등정 Eigerwand에서

This route certainly doesn't have more than a few dozen repeats, probably even less. The first pitch is actually not that bad. Overhanging chimney start, quite funny, then two rusty pegs in short succession, followed by a juggy runout to the belay. Not a single guide book depicts the two pegs making up the stance there. And the funniest thing: the old Bühler guide only describes pitch 2 as (rough translation): "juggy upward to the top". This must either be a joke or just plain wrong. It could even be that the first ascensionists went right instead of left … anyway, I couldn't say for sure until I tried, so I started off into the "second pitch". Turns out it's really chossy and quite hard. Luckily, there's a Bühler bolt in reach (from the route "Drehorgel"), which makes the endeavour look less suicidal. Still broke off some holds on my way there. You get a relatively good flake two meters after the bolt, but I wouldn't trust it. At the very top, just before the tree from which we abseiled, I had to laugh because there's a really shiny peg hammered into a horizontal crack. Obviously someone has really been here in the last 20 years!