등정들 독일에서 Retreat로서

Leider sehr moosig und krautig.

Am 3. BH zurückgezogen ...

Abgebrochen, zugewachsen und unangenehm abzusichern.

schon zu platt von den vorherigen Wegen

Oben komplett brüchig

Climbed the first crack up until the end which was too far up. Should have traversed earlier. Used already most of my medium and big friends. Need to come back with double rack of friends and/or better trad skills!:)

Flucht vor dem Gewitter am ersten Ring

Route ist ok, lief auch gut bis ins obere Drittel, aber es rieselt ständig trockene Erde runter und legt sich in Augen und Lunge :-(

Versuch der 1. SL An Schlüsselstelle (Dach) fehlen 5 cm Reichweite.

Dreckig und zugewachsen. Scheint wohl keiner zu klettern. An der verrottenden Baumschlinge hab ich es dann gelassen. Der Stumpf treibt wie blöd und man sieht kaum den Fels (links ums Eck).

again retreated from the key part

Couldn't make out the bolts from the ground so I trusted the topo in the Schwertner book where this is drawn as a single pitch with "high first bolt". Ridiculous. Put one nut in half-way up to the ledge, then realised at the "first bolt" that the traverse is a separate pitch and it's impossible to do it without bringing up a second, so I lowered from there.

Interesting slab/dihedral, badly protected by Red friend and a rusty Normalhaken. Then the Crux, clipping the First ringbolt. Afterwards i bailed, because reaching the Bolt was quite a struggle...

Ziemlich abenteuerliche Route

Hasn't seen an ascent in ages, apparently. Fought my way through the dirt and vegetation up to the second bolt (at around 20 meters), but then didn't know where to go due to lots of vegetation, choss and mostly loose dirt. Guess I'll have to clean this up a bit before giving it another go.

Terrible route! Basically as Christoph Rauch said earlier, completely strange route going all over the place and crossing many lines. I „retreated“ when I was on the east face, because the drag-resistance of the rope was waaaay to high. Maybe, given that it is a historical route, it’s was once okay, but for modern sports climbing I can definitely NOT recommend this route…

Auf dem Weg zum umlenker schiss bekommen

not my day I guess

bad material, took me forever to get to 4.R where I retreated

Followed up to the first bolt and then tried to lead. Gave up above the second bolt.

brutal off-width

Not sure if this attempt is even worth logging, but I chickened out right at the beginning, because the first foot hold was so polished...

From the ground, it looked like the first ten meters would be the problematic part of this endeavour. Oh what wrong an assumption that should turn out to be. Despite it being chossy and dusty, it was easy and you can place a few solid pieces before reaching the bolt on the ledge. There, I already had to set up belay because the way up was blocked by thorns. Bovist brought up scissors and saw, so the journey could go on. Interesting passage up the diagonal ledge to the little rock chamber (original end of pitch 1). From there on, most of the holds were initially covered in (frozen) moss. Dug around a lot and finally found a good cam placement next to the slightly unreliable rock tunnel, so I pushed on and reached the slab beneath the final wall. Unfortunately, the slab, too, was covered in frozen moss, which broke away after standing on it for a few seconds. I quickly put a carabiner in the rusty ring at the end of the slab and backed it up with a small cam. By this time, I had slipped quite a few times already and I realized that I didn't have any more sensible gear on me for the last few meters of climbing. I tried a few times to get over the last steep bit, but had to retreat in the end; lowered off my cam and the rusty bolt.

I seconded until the first bolt to belay Christoph Rauch, but we had to call it a day at that point.

Crux at 2R, it’s started raining

I almost fell right before 3.R and had to grab it. Also my partner wasn't really interested in VIIIa/b moves in a sandy traverse. In short I bailed out.

Felt really off today. Could not make it past the last bolt mentally, didn’t find the promised jugs. Still not convinced this is the correct route.