루트들 전통등반로서 Vancouver Island에서

Gear to 1”

Gear to .5”

The variation start to the left of the start to Sky Diving Wood Bugs

(Open)

(Roche Cove)

Out of Condition

The arete at the far right end of the crag. Trad start and bolts at the top. A potential ledge fall from the crux keeps traffic to a minimum on this one.

Overhanging block with two bolts, right of fallen hippy(hanger missing). small nuts for the concealed upper crack (ditto summer breeze) Avoid the manky station and climb right to the big ledge and its a rap anchor.

One old fixed piton. climb the thin cracks at the right hand end of the big roof recent reports of rotten rock at the crux

A reachy, technical sequence right off the ground (crux) is protected by two bolts, then the shallow corner crack (10a) takes you to the top. The gear is good, but somewhat spaced out (8 feet or so between placements.

The short but strenuous route on the big detached pillar. Climb the face and left arete. The off width crack on the right is way off route. Has one permadraw to enable clipping for the crux from a safe stance. Requires trad gear at the top, 0.3” - 1”.

Obvious overhanging hand finger crack waiting to eat you for dinner starts with easy face climbing but gets harder and harder bolted face moves take you to rap anchors

(Roche Cove)

Furthest left route on the main wall (Gear to 1”)

OUT OF CONDITION

Climb the starting flake crack of Tennessee Waltz, then head straight up on a bolt line to the right of the roof.

First pitch is sport (10c)

Straight up the vertical crack in the middle of the black beauty bulge.

Gear to 5". Pitch 1 is a stemming dihedral with a thin finger crack, into broken blocks and a belay. Pitch 2 features a left, offwidth corner. 2x 35m raps down.

Gear to 2". Climb slim groove to the ledge then finger crack to the top.

Out of Condition

Pitch 1: Climb a beautiful open book corner up a large sloping ledge, clip a long sling to the high bolt anchor (rap station) and break out left around the corner. pull some hard moves up another open book, at the top step left to the top of a pillar.

Pitch 2: Stiff moves off the anchor lead to a perfect layback and smearing corner, exit the layback by going left around the horn, then step back right to the anchors.

Pitch 3: climb and scramble over cracks and blocks to the base of the large corner system below the roof.

Pitch 4: Fist stacks, armbars, hand jams, thin fingers, and stemming, and laybacks, this pitch has it all! Charge up the corner system to the bast of the roof. Break out left on an airy traverse with small holds and smears, then pull the corner of the roof to gain a short crack system to the anchors.

Pitch 5: Cruse some moderate slab to the base of a short headwall, taller folk can reach a crucial fingerlock, shorter folk need to get crafty or french-free it.

Rack: Doubles from 1/4" all the way up to 4", if in doubt bring more! these cracks eat gear!

a single 60m rope works for all Raps

A0 Mixed The nameless seldom sent death trap(detached hanging flake is gone) is now the start of an excursion to the top of mt wells follow the right-hand edge of the block up to the roof, then step left onto its top. Follow the line of bolts up to the ledge then step right to the bolt ladder. (easily aided making the pitch 10b, A0) climb this to the large ledge.

Highball up the stiff slab and crimps to the diagonal seam, place as much pro as you feel will keep to safe, then launch up more slopers and crimpers to the top. there are no bolted anchors, except for a tree way back from the edge of the crag. If anyone wants to Retro bolt this one, go for it

follow the flakes left side until you can traverse right

follow the flakes left side and traverse out left through cracks and face climbing.

(Roche Cove) variation of Girlyman

Unfinished. Out of Condition

(Hissing Bull)

The variation start to Complex Thoughts

The leftmost climb at the crag, around the corner and slightly uphill from the left main wall. Solid gear throughout. Lie backs for the bottom half, hand jams for the top half.

The parallel crack near the right end of the main wall. Takes pro very well but requires several pieces in the 3-4” range. Wide jamming skills required. Generally considered sandbagged at the original grade of 10a.

A long, unmistakable curving crack that ends about two thirds up the cliff face. Among the first FA’s at the Narrows and therefore historically one of the first established crag climbs on Vancouver Island. Probably the closest thing the island has to a truly historical non-alpine rock climb.

Climb the large curved flake crack (originally its own climb, known as The Sickle) up under the awesome Tennessee Roof. Escape from under the roof onto the face on the left then up to ring anchors.

This wonderful climb was established in two parts the upper by Allen and Takuma and the lower by Raphael and allen.

it climbs up from the quantum ledge, in the dike that crosses up the mountain topping out near firewall.

Follow Friends but clipp bolts to the right to the over hanging finger crack above the lip put your friends in the dike and move left to bolted anchors (5.11a Direct Variation)

Climb past one bolt, and into the crack system above the overhang.

(Roche Cove)

Out of Condition