Voies trad dans Canada

Enjoyable little trad climb on an otherwise sport climbing dominant crag. Short but sweet, standard set of black diamond stopper nuts should do the job.

Climb the left facing corner crack through a shallow chimney to the first ledge and start of the corner offwidth crack. The crack is short but well worth the effort. Climb the crack to the upper ledge. The chains can be found on the left facing wall about 1.5m above the upper ledge. A few large CAMALOTS C4 #5- #7 will eliminate the run out in the upper wife section.

Climb Current Account and continue up and left along the flake. Bring a medium/large nut to protect the top or run it out. Second the pitch and make two raps to reach the ground.

Gear to 1.5"

Follow the crack up a short crux to easier terrain. Ignore the first set of anchors to clip bolts above B3.

Easy climbing directly upwards from the large crack. Don't be fooled by the first bolts halfway up and continue to the second set.

Minimal protection.

Tree anchor.

Gear to No.5

Great climb, impossible to get lost on. All gear anchors, very few fixed pieces. Bring doubles or triples of 0.3-1 cams (BD). Amazing views!

Can be done in 9 pitches with a 70m rope and around 10-14 with a 60m. Note the descent trail down Mt Indefatigable is long closed for Grizzly protection. It is possible to descend via a 500m scree chute back to the approach path. After scrambling up to the meadow follow the knife blade ridge east until a scree fan is seen descending steeply all the way down.

Follows the crest of a narrow rib to the left of the Kidd Falls drainage. Minimal fixed gear, with the exception of the rappel anchors to descend from the top of pitch 10.

Head to the back side of west end until you see a clean slab wall with a large pillar on top.

This three pitch climb on the second crack line left of the big corner RH arete.

1. 50m (5.5) Climb up slab via the cracks, to the leftmost corner. Continue up easy climbing to a belay, identified by old slings.

2. 50m (5.5) Cruise up the chimney

3. 40m (5.4) Head up towards the slab and then trend left towards BBQ Ledge

Descend via slab traverse out left to the scree

1. 50m (5.5) Head up the RH cracks into a chimney. Continue upwards until you hit the first of two ledges facing some steeper climbing.

2. 50m (5.5) Climb upwards until you the top of the chimney and stop before you hit the easy slab. Belay in crack

3. 40m (5.4) Continue up the easy slab, trending left towards BBQ Ledge

1. 5.5, 27m.

2. 5.7, 30m.

3. 5.4, 27m.

4. 5.6, 35m.

5. 5.5, 43m.

6. 5.7, 35m.

7. 5.6, 20m.

1. 5.8, 45m.

2. 5.4, 30m.

3. 5.8, 30m.

4. 5.9, 30m.

5. 5.10a, 35m.

6. 5.9 or 5.10b (left var.), 35m.

A quality line starting just right of Direttissima offering mostly bolt protected climbing for the first 5 pitches then 4 pitches with a more traditional flare, topping out on the summit block. Techy slab cruxes down low and typical steep blocky climbing up top. A single rack from micro's to #4 is useful.

Shares the first pitch with High Voltage. Mostly bolted protection however a single rack from micro cams to #3 is required and a #4 BD is useful in a few places. Fairly straight line however double ropes are required if you wish to rap off or need to bail.

very fun crack roof and corner, a must do for a climb of Bottleneck

very fun route, climbs one of the striking corners on the lower half of the face and good route finding, traversing and runouts make this one of the best routes around.

1. 5.6, 45m. Climb the main groove up and right to a ledge.

2. 5.7 or 5.8 (right var.), 20m. Climb the crack to the left of the belay or the wall to the right.

3. 5.7 or 5.8 (direct var.), 45m. Climb up the chimney and then traverse right at the ring piton or go straight up the chimney.