등정들 Lechquellengebirge에서

Epic route with sparse bolting!

Actually 11 pitches (a left traversing pitch around 5/5+ between Pitch 9 and 10 is missing here!)

Nice route while starting at the variant. Last pitch was great!

die stelle beim 2ten haken in der crux länge ist bestimmt 7+. Generell sportlich abgesichert

Top out. Man kann oben aussteigen und einfach wieder herunterlaufen

Sind bis zum Vorletzten Stand geklettert, letzte SL war nass. Alle Stände haben 1BH und man kann Abseilen. Zwischen den Ständen kaum Haken, Routenfindung war aber ok. Die 7- Stelle kann links umgangen werden. Der 6. Grad Trad sollte aber solide beherrscht werden. Viel Piazen...

I just could not pass and "had" to spice up my hike from the Spullersee, via the Gehrengrat to the Formarinsee with some climbing. Thanks to Thorsten for the last minute info. So I hurried and ran from the bus stop to the beginning of the east ridge - at least to the Ditteshütte. There I met 2 hikers enjoying the view and asked for directions. I was right so I hurried on. While passing by, I heard the accusatory questions or statements: "Alone? Without a rope?". "Yes, without rope!" I answered and was around the corner. Due to the many cow paths, I then unfortunately got a little off track, but after 35 minutes I was at the start of the first pitch, the water grooves. I bypassed these in the easier terrain on the right side and made it harder than it had to be due to a poor choice of route. To make matters worse, I hit my shin badly when my left foot slipped away. Bad omen.

The 2nd pitch (according to Panico), then presented me with the first challenge. With the hiking half shoes, the way at the bolts was too tricky for me and I considered whether I should turn back again. In any case, I had an appointment with my family at the Freiburger Hütte. But I didn't want to give up so easily (or rather, I was too lazy to descend again) and was able to get around to the left, much easier, via a small ramp. At the first belaystation I met the rope team I had waited for before, in order not to be exposed to falling rocks. Probably a mountain guide with two guests in tow. They let me overtake then and the hint the passage at the bolts would have been the most difficult section, calmed me but immensely.

So on to the next ascent (4th pitch). There I let myself be seduced by the clear trail traces on a narrow band in the north side. I had still seen the bolts of the belaystation, but didn't turn back. Thus, the wayfinding was entirely up to me, because there were no other bolts there for orientation. Back at the ridge, the mountain guide had also already caught up and said there was always more than one possible way. His word in God's ear.

After this excursion into the unknown the next hurdle came.The supposed start to the 6th pitch was somewhat poor in good holds, which I would have liked to have in the absence of a rope. But with patience and confidence, I found the right step for the right foot and the matter was nailed. It's usually the feet that count, right? After that it went like clockwork and I made such good progress that the impressions were not lasting.

It became interesting again in the 9th pitch. Here you get to climb down a steep step and then switch to a very narrow ridge edge. The descent was well doable, but the balancing act did not leave me cold and I dared not quite upright over it. On the right and on the left it dropped in any case neatly deep. Then followed the slab of the 10th pitch, which I dishonorably simply bypassed to the right. The following climbing contained again a downswing and then came the last ascent to the summit cross which I reached after about 55 minutes.

Quickly made a few snapshots of the surroundings and ate a banana and on it continued in about 3.5 hours over the Gehrengrat, to the Freiburger Hütte and finally to the bus stop at the Formarinsee. In total about 14km, +880Hm, -900Hm.