등정들 Dreistaffelfels에서

Terrific crack dihedral. The lower part looks intimidating, but it's actually the very finish that almost threw me off. The start can be climbed as a shoulder crack (left arm in) and isn't harder than, say, 6. Then a few meters of good jamming get you up into the dihedral, the size of the footholds decreasing in proportion to the height. Then all of a sudden the jams end and you're left standing on eggshells with barely a hold. There's a good hold out on the right, but that one's hard to spot if you're folded into the dihedral like I was. Managed to stay on the wall and got rewarded with a glory jug in the finishing crack (which is easier). Certainly a test piece (and probably harder than 7?).

Quite polished, relatively short, straightforward. The original route apparently went to the left before the top to the last bolt of "Mantlewand".

Difficult passage to get past the single bolt in the lower part. The bolt on the left (above the belay bolt in the little alcove) in the upper part is misleading, the better holds are on the right (and the route goes up on the right according to old guide books, anyway). Good climbing, a little bold.

Good wall climbing, didn't feel too easy for the grade. A cam or nut after the first bolt is sensible, crux is after the second bolt.

Athletic climbing at the left end of the overhang. A little forced in the upper part, you're naturally drawn to the left.

Beautiful dihedral, a little polished despite the fact that you have to protect the lower part yourself. Good placements, though. Easy if you're good on your feet. Up the chimney and wall to the left of the big ring at the end.

Easy start to the big ledge. The overhanging dihedral is tricky to manoeuvre, with dropknees and some wide bridging you can get the weight off your hands somewhat, though. Athletic finish on the big sidepulls. Nice one, although a bit short.

Great line that has seen a good deal of sweaty hands and dirty feet, judging by the polish. Juggy enough to deal with, though. The only tricky part is the start of the upper part into the slightly overhanging dihedral (the second pitch, so to speak). Nice little narrow chimney at the end.

Easy stroll up to the dihedral, then nice bridging with good holds up to a sling and left to the anchor.

Interesting wall climbing in compact rock. Sloping pockets demand good footwork (impeded by slightly greasy footholds) and balance.

Would almost deserve a classic rating, maybe if it was in a more exposed position high up the hill or something. :-D Easy start up the dihedral, then a slightly delicate traverse to the right (it's best to leave out the Bühler bolt above the big hollow flake and extend the next bolt). The bolt in the overhang seems far, but there's a jug in the crack to clip from, so go for it. Powerful crack moves (if you can jam, it's easier) past a rusty ring (didn't clip it) to jugs at the upper edge.

Nice, homogeneous wall, ever so slightly slabby, with lots of big pockets and solid ribs.

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Nice, juggy slab.