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Table of contents
- 1.
The Wastelands
76 in Crag
- 1.1. The Vertex 8 in Cliff
- 1.2. The Grandstand 7 in Cliff
- 1.3. Stray Cat's Crag 4 in Cliff
- 1.4. Aunty Dot's 12 in Cliff
- 1.5. Rainbow Wall Right Side 8 in Cliff
- 1.6. Rainbow Wall Main Area 18 in Cliff
- 1.7. The pre-bumbly area 5 in Cliff
- 1.8. Bumbly Buttress Right Side 4 in Cliff
- 1.9. Bumbly Buttress Left Side 5 in Cliff
- 1.10. Cave Rock 4 in Cliff
- 2. Index by grade
1. The Wastelands 76 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
고전등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: -34.060674, 150.999802
Turn off Princes Hwy at Anzac Ave, Engadine.
Continue along Anzac Ave and turn right into Woronora Road
Turn left at Buckle Ave
Continue along into Mountain St
Turn left into Ardua Place and park near the end.
There is a lane way between the houses, walk down this and then head left and decend down the hill
Scamble down the cliff in the corner near big tree and "Year 7 Girl".
요약
This crag has some great suburban climbing and Rainbow Wall remains a great place to test your skills. I really like routes on the Vertex but they may need some cleaning these days. My favourite climb here remains Plummit Earth Eats Worms.
설명
The Sydney climbing website has a good map of the sub areas, http://sydneyclimbing.com/The+Wastelands.html
접근 문제들
For over 50 years climbers in the Sutherland Shire have enjoyed free access to many fantastic crags and caves. But as of 2014 there have been access problems emerging at several climbing and bouldering areas due to aboriginal art sites and shell middens in caves. Sutherland Shire Council and the Dept of Enviroment and Heritage have announced closures and sign-posted some of these aboriginal sites, with further closures and signs to be added during summer/autumn 2016/2017. Areas of particular problem are ground level overhangs with flat bases, the type of terrain popular at hard bouldering areas. Whilst the details are sorted out keep a low profile, clean up ALL rubbish (inc removing mattresses in bouldering caves) and avoid climbing at closed areas. In particular treat non-climbers you see at crags with the utmost respect as they could be rangers, archeologists, traditional owners or anyone else with a dim view of climbers and the ability to shut us out. Climbing in Royal National Park has been officially banned for many years - probably due mostly to the Wattamolla 'don't jump off rocks' cliff-diving-into-water ban. For more information about aboriginal sites and rockclimbing please read this link from Sutherland Council: https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B0KxtU2nUQB9cjhHUWE4cE5HWnM/view?usp=sharing
접근
To get there:
Subsections and climbs are described right to left facing the cliff.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | B | ?(S) | 10m | |||||
  |
||||||||
1.1. The Vertex 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
고전등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: -34.062874, 151.001075
설명
The Southmost section of The Wastelands. A 15m bulging slab, that is likely overgrown. Climbs are described right to left
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Kon Bon Wa
Two meters right of AFA FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 8m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
Asking for Action
The Arete right of KKB. Poorly placed bolt leads to sustained climbing FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 16 | 8m, 2 | |||||
| 3 |
King Kong's Bum
Up the dirty crack FA: M. Fox, 1991 | 14 | 10m | |||||
| 4 |
★ Breathless
Left of KKB, straight up using nuts to supplement the bolts FA: David Barnes, 1993 | 20 | 15m, 3 | |||||
| 5 |
Cringing Dinosaurs
Start below the ramp leading right. Mixed pro FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 21 | 15m, 1 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Stormy Rocks
A good climb that needs some traffic. After some thin moves at the start you get to do some great moves in the middle with the bolts just where you need them. DBB FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 20 | 15m, 4 | |||||
| 7 |
Slabathon
Technical crux FA: Dave Barnes | 24 | 15m, 3 | |||||
| 8 |
★ Jeopardy
The left arete. Steep line with mixed pro FA: David Barnes, 1993 | 24 | 14m, 2 | |||||
1.2. The Grandstand 7 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
고전등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: -34.062828, 151.000921
설명
South facing bulging buttress. There are rap anchors on top, or you can scramble around
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Pandora's Pillar
Start right of the right hand arete in the gully. Likely overgrown FA: C. Jeffs, 1992 | 12 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 2 |
I'd Rather Be Climbin'
The right arete. Mixed line to chain belay FA: C.Jeffs, 1992 | 17 | 8m, 1 | |||||
| 3 |
No Wasted Space
FA: Alan Smith, 1993 | 17 | 15m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
Alley Boys
Up corner to chain belay. New ring bolt lower off. 2021 FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 15m, 1 | |||||
| 5 |
Ocean of Wind
Climb up between the two plates of rock. Start right of the first bolt. New u bolt lower offs 2021. FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 16 | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 6 |
Dodging the Elements
Left arete starting above the rusty metal. Up the arete, trying to stay away from OOW. New stainless u bolt lower offs 2021. FA: David Barnes, 1993 | 17 | 15m, 5 | |||||
| 7 |
Weirding Way
two meters left of DTE below the corner. Up the vegetated corner, then up the much better headwall FA: M. Walters, 1992 | 17 | 15m, 2 | |||||
1.3. Stray Cat's Crag 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
모두 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.062773, 151.000750
설명
The South buttress located directly below the power lines.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Love Letters From Tasmania
Up the crack. New lower offs 2021. FA: M.Fox, 1992 | 15 | 8m | |||||
| 2 |
Swimming in a Sea of Sand
Heady trad slabbing for a 15. New lower offs 2021. FA: M.Fox, 1992 | 15 | 8m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Plummet Earth Eats Worms
Fun mixed slab. Two new stainless carrots and ring bolt lower offs 2021. A really fun slab adventure but be careful if this is at your grade/head game limit as placements aren’t mega. FA: Dave Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 9m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Avian Avarice
Up the right side of the left arete. New stainless carrot and lower offs 2021. FA: M. Fox, 1991 | 19 | 8m, 1 | |||||
1.4. Aunty Dot's 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.060753, 150.999537
설명
about 100m past Stray Cat's, or a bit above Rainbow RHS.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
A
Short wall facing the descent gully | 20 | 5m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
To Catch a Thief
At far right end of the wall FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 19 | 6m, 1 | |||||
| 3 |
★ Eat More Onions
Left of TCAT past two bolts FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
El Crapo
Just left of the steep gully FA: C. Jeffs, 1992 | 17 | 6m, 1 | |||||
| 5 |
Sabrina
Up the crack to finish up jugs FA: M. Fonda, 1991 | 16 | 7m | |||||
| 6 |
Vengeance
Up the orange streak in the middle of the wall FA: M. Fonda, 1991 | 18 | 7m, 2 | |||||
| 7 |
Highway Neanderthal
left of V FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 15 | 7m, 2 | |||||
| 8 |
Faith
Follow the rightward ramp to V with no pro FA: A. Le Gras (solo), 1991 | 13 | 9m | |||||
| 9 |
Psychedelic Nightmare
left of F, Straight up past bolt and cam FA: G. McGregor, 1992 | 14 | 7m, 1 | |||||
| 10 |
Ordinary People
straight up past single bolt FA: M. Fonda, 1992 | 18 | 7m, 1 | |||||
| 11 |
Temporary Insanity
two meters right of corner. Straight up FA: C. Jeffs, 1992 | 14 | 7m, 1 | |||||
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
| 12 |
NFI Crack
The wide crack two meters left of the arete FA: Peter Monks, 1998 | 6 | 6m | |||||
1.5. Rainbow Wall Right Side 8 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.060107, 150.999562
설명
The overgrown wall that is a continuation of Rainbow wall on the other side of the creek.
  |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Slave to the Crank
Far right end, 3 bolts to tree belay | 25 | 7m, 3 | |||||
| 2 |
★ Cranky Jaws
left of STTC below flake FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 19 | 7m, 2 | |||||
| 3 |
Galactic Crack
The obvious crack FA: R. Roxby, 1991 | 12 | 6m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
Dildo Comes Again
Up the corner to a tree belay FA: M. Fonda, 1991 | 12 | 5m | |||||
| 5 |
I'm On Fire
Left of DCA, past two bolts then finish left FA: M.Darda, 1992 | 16 | 7m | |||||
|
Some scrub separates these lines | ||||||||
| 7 |
Pyro Monkey
left of the scrub FA: S. Johnson, 1991 | 15 | 7m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Dancing With Dolphins
Left of Pyro. 3RB’s to Lower Off. Rad !! Rebolted 2021 FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 18 | 9m, 3 | |||||
| 9 |
Wicked Ticket
Up past flakes and bolts FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 9m, 3 | |||||
1.6. Rainbow Wall Main Area 18 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.059809, 150.999590
설명
The premium cliff at The Wastelands, short and mostly vertical but with a variety of well developed routes.
접근
Approach through the North end via the Bumbly Buttress / fire trail.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Pot of Gold
At far right end of Rainbow Wall, at ramp. A bit runout. Up thin wall to break, then left up ramp and traverse horizontal break left (piton on Sweet Red Wine) to anchors on Fatboy. FA: Peter Monks, 1997 | 15 | 9m | |||||
| 2 |
★ Conan and the Gonad Cruncher
Start below blunt arête at right hand end. Up the right side of the arête past 4 bolts. Shared lower off with SRW. Rebolted 2021 FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 16 | 9m, 4 | |||||
| 3 |
Sweet Red Wine
Two meters left of Conan. Rebolted 2021 | 22 | 8m, 1 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Fatboy Thin
Same as 'Fatboy', but without using the chipped hold for hands or feet. FA: Same as Fatboy but aviods the Chipped hold. | 23 | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Fatboy
Up crack then blast straight up past RBs to lower off. It has a chipped hold than can be avioided. Tricky between 1st and 2nd bolts. Rebolted 2021 FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 10m, 4 | |||||
| 6 |
★ Get It On
4m to the right of DT, climb up face, without using any of the holds on DT. At 2nd RB move to the right and up to shared lower off with 'Fatboy'. Rebolted 2021 FA: M. Fonda, 1993 | 17 | 8m, 3 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ French Toast
Quality moderate Grit. Start up thin breaks between Get It On and Dave's Toaster and up feature to break. Climb the face with interesting moves and good gear to mantle and tree anchor. FA: nathanual hebbard, 17 10월 2021 | 19 | 9m | |||||
| 8 |
★ Dave's Toaster
The obvious corner system, with bomber gear - was originally marked DT. The first completed climb at Rainbow. FFA: FA: Hardy Bros, 1980 | 17 | 8m | |||||
| 9 |
★ Contrived Pate
Start below flakes left of DT. 2 bolts to anchor. Rebolted 2021 FA: Chris Wallace, 1993 | 20 | 8m, 2 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Bolting Blues
A young Graham Fairburn put this up in June, 1990. There was a TCU in the first and last break which made it more exciting than now but still, a great technical bit of face climbing. Rebolted 2021 FA: Graham Fairburn, 1990 | 24 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Room With a View
Just to the right of COtC. A ripper of all wall climb with a stingy tail. 3 Us to DBB lower off shared with BB or finish direct. Rebolted 2021 FA: David Barnes | 22 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 12 |
★★ Billy McDougall
As for for BE, but pike out of last direct move and move right and clip the last bolt on COtC and up to anchors. | 22 | 9m, 5 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Check Out the Chicken
Start: 2m right of BE. Straight up wall under flake. 4 bolts to shared anchors with BE. Rebolted 2021 FA: David Barnes, 1990 | 22 | 8m, 5 | |||||
| 14 |
★★ Billy's England
Just to the right of H&HR, Balancey start leads to reachy moves upto break. Then up to big reach move, to lower off shared with COtC. Classic climbing with new bolts. Rebolted 2021 FA: Dave Barnes | 23 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 15 |
★ Hip and Hunky Rhythm
Start: 2m left of BE. Blast straight up wall past 3 U bolts to lower off. Rebolted 2021 FA: Ben Pearce, 1994 | 24 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 16 |
★★ Psychedelic Rhythm
(Link Up) Start up Sick Cows On Acid and do the crux, clip the 2nd bolt and move up to the higher break. Hand Traverse right (gear) and finish up Hip and Hunky Rhythm taking the final bolt and anchors. FA: nathanual hebbard, 8 10월 2021 | 25 | 9m, 3 | |||||
| 17 |
★★ Sick Cows on Acid
Start: Behind block. Superb rock. 4 U bolts and positive ape factor. Rebolted 2021 FA: Ben Pearce, 1994 | 25 | 8m, 4 | |||||
| 18 |
Courting Notoriety
Start: Behind the block 2m left of SCoA. Up the offwidth and flake above. The block is off limits. Place gear in top from block before you start to protect fall onto block. Ugly. FA: Adrian Ridgley, 1993 | 18 | 8m | |||||
1.7. The pre-bumbly area 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
스포츠 클라이밍 그리고 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.059576, 150.999473
접근
Approach by following the cliff either right (when facing the climbs) from Bumbly Buttress or left from Rainbow Wall main area. Love Mission is obvious near the solid looking gum, and the FHs on Hot Chips and Sauce are easy to spot further to the left.
  |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Love Mission
Start: Just right of big gum tree. 2 BRs and mid size cam. Great Climbing. FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 20 | 7m | |||||
| 2 |
Bundy Project
Start just left of tree at cool little flake. Up thru breaks veering left to finish on shared lower offs with PL. | 8m | ||||||
| 3 |
★★ Poetic Licence
This route is more of a boulder problem with a couple of BR;s. However it is on very nice rock and has one of the greatest dino's to reach the top break, around. If ypou are down this way have a go, I would love to know what you think? It deserves some traffic. FA: | 23 | 7m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
Year Seven Girl
Up flakes with no pro (top rope recommended). Used to have a marked start FA: Gary Hardy & Mark Hardy, 1980 | 20 | 6m | |||||
| 5 |
Hot Chips - Rebolted Project - Stay off
The 'Steep' climb between Bumbly Buttress 'Right Side' and 'Rainbow Wall' 'Main Area'. Up corner wall past FH to Bolt, then over buldge and up steep head wall past chips to chain. | 10m | ||||||
1.8. Bumbly Buttress Right Side 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
고전등반 그리고 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: -34.059476, 150.999399
설명
A little overgrown but obvious. The face split by an off-width to 3/4 height.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Mulch Mattress
Start three meters right of FOTF. Up to break, then traverse left under overhangs to finish up Flight FA: M. Walters, 1992 | 17 | 10m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
Flight of the Fanciful
Start two meters right of the crack. Stay left of the poor rock FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 21 | 10m, 3 | |||||
| 3 |
Yosemite Sam
The wide offwidth leading to a face with a bolt or two FA: M. Walters, 1992 | 17 | 10m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
★ Finger Lickin' Good
Left of YS. Up the sharp wall past three bolts FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 20 | 10m, 3 | |||||
1.9. Bumbly Buttress Left Side 5 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
모두 고전등반
Lat / Long: -34.059366, 150.999305
설명
Round to the right (facing in), and a bit below cave rock.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Snowbound
Straight up to the cave, traverse left and continue to top. Requires cams FA: M. Fonda, 1990 | 15 | 9m | |||||
| 2 |
Direct Door
Up to the horizontal break, traverse right a few meters, then up FA: M. Fox, 1991 | 21 | 9m | |||||
| 3 |
★ Emma Loves Artichokes
Up through seam to top. Difficult pro FA: M. Fox, 1991 | 22 | 8m | |||||
| 4 |
Mortal Sin
Start below the flakes FA: Graham Fairburn, 1991 | 20 | 8m | |||||
| 5 |
Spasticosis
Follow the ramp up FA: M. Fonda, 1990 | 7 | 7m | |||||
1.10. Cave Rock 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
모두 스포츠 클라이밍
Lat / Long: -34.058986, 150.999409
설명
The closest lines to Ardua rd.
접근
From Ardua Rd, find the alley to get past the houses, go left for about 50m, then find a way down between the rocks beside the wall
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Nancyboy
Right side of the cave with a few questionable bolts FA: M. Fonda, 1992 | 18 | 7m, 2 | |||||
| 2 |
Cream
Up and out through the top of the cave FA: David Barnes, 1992 | 19 | 8m, 3 | |||||
| 3 |
Who's the Joker
Left side of cave. (.75, 1 & 2 make for a good anchor due to demise of tree) FA: David Barnes, 1991 | 18 | 8m, 2 | |||||
| 4 |
Cowboy Caviar
Left of the cave FA: M. Le Gras, 1991 | 15 | 6m | |||||
