도움

Assaoud Canyon

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  • 사진들 1
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계절특성

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요약

Canyon on the east side of Um Ishrin

mini guide here http://nobodyz.net/assaoud/

윤리문제 Wadi Rum으로부터 상속된

Sandstone becomes brittle when wet because it absorbs water, this effects its internal structure. Once the rock surface is totally dry, you need to wait another 24 hours before climbing, this gives time for the absorbed water to also evaporate and the rock to regain its strength.

루트들

루트 추가 그림안내지도 추가 재 주문 대용량 편집 변환된 등급
등급 루트

One mega pitch requiring two ropes. Loose rock, expansion bolts in sandstone, scary. The location is approximate, look for bolts.

Spaced bolting ...

Set: Verti Marc

Mixed, Trad and Bolted with glue-ins

6a|bb+|6a|6a|6b|6a

Connects all the way to Jabal Um ishreen highest peak (1753m only one meter less than Jabal Rum peak, or so says the maps). All beduine style, with one section of 3 pitches described below...

Follow the rocky valley up NNW, till you reach a view toward the rest of the valley seeing the slabs facing W.

You go down the gully, jumping over some beduine steps, then taking the first siq/chemeny left then climb zigzag north again till you reach the ledge, there a short 5m problem to a thread to reach the bottom of the slabs where the 3 climbing pitches are:

  • 3 slab, ~35m to a bolted belay visible from the ledge (could be soloed)
  • 5 slab ~25m (threads and pitons in places) to threads on the top
  • 5 Short traverse ~10m left, a scary exposed one reachy/overhang move (with knifed crimp on the left side), poor protection.

From there you put your rope away and enjoy the route-finding challenge all the way to the peak going SWW, crossing the canyon from the west end where it's not very deep, then going all the way south to a gully taking directly to the peak, Cairns exist here and there.

Descent: Reverse the way, on the 3 pitchs one 60m rap to the middle of the 3-graded slab then carefully slide down, or reverse the 3 pitches down climbing first one from the top is possible. One more possible short rap in small Siq if you go a little deeper inside.

Update July 2020: Islam Maani added a new thread, making the scary exposed traverse way less scary, inspect and replace if needed, might need a 30cm metal wire to be able to rethread.

1 4
2 5

On the outer east face, not in the canyon but in wadi Um Ishrin, decent walk off following cairns back into canyon.

FA: Dima Reznik, Kirill Iserlis & Alex Lurye, 3월 2016

1 4
2 5
3 4
4 4

Up from the canyon to the ridge. Descent is by following the ridge and then down a gully.

FA: sergey goncharov, Igor khalistunov & Alex Lurye, 2013

1 5
2 5+
3 5

rap descent

FA: Sergey Goncharov, Igor Khalistunov & Alex Lurye, 2013

1 5+
2 5+
3 6a
4 3+
5 6b
6 3
7 5
8

a system of chimneys, Descent is by rappelling and downclimbing into the canyon.

FA: Kirill Iserlis, Dima Reznik, Alex Lurye & Igor Khalistunov

1 5+
2 6c+
3 5
4 6c
5 5
6

obvious corner, seen to the left when reaching the highest point of the canyon. Descent is by rappelling

FA: Alexander Lurye, Haggai Bonneau & Nadav Yudekovitz

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

일자: 2017

ISBN: 9782952638876

A selective guidebook describing 180 multi-pitch routes from 7 areas around the world, covering Calanques, Verdon, Sardinia, Meteora, Wadi Rum, Tsaranoro, Red Rocks, and Zion.

Author(s): Thierry Souchard

일자: 2017

This digital guidebook presents a selection of 26 multi-pitch routes taken from the book Rock around the World. Almost all of the routes presented are trad.  Of course, this style of climbing on trad gear requires us to be modest about route choices, but do not fear, the rock lends itself well to gear placements, especially along its beautiful, long crack systems. Other equally interesting routes, more in a mountaineering style, focus on route-finding rather than pure difficulty. These follow more or less along the lines of the famous Bedouin routes. These ‘extreme adventure treks’ discovered by the locals are the most aesthetic way, and undoubtedly the only true way, to explore the area. Some climbing routes included in this selection use Bedouin routes as descents, and two Bedouin routes that ascend to the summit of Jebel Rum are described in detail. Trad 6a/6b grade is required and a good crack climbing experience Routes are drawn on zoomable photos. The content of the guidebook is detailed in the OmegaRoc app.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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