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Follow the nice finger crack that widens large hands at the top.

Belay the second from the top.

Either walk down or rappel down "Crime of the Century"

First two pitches can be done through the trees if starting on the right hand side or do Calculus Direct and start in Pitch 3 of Calculus Crack route;

1. Start as for St Vitus' Dance to tree belay in ledge

2. Keep going up through the trees with a hard move right of the ledge 3)Step left into two bolt anchor so you get belayed with no rope drag, and follow the double crag until gets steep, step left and build gear belay small ledge at the start of finger crack, long pitch 50m

3. Climb the finger crack with solid finger locks and solid gear, a few more meters of easier climbing and build belay at start of next steep ramp

4. Continue up the crag and keep going up until the angle eases into an easy slab and angle right to a two bolt belay 6)Keep going up through easy terrain to the ledge, we did it unroped or possible to combine with previous pitch just continue going up until you reach the trees and memorial ledge

220m. A generally easy and un-sustained, but sometimes run-out climb across and up the Apron.

1. (5.4, 20-30m) Climb easy but unprotected slab to a horizontal break, then traverse right until a pair of birch trees.

2. (5.easy, 30m) Continue right along the horizontal break, slightly up then curving back down until a stand of trees.

3. (5.5 R, 15m) Stem up a tree, then step onto a slab. Friction up the unprotected slab to more trees.

4. (5.7, 30m) Climb unprotected slab above the trees towards trending leftwards, then step right to a bolt. Pull a couple 5.7 moves past the bolt, then more unprotected slab left to a corner. Surmount the corner and bulge above, then traverse up and left to trees.

5. (5.4, 15m) Move left to an obvious flake then up into a groove. Make a gear belay.

6. (5.7, 30m) Pull up onto the slab right of the belay and angle up and right on un-protected slab to into a corner, follow this for a bit, then left and up to trees.

7. (5.4 50m) Climb up into a water runnel; follow this and obvious cracks until you find a stance with small gear behind a flake and belay.

8. (5.4 50m) Continue up the flake above past a detached piece of slab, then up the easier slab to the trees.

Protecting the boulder at the bottom is a good idea. Nice mellow climbing to a vertical section heading left into a great crack to the anchors. Good protection

Bolted belay stations! A classic moderate that you can add some flare to if you want!

To the right of Magic Carpet Ride, you'll find the very obvious clean start.

1. Start on some good slabby edges up past a bolt, gain the crack and move right. Bolt-protected slab traverse gets you to the first belay station.

2. 5.8 a classic corner with an optional 5.10 variation. The variation has a mild runout on the first tenuous moves.

3. Ascend a nice and easy right-leaning crack system with a kicker at the end.

4. An easy pitch but the main reason people climb this route - fantastic views as you traverse the slab beside a good roof.

5. A short pull gains the upper slab and a quick walk past 3 bolts finds the top anchor.

Walk off to climber's right.

PDF Topo by Jeremy Frimer

Solid 5.8.

Climb the finger-to-hand layback crack through a bulge to easier climbing above.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors.

Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead.

Considered one of the finest 10a cracks in the bluffs. Amazing and sustained best sum it up.

Start at a small corner a bit up and to the right of Route B, follow the thin crack to a corner in the upper part of the cliff, then on to 2 bolts as anchors.

Start 11m left of the 2nd Easy Way Down, where the obvious zig-zagging crack goes up the cliff. Climb up, generally angling left for the first half, then right, finishing at the large pine tree. Numerous variations are possible. (The flake of the name now rests in pieces at the bottom, courtesy of Gyula Pech, autumn 1985.) Anchors.

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: move the belay across the ledge to a pair of bolts at the base of a large vertical flake corner. climb this then traverse broken ledges to a bolted anchor.

P6: The money pitch! walk across the ledge to the end and mantle up, then climb the large chimney with good gear in the back to a tree anchor.

P7: more broken low 5th terrain to a tree anchor at the top.

Start at the flaring narrow chimney, and climb past this (low crux) to a rock spike, then up an obvious series of cracks to 2 bolts for anchors at the top.

Angel's Crest is a classic 5-star multi-pitch route that is one of the longest and most adventurous 5.10 routes on the Chief. This route ascends the "north arete", the entire ridge to the R of the North Gully.

1. 5.10b Up a slab past a few bolts and over a bulge (crux). Clip the rap anchor and continue around to another slab with 4 more bolts to the base of Angle crack

2. 5.10b Angel Crack. A L-leaning fingers to hand layback crack with good rests. Finishing with a short hand traverse L under a block before moving up to the belay ledge.

3. 5.10b Out L and up face to a groove, then up and R back to the arête.

4. 5.6 Easy scrambling up the slabby arête.

5. 5.10a Steep Face - Up steep face. Move R below a bulge, then up easier through a R corner to a ledge.

6. 5.5 Easy ground to a small ledge with trees.

7. 5.10a Up two ramps and R. Finish up a L facing corner to reach the ledge.

8. 5.9 (alt. 5.10a) Up R, and then up through the trees to groove. Follow up R, then up to the ledge with trees. Alternative pitch - An off-width on the L (5.10a).

9. 5.5 Acrophobes Traverse. Follow trail and scramble L and up to the base of the Lower Tower. Up diagonally, then hand traverse the ridge to the summit of the Lower Tower. Note there are alternative routes here The Acrophobes Towers, A knife edge over which you climb to eventually rappel off the back side.

10. 5.8 Through the notch, climb back to the west, across, and up to a fixed-line. Downclimb to a small dirt ledge. Scramble along the ramp into a gully to escape the route.

11. 5.7 (alt. 5.10a) Up and L through the easy ground until the Whale-Back arête leads up and R to a small stance. At the top of the arete, move R to belay from a piton above the twisted cedar tree. An alternate pitch - The crack on R (5.10a).

12. 5.10a Climb the crack system above the gnarled route and over the piton. Sustained climbing takes you to a big ledge and a bolted belay.

13. 5.8 On the R of the ledge, a crawl space on a sloped ramp leads to a rock mount, from where you can step across to the far face of a deep chimney.

The original final pitch moved up the face directly above and behind the crack of the previous pitch, avoiding the chimney.

Alternate start to get around people:

1. 5.7 Step up R for a few metres to a small ledge, then up a dirty vegetated corner to a larger ledge.

2. 5.8 Starting on R. Blocky moves lead up to an obvious crack system finishing at base of angels crack.

Start about 6m right of the Main Corner, and climb the face up to a 2-bolt anchor. Lots of variations possible.

Climb the obvious crack that leads to blocks about 3m right of the arete (Broken Corner). Variations around the "block" are possible.

About 2m left of Main Corner is a thin crack that leads up to a ledge and a continuation of the crack above the ledge. 2 Bolts as anchors.

Approach: Walk along the Mamquam Road up to the fire hazard sign and follow the trail through boulders to the first obvious climb. This is 'Calculus Crack Direct'. You want to head right around the corner.

1. Pull a short crack move to trees and roots pulling until a second, somewhat longer, crack.

2. Climb up a broken crack system to baseline ledge. Consider climbing the obvious hand to off-width crack listed as 'St. Bernard P1' instead.

3. The long obvious hand-crack. Belay just above a bulge. Keep a #3 for the anchor.

4. Step up and right, following discontinued cracks to a chimney-like feature with a crack inside. Belay off of a combination of cams, bush and slung flake.

5. Climb up the shallow cracks to a steep hand crack. Belay off of a tree or (70m) link to the top.

6. Wander up the slab and move left to a low angle crack with a high first step. Belay off of a tree.

Descent:

Recommended

Rappel off of calculus crack's anchor into the gully (4x 30m) ;

Or

Exposed

Scramble up a short right-leaning crack to a ledge below 'Karen's Math' and wander up the gully to the right. Keep going right to broadway ledge and descend along the south trail.

A prominent left facing corner 10m to the right of Arete and Ramp. Climb up to a square block. Pass it on the right, then continue up the corner, using the arete as desired. Finish up a short wall.

Opening move onto the initial ramp is unusually difficult, then rest of the climb goes at a comfortable 5.5.

2 pitches. crack climb.Bolted belays. Walk off to the left is fun in its own way. bring more 1-1.5"cams

Starts a meter or so right of Main Corner, then up onto a sloping ledge (ramp) and upwards to the corner above. 2 bolts for anchor.

From the top of the apron take the trail towards the Squamish Buttress.

P1: face climb past a small roof and one bolt, then follow broken cracks and face holds up and left to a tree anchor

P2: Climb more broken cracks left towards a large ledge and belay from a tree

P1 & 2 can be linked with a 70m rope.

P3&4: Moderate climbing up broken 5.7 terrain.

P5: climb the vertical crack over some broken terrain to a tree anchor below the white 10c corner. \

P6: Thre wicked-looking steep, white corner. Jam and stem your way to the top! The top is the crux but can be easily aided with good gear. The fixed pin mentioned in guide books is long gone, but there are good nut placements instead.

Start at the left side of the lower apron.

1. (5.7 30m) Climb up a shallow groove, then past a bolt then up slab to an anchor.

2. (5.7 30m) Foot traverse up and right along the crack, then up a bulge and a few face moves to an anchor.

3. (5.7 20m) Follow the bolts (6?) to the next anchor.

4. (5.8 10m) Follow the bolts up the head wall, then up to the anchor. Rappel; or continue past the anchor to trees if continuing up the Apron.

Can be linked into just two pitches.

Well protected finger crack. You could probably climb it with just nuts.

Start directly behind a cedar tree at the base of the cliff. There is a distinctive curving crack around a bulge 7m up the face. Climb straight up to this crack, continue up to a small roof, then traverse left 2m under the roof. Either continue traversing left to an easy exit, or climb straight up through the a notch in the roof ( a bit harder, maybe 5.6). Anchors.

Climbs just left of the corner that "Sour Grass" climbs -- pick one of two starts to a left-slanting crack and follow this.

Climb up over a section of fractured rock to smoother slab then a small oval cave. Continue up past the cave to the top anchors. (Rap rings.)

Very high first bolt -- gear nice at the start, but not needed thereafter. Can be climbed sport if you don't mind the high-ball start.

The obvious "main corner". 2 bolts for an anchor at top.

Starts at the Memorial Ledge. climb up the obvious crack. 40m Belay off of hidden bolts on the boulder at the top.

Start 3m right of 'First Flight', underneath a small overhang 5m above the ground. Climb up and to the right on small holds, bypassing the overhang on its right side. Continue more or less straight to the top.

There is one bolt below the bulge and a 2nd bolt just over the lip of the bulge. The route has 3 bolts, takes some gear as well, and finishes with bolted anchors.

Great sustained climbing all the way. Bolted anchors.

You can either climb the two pitches (5.10b, 5.10a) of "Apron Strings" or approach via the exposed "Flake Escape Ledge".

P1: (5.8) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout P2: (5.9) Slab climbing up a dyke. Runout. Traverse right to the base of a roof. This move is often wet. P3: (5.10b) Traverse under the roof to a bolt ladder. P4: (5.10b) "Split Pillar" Beautiful crack. Finishes as a squeeze chimney. Bring 2x #3 1x #4 P5: (5.11a) "The Sword" Layback crack to a crux and more layback. Grab the rope of glory and aid to the anchor. P6: (5.11a) "Perry's Lieback" Traversing layback to a great chimney-like rest, then jugs to the anchors. P7: (5.10a) Traverse along a flat ledge to some 5.9 slab moves and finish with a 5.10a reach move. (Some may need to aid). Belay below a flake. P8: (5.10c) Climb up the tree then traverse layback around the flake and walk up to a ledge Protect the second. To escape via "Bellygood Ledge", climb right to an anchor. To head to the 'Roman Chimneys', head left. P9: (5.6) Traverse across the Bellygood ledge. Exposed.

Descent: Head down climber's right to some slabs and fixed ropes and eventually regain the Chief's hike.

Climb up a thin crack and then move right to a bolt. Climb up past another bolt to the anchors.

Start right and then go left to follow the feature. The bottom is the crux. Once past the third bolt, it's smooth sailing. Takes a # .75 in the horizontal after the 3rd bolt, or a couple pieces between the 3rd & 4th bolts.

New mulitpich that carries on above Klahanie crack.

This is Bon Echo's first route, and remains the traditional introduction for beginning climbers. (There is a 5.0 variant.)

Start: the tree-filled gully north of The Pinnacle

1. 15m (4th class) Scramble up the gully and over scree to a pair of large trees on the left. (If you really want a 5.0 climb, scramble further up the gully on the right to the Saucer Lucy and Thin Nick start, then follow 2 alt.)

2. 35m (5.2) Climb the break in the boulders and follow the ramp leftwards up to the ridge. Work your way right up a crack to a ledge covered with loose boulders. Round the nose on the skyline and climb the easy angled wall to a large stance by a silver birch tree (with a 2 bolt belay station).

3. 25m (5.0) Move left up the slab above the the birch tree to a groove which leads to a ledge by some Juniper bushes. Climb left to the ridge and follow it to a ledge with a small strong cedar tree where the angle of the ridge eases. This tree is a good example of the ancient cedars on the cliff. Don't sling -- there's a bolt. Belay here, or continue to the top.

4. 15m (5.0) Prance on up to the top. Belay at the two bolt rap station. Two ropes are needed for the rappel.

2a. 30m (5.0) Climb corners and ledges up and left to the silver birch belay at the end of the standard 2nd pitch.

(Was in the database as "The Birthday Route". No route with that exact name existed, this seemed the most likely match.)

Start at a large lone boulder and follow the left crack all the way to the top.

The obvious crack that angles up leftwards on the left side of the main face. Follow this up to blocky ground, then angle up rightwards following the crack to a pair of bolts for an anchor. Generally a good trad lead, taking good gear.

Historically a 5.1, but significant erosion at the start has greatly increased the difficulty of the opening moves. The crux start can be avoided by a bit of slab climbing up the face just to the right, until reaching the good hand ledge & traversing left into the corner at about 5.3.

A steep face with good holds to the first bolt, then a tough pull onto the slab (crux), to the 2nd bolt. Easy climbing from there onwards, with good gear, to the anchors.

Label stone at bottom.

Great rock great jams great pro crux at the bottom

Look for a 6m long elongated boulder at the base of the cliff, with two cedar trees growing on top. Start directly behind the right (now dead) cedar tree. Face climb straight up 6m to a small overhang. A tricky move on good holds allows one to pull over the overhang moving slightly left. Then easy climbing to the top, now with a bolted anchor.

Cedar Hollow has been cleaned & retro-bolted (3 bolts), with a plaque now labeling it as "Breakfast in Vienna, 5.9 T".

A really nice mixed climb a couple meters to the right of Neat Cafe. There is a marker at the bottom of the climb.

The left-most of the beautiful splitter cracks on this face.

Two pitches. Great start to "The Grand Wall"

P1: Lieback crack to an exit crux, then follow V-groove. Small pro. P2: Discontinued crack climbing to "Flake Escape Ledge"

Start 4m right of Phasers on Stun. Climb up a crack, move left and up to the base of a small overhang. Avoid this by stepping right and moving up a tricky dihedral to the top.

Apparently rock fall has made the upper section harder than it was when it was first climbed. Anchors.

Main left crack. Tricky move off the ground 5.6/7 afterwards

Up the right crack

An awesome finger crack

The left-most named climb on the Main Corner area, it goes up the Arete at the foot of the ascent/descent gully. Variations branching out on the wall to the left of the Arete are possible. 2 bolt anchor at top.

Bolted anchor at top

Climb a very deep right-facing corner to a chimney up high. Good quality and easier than it looks.

Middle crack of the lower triple.

2nd splitter crack from the right side of the face.

Near the middle of the cliff there is a detached pinnacle (about the only clear pinnacle on the cliff); this climbs the south (right) ramp of the pinnacle to the top, then steps across onto the main face and up to the top.

Start at the corner of the ramp up to the pinnacle from the south, and generally follows the arete.

1. 40m (5.4) Climb the arete and slab to a large ledge with a bolted anchor.

2. 30m (5.4) Climb the arete to a ledge below a smooth slab, move left onto the face and up some steeper moves to rejoin the arete, then continue up the arete to the pinnacle. Belay to avoid rope drag or enjoy the pinnacle.

3. 10m (5.4) Step across to the main face, and climb to the top, looking left for a two-bolt anchor.

("Pinical" was in the database -- but there was no matching route. I am guessing this refers to the classic "Front of the Pinnacle", rather than "Back of the Pinnacle". Renamed to preserve assents, rather than delete & recreate.)

Left-most crack/double-crack. Leads to anchor for Snuggle.

At the far right of the climbable area, look for the obvious left-facing vertical corner. Climb this direct to a short wall, then up to a pair of bolts for anchors. A couple of bolts have recently been added in places that used to be protect by old pitons.

There are a couple variations: Piton Arete: use the Arete to bypass the hard moves in the corner. 5.6. Piton Byway: follow Piton Highway to the hard moves, traverse right on big holds, then up right of the Arete. 5.6

Starts in a deep corner, goes up this for a few meters, then as it becomes dirty, step left onto the main face and follow the nice hand crack to the top.

Climb the very obvious and large crack on the left side of the wall. Anchor is the same as The Mechanic.

The corner to the right of Odeum.

An easy route, but new leaders might be disappointed with the pro for the first half.

Use the bolt at the top to re-direct your rope away from the trunk of the cedar.

Follow the series of cracks on the far left of the cliff. Possible to use trad gear to lead.

Hand Crack, crosses "Miss Five" near the top.

A left-leaning offwidth situated about 40m right of Rainy Day Dram Away. The majority of the crack is #2 and bigger, and finishes at the midset of hooks.

The extension "A Pitch in Time Extension" goes at 10d and follows the thin crack past the anchors.

Please don't Toprope from these hooks, instead set up your own TR system, and only use the hooks for lowering.

Nice finger Crack

Sign at the bottom says,"Trdlo 5.9T".

Start 6m to the right of "Crack and Jugs", at the base of a column-like ridge. Climb up the right side of the ridge in a wide dihedral to a small maple tree (8m). Face climb straight up to anchor.