: Tanner Graham FA: Lachlan S | V1 | 2m | |||||
7 |
★★★ Diagonally up Diagon Alley
Sit start matched on low jug. Move left up ledge to horn, finish as of ‘Diagon Alley’ FA: Tanner Graham | V1 | 3m | |||||
8 |
Thrown Floo Powder
Stand start on head height horns. Juggy top out Set: Tanner Graham FA: Lachlan S | V0 | 2m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
Project
start on ledge in cave, use sloping lip. V4 probs | 3m | ||||||
10 |
Leather JacKet
Low start on jug in ledge Set: Lachlan S | V1 | 2m | |||||
11 |
Leather JacKet Dyno
start as for 'Leather JacKet', Dyno to top skipping all holds Set: Lachlan S | V2 | 2m | |||||
12 |
★★ Butt Crack
Up the crack FA: mikl, 2013 | V2 | 8m | |||||
13 |
★ Right Cheek
Start up on hanging plate 1m R of Butt Crack. Finish up thin pinchy rib thing FA: mikl, 2013 | V3 | 8m | |||||
14 |
★★ Builder's Moneybox
Start on left side of right arete. one hard move then up easy slab and arete. FA: mikl, 2013 | V4 | 8m | |||||
15 |
★ Slice of Pi
Step on from Right side of right arete and up easy slab and arete. FA: Gareth Downey, 2013 | V3 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 |
★★★ Chocolate Barbarian
Start under left arete, back wall is on for first move only. Slap up and hand-traverse up 45 degree arete. FA: mikl, 2013 | V4 | 8m | |||||
17 |
★ Slice
Standing start, pull up and onto right side of arete. Sit start as for Choc Barbarian adds a grade FA: mikl, 2013 | V1 | 8m | |||||
18 |
★★ Wedding Cake Island
The top slab is a bit harder. Start 2m right of centre on 2 handed rail and pull onto slab, then drift left then up. FA: mikl, 2013 | V3 | 9m | |||||
19 |
Self-saucing Yorkshire Puddin
Start far right in corner on big slopes (right boulder is off) and up to easy finish. FA: Gareth Downey, 2013 | V3 | 9m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Wheel of Cheese
Start on big slopes just left of corner (as for SSYP) and then traverse the lip (back wall is on for feet till you get to the pockets/toehooks at the start of Choc Barbarian) and finish up Chocolate Barbarian. A classic pumper. FA: mikl, 2014 | V5 | 14m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
21 |
Muffin top
Tenuous laybacking, start on left egde and layback directly up the left edge, the 2 holds in the centre of the slab are off FA: mikl, 2014 | V4 | 5m | |||||
22 |
Hummingbird Cake
Short and funky and slabby. Start on the left edge and head up to 2 good holds in the centre of the slab. FA: mikl, 2013 | V3 | 5m | |||||
23 |
★ Jazz Hands
Start left side of R arete, pull on then easier. FA: Jeff Crass, 2013 | V2 | 5m | |||||
24 |
Victorian Scrungecake
Right side of arete with awkward start FA: Gareth Downey, 2013 | V2 | 5m | |||||
25 |
Gutscraper Ridge
Up left side of tombstone boulder | V0 | 5m | |||||
26 |
Tombstone Arete
Instead of going under the cave to the bouldering, continue down the Cathedral track for 20m to a slabby boulder just left of the track. Up the centre of the tombstone | V1 | 5m | |||||
27 |
Jugs
right side of slab, starting on jugs | V0 | 4m |
1.2. Main Crag 88 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
스포츠 클라이밍, 고전등반 그리고 암벽등반
Lat / Long: -34.023839, 151.030694
설명
This Cathedral, named after the “holy” feature in the centre of the main crag, is a rare find for Sydney suburban climbing. Firstly, it's 25 meters high and the rock is not your average Sydney sandstone which makes for some variety. Secondly, the weird location, the tall trees and the huge mosquitoes give this place a Jurassic Park adventurer like feeling.
People, including Joe Friend, were known to have climbed here way back in the 1970's but in the most part it went underneath the radar. In 1990 two puny teenagers, Kent Heffernan and Graham Fairburn unearthed the place establishing many of the classics. They soon attracted the sharks, Dave Barnes and Mike Law and his band of merry men (and women). Bruce Stevens and his local crew also were working on some hard projects here. There are some wicked cracks to jump on and some technical face and slab routes sprinkled throughout. My favorites are Ozone Action (17) and Hercules (22). There is also a slabby bouldering area on the walk in, described in the SRC guide (below).
There is now a good access route from Menai at the top. P.S. Sorry fella’s, I lost the padlock key to the bracket on Jaded Cravings (23) Doh. However, the padlock does add character to the climb. Have fun. Barnsey
Routes are described left to right as you face the crag.
접근
Park at the end of Shackel Rd, Bangor. Please don't fill up the street and block access for locals. If there are a few cars about then park 50m further up the hill. The track starts on the left side by a fence and gate. Walk in 30m, then left and right 15m later. Head across the shallow gully, then down through a little rock band. Veer right at the cliff top overlooking the river and down gully then left to cliff. The first route is the little corner of Sorcerer's Apprentice.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Ampitheatre | ||||||||
2 |
★ Sorcerer's Apprentice
The first route on the crag. Funky start up corner to ledge then hard arete. Optional finshing pitch above is a nice 12 onto the summit. FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011 | 19 | 10m, 2 | |||||
3 |
★ Andromedary
Start in centre of slab 5m R of Sorcerer's Apprentice. Clip 1st bolt (use tree) then left and up easily to loweroff on boulder above (or continue up P2 of S.A.) FA: mikl law, 2013 | 16 | 15m, 4 | |||||
4 |
Caesarean Section
3 RB's and Lower Off added 2011. FA: Richard Sonnerdale | 24 | 10m, 3 | |||||
5 |
★★ Prevenge
Start in V corner just Right of CS. Bridge up and jump/leap/fly onto hold below first bolt, tall lads can do it direct. Hard moves on big holds to ledge then layback arete up and right to anchor. FA: mikl, 2013 | 24 | 13m, 5 | |||||
6 |
★ Dobster's Diabolical Dihedral
An interesting Vee-crack followed by a flared bottomless offwidth. Take a #4 and #5 cam for the top. Double U bolts to lower off or belay on top of the pinnacle. FA: Stu Dobbie & Gavin Critchley, 2011 | 18 | 15m | |||||
7 |
★★ Cupholder arete project
Blunt arete with strange carved tank strand and date 1/1/1941 at the base. 2 rings, open project Set: Michael Law, 2011 | |||||||
8 |
★★ Layback Crack
Up corner (has been laybacked, but good jambs) then right on outside of cave and up tricky arete. FA: mikl law, 2011 | 20 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★ Bellygood
Flared layback seam 10m right of Layback Crack with humiliating boulder start. Maybe 21 V4. FA: mikl law, 2014 | 25 | 15m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★ Frijidij
Second corner 12m right of Layback Corner. Up corner and up slapping fridge arete. FFA: Mikl Law, 2013 | 23 | 10m, 4 | |||||
Main Wall | ||||||||
12 |
★ The Quartermass Xperiment
Start 2m L of Head Injuries. Up on jugs and left on smaller holds then back right on no holds. Can continue up Young Bumblies for the full experience. FA: Gareth Downey, 2014 | 20 | 12m, 3 | |||||
13 |
★ Head Injuries
Start: Below corner crack. 'Layback' up the corner passing new bolts. 'Access' pitch for the other climbs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 13 | 6m | |||||
14 |
★★ Young Bumblies
Climb HI or TQX and head left to flake and steep wall (Rebolted 2011). Best climbed as 2 pitches. Can lower from top to deck (and the second can too) FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 21 | 10m | |||||
15 |
★★ Surface Paradise
Start up Head Injuries and up wall above, powerful then delicate. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 22 | 20m | |||||
16 |
★★ Surface Paradise Direct
Up seam right of 'Head Injuries' and up arete to join 'Surface Paradise'. A few weird moves to a sloping ledge above the 3rd Ubolt. The fin on the left side of the ledge is on. Stay on the right side of the arete above to join SP at the break.. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 23 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ The Dynamic Duo
About 3m R of Head Injuries, head up the flake and steep wall on left of crack, bridge into crack for a move at 6th bolt. Without bridging 23! FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 21 | 18m | |||||
18 |
★★ Holy Fisticuffs Batman
Mostly easy bridging up a hand and fist crack (or add thin roof crack start). Take (age/10) each of yellow and blue camalots, 2 hex 10s are handy too. Crack corner between TDD and JC, either step off block or crank thin crack start. Easilyto roof and a move, then up to final juggy chimney. FA: Mikl Law, 2015 | 19 | 18m | |||||
19 |
★★ Jaded Cravings
경고 Rock: Loose rock RB's to lower off up right arete of wide crack (22 if you go into it for a move). Rebolted 2006 FA: Dave Barnes, 1990 | 24 | 16m | |||||
20 |
★★ Success is the Enemy
LH variant of ‘Failure is your Friend’ Interesting boulder finisish. Set: Jason Lammers, 2000 FA: nathanual hebbard, 28 8월 2021 | 26 | 22m | |||||
21 |
★★★ Failure is your Friend
Up JC to 2nd bolt, vere right, tricky moves to gain break. Launch out to the headwall above and take the right line of RBs to top. FA: Jason Lammers, 2011 | 22 | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
22 |
★★★ Tiger Style
Start up 6m left of Hercules to cave and step right onto face and rising traverse into Anticoagulant, finish at these anchors for 27. Finish up Bordella de Merde for the real deal. Long draws help with rope drag. FA: nathanual hebbard, 29 8월 2021 | 29 | 28m, 13 | |||||
23 |
★★★ Anticoagulant Direct Finish
FA: mikl, 1990 | 25 | 8m | |||||
24 |
★ Anticoagulant
Desperate! Retro bolted 2011 FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 24 | 15m | |||||
25 |
★ Bordella de Merde
A DF to expectorant or start up anticoagulant, the pinch out right is on (rebolted 2008) FA: Richard Sonnerdale, 2011 | 27 | 8m, 3 | |||||
26 |
★★ Expectorant
Start up corner as for 'Anticoagulant' and 'Hercules' then up through caves to tenuous finish on line of bolts a meter left of 'Hercules'. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 24 | 15m, 4 | |||||
27 |
★★ Hercules
Start: 10m left of 'The Cathedral' Cave, up easy corner and step right into thin line. Continue straight up past some fantasic climbing to lower off. Rebolted 2006, 4 RB and Double RB Lower Off. FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 22 | 15m | |||||
28 |
★★★ Hercules Extension
Was always hard for 23 for a move, then easy slabbing to the top. Pre-clipping the anchor with a sling loses 2 grades, and all your self-respect. From the double RB's on 'Hercules', blast up, 2 RB's to double RB lower off (rebolted 2008) FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 23 | 22m | |||||
29 |
★★ Imogen
Sustained and way cool. The rounded arete just left of the Cathedral Cave. Do not stem up the wide corner ('Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start', grade 21); climb just left of the first two bolts (grade 23). If you stickclip, then better to clip the second bolt directly as the first one offers little protection. FA: Jason Lammers, 2008 | 23 | 15m, 7 | |||||
30 |
★★ Imogenation
Thin cranking, DF to Imogen. (Do not stem right at any point) FA: mikl, 2013 | 25 | 22m, 11 | |||||
31 |
★★ Imogen Easy (but Scary) Start / Imogen (21 version)
Stem up the wide crack to reach the third bolt of 'Imogen'. Stick-clip second bolt to keep you from hitting the ground if you fall, but it still may be an awkward swing. The original bolts for this route were to the right and better protected this version. It was only when these bolts were chopped and moved left did it become dangerous (and less popular) | 21 | 15m, 7 | |||||
32 |
★★ Fat Crack
Streno thrash, great fun. Essential before a trip to Frog Buttress or Yosemite.The crux section had previously been done as part of The Shute. Medium wires, finger to hand cams and a fist cam above the thread and one for the top chimney. FA: mikl law, 2013 | 21 | 22m | |||||
33 |
★ Axe Grinder
A route on its own and the final meters of 'The Shute'. Probally a bit of a pain to get to. Rap in from trees on top of cliff and climb out. " I would not trust the old rusty carrots for the hanging belay, but there are some new RBs you could setup a hanging belay with some slings of different sizes. " 3 RB to Double RB lower off. Nice and airy up there. FA: Dave Barnes, 1989 | 15 | 8m | |||||
34 |
★ Bundy's been bolting
Start just left of the Cathedral cave. Only 20, if you dont do the last move. Direct extension is closed project. FA: Lord Bundy, 2007 | 20 | 15m, 6 | |||||
35 |
★★ The Shute
Up BBB, then stem up the crack and right into AG. A committing adventure FA: Cameron Taylor, 2000 | 23 | 25m | |||||
36 |
BBB - Direct Finish - CLOSED PROJECT - and still closed !
The obvious extension to BBB that now has an extra bolt and strangely enough it now seems do-able. CLOSED PROJECT FA: 2000 Set: Jason Lammers, 2013 | 25m | ||||||
37 |
★★ Bora
Pumpy pumpy pumpy. Up right side of cave and traverse lip then up groove and wall to top. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 24 | 25m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
38 |
★★★ Wacky Tabacci
경고 Rock: Potential rockfall If you like this sort of thing, this is the sort of thing you'll like. A classic with exposed climbing on good holds with 'sporting' bolting, but there are a few chimney moves so long pants recommended. The apparent grade depends a lot on when you started climbing: if you started in the 60s it's be 10; 70s = 13, 80s = 14. This century somewhere between 16 and 20. The obvious left leaning chimney to the right of The Cathedral cave. Up then use jugs on right arete. Above chockstone/roof thing, step around left arete and up to lower off. Technically easy but pretty out there, better to be overgraded than a sandbag I suppose.... FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 17 | 25m, 8 | |||||
39 |
★★ Retro Crack
The bolted crack line 5m R of Wacky Tabacki. Mostly laybacking and climbing the left arete but a jamb or two may be needed. Has been lead on large natural gear if you don't like Ubolts FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 20 | 25m, 8 | |||||
40 |
★★ Stainless Mystery
Start up GOOT or 'Vitez' (trad) and traverse left in break at 10m then finish up Retro Crack (rings). FA: Hill's Alien visitation crew from TJF, 2000 | 18 | 30m | |||||
41 |
★★ Get Out of Town
Start on face 1m right of Retro Crack. Hard off the ground to RB and trad up to pea pod. Up a bit then take the left-hand flake past 2 rings to a lower-off. FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 20 | 25m, 3 | |||||
42 |
★★ Vitez
Pleasant crack to pea-pod and continue straight up the wide crack above past 3 stainless carrots. | 19 | 25m | |||||
43 |
★★ Medieval Remedies
Another wall finish to the 2 cracks, one very funky move... Start up Vitez or GOOT to pod, right a move to Inchworm Groove anchor then climb the wall a metre R of wide crack (Vitez DF) past 3 RBs to single U lower off. FA: Ben Williams, 2015 | 21 | 25m, 4 | |||||
44 |
★ Vitez Right Finish
Start in the corner crack 1 m Right of Get out of Town. Follow this up and over a bulge to the pea pod. Move right and clip the chain on IG then right again (past Medieval Remedies) to face climb past RBs to top off cliff and double RB lower off. According to the 1991 Rock Magzine guidebook to Sydney - this was actually the original finish to Get Out of Town! FA: P. Farkas, 1989 | 18 | 25m | |||||
45 |
★★ Black Knight of 'Ni'
Start as for Vitez. Follow this up to pea pod, at the left hand flake bust out right above Inchworm Groove anchors and take the two ringbolts above (extend last piece and the runners along traverse). Finish up the headwall dihedral on small gear to take the anchors above and right at the top of the cliff (Top of Nats Mega Proj). Fun mix of crack, slab and face climbing. FA: David Pasqualino, 5월 2021 | 18 | 25m, 2 | |||||
46 |
★★ Inchworm Groove
경고 Access: what's going on This one is for the hard nuts,it was once the hardest trad line in shire, and possibly NSW. Start: Below the thin seam, tenuous moves up the groove to lower off chain at half height or easily to top up anything nearby. Take small gear. FA: Mike Law, 1986 | 27 | 8m | |||||
47 |
mega proj
closed project up thin layback seam/crack to slab FA: Set: nathanual hebbard | 25m, 9 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
48 |
★★ Creature Of The Knight
Start as for CF and break left once you establish yourself on the top slab. Finish at anchor to the right of the corner crack above obvious feature (.4 can dilute the finish). FA: nathanual hebbard, 2 8월 2021 | 23 | 27m, 8 | |||||
49 |
★★ Creature Feature
As for OA until for the 1st section. Then clip RB on left and move to the left up the thin slab past 3 new RB to lower offs. Rebolted 2006 FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 23 | 20m, 7 | |||||
50 |
★★ Gutterfingers
Excellent climbing finishing in strange laybacking up a runnel. Once again, almost a sport climb if you carry a sling for the big jug above the second bolt on OA. As for OA for 10m (past 2 RBs and a sling runner). Then move left (bolt) and straight up the thin slab above, move left to lower off. FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2011 | 21 | 20m, 7 | |||||
51 |
★★ Ozone Action
Sydney classic at the grade! A great example of a mixed route, requiring quite a bit of trad. Start on right side of main wall at the right leading groove/flake feature with very high first bolt (stick-clip it). Up the groove (2 RBs), sling the top of the feature and take a well earned rest. Finish up a exposed flake crack on left side of arete (cams and wires) then one final RB to lower-offs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 17 | 20m, 3 | |||||
52 |
★ Jack and the Beanstalk
경고 Flora and Fauna: Grey Fantail nesting climb wobbly tree and then finish up one of the routes above Tarmac Traverse. | 14 | 8m | |||||
53 | Guerrilla Warfare | 14 | 8m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
54 |
★ Ghostrider
The short hard little problem under NN. Hard start to pocket then crimp your way to the chain under NN. FA: Jason Lammers, 2006 | 22 | 8m | |||||
Tarmac Traverse | ||||||||
56 |
★ Aero Arete
Start: Just right of arete, use pro as for OA. FA: Steve Turcsanyi, 1989 | 13 | 8m | |||||
57 |
★ Suicidal Tendencies
One more accross, 3 BRs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 16 | 8m | |||||
58 |
★ Cathedral Quack
The next one along to the left. Another fun climb ! FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 16 | 8m | |||||
59 |
★ Neuron Nerd
Start just right of the chains, and up past three RBs. FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 16 | 8m, 3 | |||||
60 |
★ Cosmic Cruncher
FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 16 | 8m | |||||
61 |
Tarmac Traverse
The access pitch for the next 5 climbs. Start from bunch of small trees. The obvious low angle slab leading left across the middle of the wall to a rap chain. | 6 | 10m | |||||
62 |
★ Shoot That Dog
The tricky looking Chimney FA: Kent Heffernan, 1989 | 14 | 10m | |||||
63 |
★ Mushroom Mantle
Start below flake just right of chimney groove. Can be done without tree (at about the same grade ) Or step off tree and up the flake and dynoSlab (TM) with a bizarre mantle near the top. 4 Ubolts and lower-off. (Rebolted 2011) FA: Graham Fairbairn, 1989 | 21 | 12m | |||||
64 |
★ Cranking Like a Demon
Start left of descent chimney. Up slab and bulge (4 Ubolts) to lower off. (Rebolted 2011) FA: Mike Law | 24 | 12m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
The Slabs | ||||||||
66 |
★★ Isis
Start: 25m right of the main wall and Tarmac traverse routes, the first line on the smooth black wall. Up seam to lower off. Powerful moves. FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 24 | 12m, 4 | |||||
67 |
★★ Glacis
Start: 3m right of Isis. Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks. FA: Mike Law, 1987 | 29 | 18m, 4 | |||||
68 |
★★★ Pool Shark
Start up the V crack system (thin gear to start)to an enjoyable top with some very interesting holds and good gear. FA: nathanual hebbard & Dave Pastafarian, 24 7월 2021 | 24 | 12m | |||||
69 |
★★ Moss Ghyll Grooves
20m right of G, starting below cracks at left edge of steep wall. Up the cracks heading slightly left at the top to anchor. Looks easy... FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 24 | 10m, 6 | |||||
70 |
★ Take me to the Tropics
start as for Moss Ghyll. Can get dirty. Up MGG then traverse right and up. Good crux move FA: Cam Taylor, 2008 | 25 | 11m, 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
71 |
★★★ In the Groove
Right of MGG. Super funky pocket pulling. Up the slab laybacking furiously, especially the final wide crack. FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 25 | 15m, 6 | |||||
72 |
★ Legless
10m right of ITG. Stick clip high Ubolt and pull boulder problem, right to corner then up and out right for a move to bizarre Greek dancing boy move at top. FA: Mike Law, 1991 | 23 | 20m, 5 | |||||
73 |
★ Spite
Just past the little creek that flows down the face is the Trauma Wall. Spite - Just right of the creek. A desperate granite slab test piece ( I know that the topo says it's 23). Clean before climbing, stickclip first Ubolt. Stick clip high Ubolt and go FA: Mike Law, 1990 | 25 | 15m, 4 | |||||
74 |
★★ Mr Squiggle
8m right of the creek and 5m right of Spite. Up the fun and increasingly delicate groove and crack. Left a wee bit at the top before moving right to anchors. FFA: Mike Law, 1990 | 20 | 15m, 5 | |||||
75 |
★★ Ms Pat
4m right of MS. Up the delicate slab to anchors on block. In the 80s it had 3 less grades and 2 less bolts! FA: Mike Law, 1989 | 21 | 15m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
76 |
★ Monopoly
Start: 5m right of Ms Pat. Climb up onto the hollow sounding flake past a bolt then the slab above using friction smearing: "nose over toes, rubber on the rock, stand up straight". If you're leaning over clutching at crystals or desperately hauling with your hands you're making it harder than it is. FA: Michael Combley & Anrew Rigden, 2013 | 18 | 10m, 3 | |||||
77 |
Trivial Pursuit
Start 2 metres right of Monopoly: Climb into the scoop and comfortably clip the RB. Friction up the slab to reach sloping holds, continue smearing upwards and mantle shelf onto the holds. Stand up and clip the next RB. Move left to lower off Monopoly Both Monopoly & Trivial Pursuit are both excellent practise pieces for the harder slab climbs to the left. 10 metres to the right of these climbs is a pathway that descends to Angels Buttress and also another pathway upwards that joins the Cathedral descent path. To reach the Cathedral descent path climb upwards 10 metres right of Trivial Pursuit and follow the yellow and white insulation tape bands to reach the main access path FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden, 2013 | 17 | 10m, 3 | |||||
Angel's ButtressA wild collection of Sydney's finest offwdiths. Something here for all sizes. Bolts abound and make it accessible to all, but if you are lucky enough to have a size 7 cam (aka Merlin), many a delightful greenpoint experiences await you at... MERLIN'S BUTTRESS. | ||||||||
79 |
★ Boot Flake
Fun layback. Named after the hole at the base where I lost a brand new Miura. Start 20m R of Trivial Pursuit and 1m left of 'Oh the Humidity" at wide crack. FA: mikl, 2013 | 18 | 6m, 2 | |||||
80 |
★ Oh the Humidity
Nice thin crack. Start about 12m uphill from Wire Brush and Dettol. Up crack to 2 ring lower-off. FA: Stu Dobster, 2012 | 16 | 6m | |||||
81 |
★★ Wire Brush and Dettol
About 40m right of MP is a giant flake leaning against the cliff, forming an overhung wide layback corner. Undercling the wide crack then walk left 4m and up the wall to anchor. Careful belaying is needed to keep you off the ledeg on the bouldery crux (I'd pull up on the bolt above the ledge to clip the higher one, or even bring the second up to the big ledge to belay. Use a screwgate on the bolt. It was originally graded 18 and had two 70's toproping bolts in it, judging by the number of loose flakes removed on the top wall, I don't think it had been climbed.. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 20 | 18m, 5 | |||||
82 |
Murphy's Law
Short arete right of WB&D. Energetic starting moves with a delicate finish. FA: Jackson O'Grady, 8 10월 2021 | 26 | 8m, 2 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
83 |
★★ Tourniquet
Learn to offwidth and remove ugly excess skin! 8m further right around the arete is an offwidth. Stick clip BR at 4m and up past another bolt to hand crack and gear to lower-off. FA: Stu Dobbie, 2011 | 20 | 18m, 2 | |||||
84 |
★★ Buffalo Bum
The hand and fist crack 1m right of Tourniquet. Step in from right. Good stuff, eats cams. Lower-off on left as for Tourniquet FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 18 | 18m | |||||
85 |
Bye Forever
Just like goodbyes, not all that pleasant. Shallow flaring double crack system into a chimney top. FA used a #7 as first piece, a #6 would go one move higher. Tree anchor. FA: Jake Delaney & Tom Bes, 10 7월 2023 | 17 | 19m | |||||
86 |
★★ Nutter in a Gutter
Funky groove and neat face climbing. Up crack 8 m R of Buffalo Bum to ledge, step R 1.5m and up wall to jugs then left to crack FA: Gareth Downey, 2013 | 21 | 15m | |||||
87 |
★★ Wench in a Trench
Wide crack 8m right of Buffalo Bum Past 2 RBs, then nice through bulge at top to loweroffs. Nuts and cams for top section; you can also get some gear in the break before the 2nd bolt. FA: Stu Dobbie & Enmoore Lin, 2011 | 20 | 18m, 2 | |||||
88 |
★★ Boffin in a Coffin
Epic offwidth through roof 8m right of Wench. Offffffwidth into sport climbing crux on wall. FA: Mike Law, 2011 | 24 | 12m, 4 | |||||
89 |
★ Tweedlebum
Start 10m R of Boffin in a Coffin. Up to roof and up. Wide. FA: mikl, 2011 | 22 | 10m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
90 |
★ Chimney sweep punters
Up the thin crack feature on small gear, avoid bridging across to face on left. Once ledge is gained move left into squeeze chimney with more small gear in the back. Move up and right back into crack on face and top out. Walk off or abseil off tree. FA: Tom Bes, 8 7월 2021 | 16 | 10m | |||||
91 |
Country Club Punters
The last crack on the wall, a few metres further from Tweedlebum, thin cracks up bulge to ledge and then mantle (crux). Keep the ledgefall potential in mind. (If you have to remove the plant from the top crack you're not strong enough.) FFA: Anton Korsun Set: Tom Bes | 21 | 10m | |||||
Gumboot Ridge Boulder | ||||||||
93 |
★ Gumboot Ridge
Easiest sport route in town? A good beginner's route. Walk down and R 10m from Wire Brush and Dettol, then down the Right side of a boulder. Walk climb the ridge. FA: mikl, 2013 | 6 | 12m, 3 | |||||
94 |
★ Plimsole Line
Another easy beginner's slab climb up the slab right of Gumboot Ridge: Start at the lowest point of the slab and follow the line of RB's trending left to the single RB belay at the top. FA: Michael Combley & Andrew Rigden (Solo), 2013 | 12 | 15m, 3 |