등정들 Schrollwand에서 Hang dog로서

Had a hard time figuring out the crux above the third bolt. Involves a long move out left to a mediocre two-finger pocket that wants to be pulled from the left, so you try to get into a gaston position by shuffling your feet around, but then you also need to get them high enough to reach for the big pocket below the bulge. And then there's the finish over the bulge. Tried it on the left first, to no avail. The holds are quite dusty and there's no way to brush them from below, so I eventually gave in to the clipstick idea, only to find out later that my solution in the end would be a dyno to the jug to the right of the anchor.

Didn't get the gaston pocket quite right, so I dropped off. Took me a few attempts to get it right again, but then managed to reach the anchor without resting again. Should work out when fresh.

It went okay until the third bolt, then came the crux where I was promised reachy moves. Sadly, long arms aren't enough here, and I couldn't figure out how to do it. Used the clipstick to get past it, and realized that this is way beyond my current skills. At the next bolt, things looked even more hopeless, so after a few half-assed attempts, I gave up. Seeing Christoph Rauch trying it later convinced me that this is in fact quite hard.

Tried with the beta I had worked out last time. No chance. Had to work it again to finally arrive at a beta that uses the most-ticked hold of the route.

Got the foot up for the final rockover and wanted to pull, but lost grip in my left hand … bummer!

Didn't have any juice left to put the foot up for the final, strenuous heel hook rockover.