등정들 Tüchersfelder Wand에서

Still not enough stamina for the redpoint

Doesn't make sense any more to climb this along the original line. I used the original start, but then climbed straight up like "Abschneider". Great wall climbing with cool hold shapes and some tough sections.

The start felt so much easier in these temps today. Ran up the slab in a breeze, remembered how to do the boulder over the roof, but then went wrong above the big flake, so I had to reverse back and try again, my arms already quite pumped. But as soon as I found the wide crimp, I remembered how to do the last few tricky moves and arrived in relative safety at the jugs. Brilliant route. Long, sustained, never really easy. Draws were already in.

Better than its reputation. Still a bit chossy in some places, but actually not bad. The line is also a bit strange, but makes the most out of otherwise untouched rock, and it climbs nicely. Careful before the first bolt. Crux is to get over the second bolt. The bolts after crossing over the chimney are strangely far to the right, but you should go up the dihedral, not the arête.

I would say it's my style, but that only applies to the lower part. The roof on top is quite athletic, and the holds are still way too sharp for my taste. Especially if you don't see where to go and you climb up and down on them before risking the dyno. Should be done more often to smoothen the holds a bit.

Zu oberflächlich ausgecheckt und beim zweiten Mal bereits vor der Crux ausgepumpt gewesen. Im dritten Versuch nach der Schlüsselstelle nicht aufgepasst. Lang und pumpig, besonders oben schöne Züge. Unten recht knifflig. Leider zu warm und leicht sonnig der Tag.

Wet dihedral in the beginning, good to protect with nuts (and didn't need any wet holds). Crux is at the third bolt, then easier to the last bolt. From there it's probably unproblematic, but today it was wet so I couldn't use all the holds and I was glad when I could reach the anchor.

Brilliant and varied route. Vertical pocket climbing with a difficult passage right at the start, good rest point on the big ledge, then a pumpy overhang on jugs and sidepulls to a mediocre rest, followed by a hard section on small pockets (where I fell off …) and a juggy slab finish. Bolts are wide apart, great falls!

Fell off in exactly the same position … need to find another way to solve that.

4th go

3 Haken auf 30 Metern, lässt sich aber sehr gut zusätzlich absichern mit Friends und/oder Keilen und Schlingen...

Exciting climb. The bolts are in the right places and can be backed up with nuts and slings. The best part in my opinion is the middle section in the open book dihedral. Slightly scary finish through the chimney, I clipped a bolt of the neighbouring route around the corner.

The kind of routes i love! espacially the headwall after the bulge is so great to climb!

2nd go

In the first try I didnt like the route. I was searching the hole time and thinking about is it offroute. But then I started to like the route with the next tries. The most hard part is short time before it goes into Marathon.The bolds are ok. Perhaps its a good idea to clip the first bolt with clipstick or use the first bolt from the following 4 routs. The third bolt (first together with Marathon) is far away, but the last 2 meters are easy.