루트들 전통등반로서 Vancouver Island에서

(Roche Cove)

(Hissing Bull)

Gear or top rope from Raindance.Stem and finger jam the cracks up to the daunting roof, underclinging out left of the roof. Difficult gear.

5 bolts+ gear to 2". Climb the open corner with steep finish

Gear up to 3". Fun popular route. Crack climb into big right facing corner. Swing left around the roof and up enjoyable crack.

A short but fun crack route with positive pro, a good one for a new trad leader.

OUT OF CONDITION

The crack that goes strait up from the overhang near the big fir tree. The crux is the first few moves off the ground. Great pro, particularly for conglomerate. A belay anchor is there due to the airy belay situation.

The obvious corner crack in the middle of the main wall. Very good pro on a Nanaimo classic trad moderate. The crux is at the short vertical section just below the anchor.

An under appreciated trad gem. Protection is excellent except where the crack flares, where a bolt was added to eliminate the runout. Some find the grade a bit of a sandbag.

The obvious corner crack at the right end of the black wall. Great pro for the first three quarters of the route, then decision time at the crux - use up the finger crack for pro, or run it out and save it for a lie back hold. A single bolt protects the final move to the anchor.

A fairly serious trad lead for its grade. Gear is good through the bulge (crux), but the rock is crumbly here. Somewhat run out at the top, but a key placement can be found under the small roof.

Leftmost route on the small forested wall on the lower deck. Two bolts then a #1 cam in a conglomerate pod, or throw a sling around one of the namesake chicken heads above the pod. Anchors are just hangers, but there are ring anchors on the next ledge above.

Either start up the bolted series of small ledges on the right or directly up the gear seam of the left, then follow the seam placing more gear to the anchor. Both options go at the same grade.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

The left facing trad dihedral corner near the right end of the wall. Gear is moderate.

Rescrubbed Sept/23

The lone route on the upper half of this wall. Climb Screw the Taxman or Shoe Fly By first to get to the belay anchor. The belay can also be reached from the upper approach trail using a hand line. Or, climb everything right from river level in a single 30 meter pitch. Place a #1 cam as the first piece of pro, then all bolts on a technical slab after that.

Rescrubbed Sept/23

This hybrid route uses the first bolt of Fluid Thrill, then the second bolt of Lower Momentum, follows a poorly protected curving flake crack to the left of a bulge, then finishes with the final bolt and top anchors of Fluid Thrill.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

A hidden gem of a trad climb. Delicately come out from under the starting overhang and follow a finger width corner crack that takes gear well. The top tends to be gritty due to runoff from the upper climbing ledge.

Same start as Butterscotch Puddin, but shuffle right at the lowest ledge and climb the right arete instead. One bolt near the top, then finishes on shared anchor with Butterscotch Puddin.

Rescrubbed Oct/23

The blocky chimney in the middle of the overhung section. The overhang start is the crux and is unprotected, so use a spotter. Gear is a bit sparse.

Rescrubbed Sept/23.

Located on the short wall just as you come up out of the cave along the trail below Pooh Wall area. Climb the dihedral at the left end of the wall, starting from an elevated ledge.

Rescrubbed Nov/23

Trad lower half with a low first bolt. Two pieces in the crack will take you to your bolted bulging crux.

The crack to the right of the big leaning tree. Good gear for the first half, then a couple ok placements, then one bolt just below the anchor.

The mixed route just right of the tree with the serpent like roots. Scramble up to the high first bolt, then tackle the thin balancy slab crux. Once on the ledge, place one or two pieces in the upper crack. Seems run out but it isn’t.

Start on the small elevated ramp, climb up the short slab, then into the short but high quality corner crack.

A strenuous sequence right off the ground, then follow the diagonal crack up to a ledge. A thin finger crack on the left leads to a second ledge, then a flake gets you to the anchor. The gear is quite good but a bit fiddly.

A reachy, technical sequence right off the ground (crux) is protected by two bolts, then the shallow corner crack (10a) takes you to the top. The gear is good, but somewhat spaced out (8 feet or so between placements.

The uneven corner crack in the middle of the wall. Where the crack forks mid route, take the left crack.

Same start as Cha Ching, then take the right option when the crack forks half way up.

Requires big gear (4-5”). Move up the big crack past several blocks to a small cave mid route, then follow the small dihedral crack to the anchors.

The parallel crack near the right end of the main wall. Takes pro very well but requires several pieces in the 3-4” range. Wide jamming skills required. Generally considered sandbagged at the original grade of 10a.

Hidden gem of a trad route at the right end of the main wall. Start up the finger crack to gain the small ledge, then climb the crux middle crack to the large ledge above. A single bolt protects the last few moderate moves to the anchor.

The arete at the far right end of the crag. Trad start and bolts at the top. A potential ledge fall from the crux keeps traffic to a minimum on this one.

Requires large gear. The very wide crack to the right of the mossy slab across from Stumpa Lumpagus et al. Getting mossy despite being recently scrubbed.

The wide corner crack at the entrance to the crag. The bottom half is cruisy, but the section above the bulge is a bit of an off width grovel. Bring LOTS of big gear, at least three pieces of 5” or larger.

The short trad crack on the left as you enter the main crag. Good beginner lead with solid and plentiful gear placement opportunities.

The prominent flake crack that runs up the middle of the main wall. The gear is fair but difficult to inspect in places. The crux is near the top, traversing to the left at the roof.

Start up the left side of the broad gulley in the middle of the main wall. The gear is poor for the first 10-15’ but quite good after. The crux is the last couple moves before the anchor.

Climb the broken flake system on the right side of the central gulley. Pro is finicky due to the nature of the rock, and getting onto the midway ledge is awkward and likely the crux. Better climbing for the top half.

A low first bolt protects the first few moves before the climb enters an excellent crack up the slab. Located on the west wall just to the right of the spire.

The leftmost climb on the east facing aspect of the ridge opposite from the main wall. A series of cracks that takes gear well. Quality climbing but very short.

Climbs the larger crack near the left end of this satellite wall. The first few starting moves are the crux. Another fun but short climb on this wall.

A good quality corner crack up the left end of this small wall. As the crack steepens, avoid the overhang by climbing onto the face on the left.

The route at the right end of this small wall. Start up a pillow slab, use a sling around the tree as a second piece of protection, then tackle the crux overhang mid-route. Finish up a slabby crack section to the anchor.

The leftmost route at the crag. Start up the wide broken crack to gain a prominent ledge half way up. Then take the left of two wide upper cracks to the anchor above, which is shared with Scoundrel. Recleaned in 2023.

Starts up a diagonal crack to the mid way ledge shared with Dagobah. Then head right up a bolted slab (crux), then into a short wide crack that leads to the anchor, also shared with Dagobah. Guidebook says gear to 4”, but a #5 is useful at the top. Recleaned in 2023.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The thin crack at the left end of the wall. Start through an overhang to gain the finger crack. One bolt protects a run out section in the middle.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The mixed route near the left end of the crag. A tricky start to a high first bolt, then face climb past two more bolts, through the crux overhang, and join the upper third of the Gizzard crack.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The overhung crack just left of the arete. Burly start, with strenuous but solid gear placements. Easier higher up.

Re cleaned June/22. The striking flake crack just left of Wrinkle. Start up the pillar as per Wrinkle, then move left and engage the crack. The gear is good, but the crack is fractured and has several loose blocks so place gear wisely.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The left of the two obvious corner crack systems on the wall. Plentiful gear opportunities, need up to #3 and a #4 is helpful.

Re cleaned Sept/22. The right of the two obvious corner cracks on this wall. Scramble up a small pillar, up a thin crack/face with two bolts, then into the quality corner crack above.

Rescrubbed Sept/21

Rescrubbed Aug 2021

Leftmost climb on B Wall. Follow the obvious dihedral crack to the crux overhang above the ledge. Shares the last three bolts and anchor with Cascade Reaction.

Requires a single piece of gear between 5th and 6th bolts. Shares final three bolts and anchor with Besieged.

The low angle corner crack near the right end of A Wall’s first pitch. Heavily vegetated.

Near the right end of the lower pitch of A Wall. Climb the thin crack on the easy slab, placing gear for the first 20 feet, then past three bolts. Next climb the vertical crack, then into a finger crack in the distinct shape of a bolt of lightning (crux). The top anchor is tucked under a large overhang so is very difficult to reach from above.