Routen als traditionell in Vancouver Island

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove)

(Roche Cove) variation of Girlyman

(Hissing Bull)

(Hissing Bull)

(Hummingbird Wall)

(Hummingbird Wall)

few reachy moves put you into a 5.9 gear swallowing crack 20 meters gear to 2 inches

Tricky moves along the ramp allows you access to the crack and great gear

gear to 3 inches the left side of the huge crack is now a test piece for gear heads. watch for a few fixed pieces and bring a few slings with you

climb chimney for about 10m then climb out on to the face on the right side of the crack.

follow the flakes left side and traverse out left through cracks and face climbing.

follow the flakes left side until you can traverse right

follow the flakes right side where you can step out left and up to a bolted station. or continue right to the top of nrfom gear to 2 inches

Leftmost route on the main wall

Rack to 2”

Farthest (Climbers) Left anchors, tricky start, walk off.

Big crack to the right of Wiggin Nark, 2nd set of anchors from climbers left

Slightly right of Mungle Crack, thin crack and small shelves for your feet. 3rd set of anchors from climbers left

Farthest climb on the right, follow the big crack right to a ledge, then head left towards the anchor.

Located around 100 meters to the left of Whale Power

when approaching the crag, instead of taking the right trail take the left trail to the base of this climb

Climb past one bolt, and into the crack system above the overhang.

a small amount of face climbing leads to a superb right-leaning finger crack that will eat your passive gear!

start in the V below the small roof and climb the corner, when you reach the roof you have 3 options. break out left with little pro until you pull the edge of the roof. Head straight through the middle of the roof and into the thin crack above. Pull through the right side of the roof and enter the great crack system above.

all options feel very similar and go at the same grade.

Highball up the stiff slab and crimps to the diagonal seam, place as much pro as you feel will keep to safe, then launch up more slopers and crimpers to the top. there are no bolted anchors, except for a tree way back from the edge of the crag. If anyone wants to Retro bolt this one, go for it

Climb The Delightful Mr. Bongles up to the diagonal seam then break out across it, finishing on Noah's Ark

Climb the obvious black chimney. Bouldery start leads to enjoyable, full-body climbing above. Fairly good pro protects you as you stem to chains.

Leftmost route (tree anchor)

Straight up the vertical crack in the middle of the black beauty bulge.

One old fixed piton. climb the thin cracks at the right hand end of the big roof recent reports of rotten rock at the crux

Overhanging block with two bolts, right of fallen hippy(hanger missing). small nuts for the concealed upper crack (ditto summer breeze) Avoid the manky station and climb right to the big ledge and its a rap anchor.

A0 Mixed The nameless seldom sent death trap(detached hanging flake is gone) is now the start of an excursion to the top of mt wells follow the right-hand edge of the block up to the roof, then step left onto its top. Follow the line of bolts up to the ledge then step right to the bolt ladder. (easily aided making the pitch 10b, A0) climb this to the large ledge.

Thin crack on wall left of portapotty. face climbing leads to crack and small roof section. finish on biig ledge at the summer breeze rap anchor.

Face moves to the right facing corner of the block then thin moves along the crack. nuts and small cams theres a rap anchor under roof and one on top the new bolted extension

Obvious overhanging hand finger crack waiting to eat you for dinner starts with easy face climbing but gets harder and harder bolted face moves take you to rap anchors

Take the right-facing corner to the ledge above Don Juans crack find the fault through the roof and scale the small wall above rap anchor

Follow your gear up the lay back crack then move left over the bulge to the sickle shaped finger crack and facing corner belay from the rock pillar with many slings

Follow Friends but clipp bolts to the right to the over hanging finger crack above the lip put your friends in the dike and move left to bolted anchors (5.11a Direct Variation)

3P mixed 10b/A0

5.10b

5.9

5.9

access from crooked goose on crooked goose area.

Climb one of the approach pitches to the midpoint ledge above the Cooked Goose area. Either P1 of Summerbreeze, Cooked Goose, or traverse in from the top of With Maple Syrup.

from the 3'd set of anchors follow the bolts and cracks to the top of the cliff. Expect some fun jugs, a tiny bit of slab, and some sweet nut placements. all cruxes have been bolted.

47m mixed. Requires small cams, rack of nuts and 14 60cm slings (regular Squamish rack plus a couple extra slings). From the High Friends anchor, head straight up to the overhang then left on bomber buckets (2 bolts). Tread left following the dike until the crack welcomes you on the right (2 bolts). Follow it to the top. Rap the Fallen Arches route or walk off the top. Named as such for the first ascent attempt was interrupted by cries of help coming from the Humpback Valley and FA bailed to render aid.

Climb the right side of the large flake, bring your big cams!

Gear to .5”

Gear to 1”

BEGINNER TEST PEICE

First pitch is sport (10c)

This wonderful climb was established in two parts the upper by Allen and Takuma and the lower by Raphael and allen.

it climbs up from the quantum ledge, in the dike that crosses up the mountain topping out near firewall.

SUPER FUN! bring your crack technique

P1 5.8 Trad up a dike into the crack system and onto the slab (25m) P2 5.9 sport nicely featured steep face climbing along the right edge of an arete. P3 5.7 Trad up the water gully bring extra long draws step up detached flake/pilar

gear to 5"

This route is to the right of the basalt pillar that curves. climbs the right crack not the left one and the small crimps straight up. to an anchor on your left.

Named after a flake cleaned on the FA that rocketed toward a pooch at the base.

Climb the large curved flake crack (originally its own climb, known as The Sickle) up under the awesome Tennessee Roof. Escape from under the roof onto the face on the left then up to ring anchors.

Climb the starting flake crack of Tennessee Waltz, then head straight up on a bolt line to the right of the roof.

A short, vegetated crack 20 meters right of Tennessee Waltz. Has ring anchors.

The large, straight diagonal heavily vegetated crack that goes right to the top of the cliff.

A long, unmistakable curving crack that ends about two thirds up the cliff face. Among the first FA’s at the Narrows and therefore historically one of the first established crag climbs on Vancouver Island. Probably the closest thing the island has to a truly historical non-alpine rock climb.

Routes from Green Onions to Right Guard are not in the right order

A bold climb with marginal gear in its original state warranted an R/X rating. Stewart Wozny made an initial bold foray with near success, subsequently completed by Daryl Hatten

Originally done in 2 short pitches

Furthest left route on the main wall (Gear to 1”)