Niselheim 대부분 고전등반 7 루트들 에서의 절벽

Start at the right facing corner about 8m left of 'South Face'.

1. Climb up right facing corner to the ledge above.

2. Continue up to the right of the roof to the bolted belay at the top of the right facing corner.

3. Follow the features out right and up. (no bolted belay)

4. Work back left towards the summit. (bolted anchor at the top)

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of Pitch 4 to the top of pitch 2. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).

Start as per 'South Face Direct'.

1. as per 'South Face Direct'.

2. as per 'South Face Direct'.

3. Follow bolts up for a more direct finish to the anchor above.

Descent: as per 'South Face Direct'.

Start below the gully in the middle of the south face, just left of the small cave.

1. Climb up the gully to a small alcove just below the steep face.

2. Continue up the off-width crack in the steep face, features inside the crack provide good hand holds. Continue up the slab above and then climb the chimney through the hole above. Anchor on the steep face to the left.

3. Climb the exposed steep face to the summit. It is possible to use the bolted anchors of 'South Face Direct' at the top.

Descent: Two 60m ropes required, two 70m recommended) Rappel Down using the anchors of 'South Face Direct'. Could not find the anchor for pitch 1 (June 2020), but using two 70m ropes can rappel all the way to the base from the top of pitch 2. You could also go into the gully of pitch 1 of 'South Face' and link a 3rd rappel from the small spire in the gully (slings in place but don't appear to be in the best shape).