등정들 뉴질랜드에서 스포츠 클라이밍로서 Alexei Drummond에 의한

Second go mid afternoon. Much better conditions. Did all the moves in a few hangs except for clipping the 6th bolt (which I grabbed instead). If you mantle out right it seems perhaps easier than 26. If you mantle direct to the anchor it seems harder. Up to the last bolt felt 24-25ish, though maybe it would feel harder on the send.

Onsight attempt didn't last long Got to the 5th bolt with one hang and was sweating in full sun, so decided to try again later.

Red point, second tie-in. Such a nice bit of bouldering on a rope! Glad we checked it out. #2ndGo

Flash attempt. Thought I had gotten through the first crux but let my guard down standing up after having done the hard moves and fell. I tried the start again but then hung at the second bolt. Then worked out the moves to the top.

Not the best idea trying to flash this for the warm-up. Fell in the crux around 4th bolt. Then pulled on and went to the top.

Hung at first bolt. Then to top. Quite hard boulder problem for a 23.

Flash attempt. First three moves are fine. Then there are a couple of really hard moves. From first bolt it’s a walk.

Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.

Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.

First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.

Had a second tie-in with second pre-clipped to make trying the boulder a bit more pleasant. Definitely made some progress, but eventually just pulled up to jug and climbed to top to clean since wanted to get David on Dodor before it got too late.

Worked out some beta on the bottom boulder. Seems harder than 25, but maybe this is a V5 with good beta.

Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.

Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.

Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now

(Wet) warm up. Mostly easy except one move at the bulge where the damp footholds put me off smearing and I fell trying to do it a stupid way. Pulled back on and went to the top.

Still can’t link one move to the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. But did the top crux again quite easily and just climbed up onto the ledge to get into the Robin route. Game on.

Top crux suits me really well. I can static to the ledge quite easily. Bottom crux between 1st and 2nd bolt has the hardest move for me.

Red point! 5th go overall. Felt super easy. Was resting better on the jug by keeping in to the wall and only using back three fingers of each hand. Went purposefully to the deadpoint with full focus. Did the final move of crux to right sloper and then crimp easily. Felt so nice to just cruise to the anchors with plenty left in the tank. The best 24 I have climbed in NZ so far.

4th go overall. Going for the deadpoint again, and feeling better than previous time but was inaccurate and didn't latch it properly.

3rd go overall. High point. Went for the left hand dead point above the last bolt. Got it, but my fingers wouldn't crimp properly. Just had one more move to do and the crux was over

Warm up.

Easy #2ndGo. Did the dyno anyway, since it does work and is fun

Flash attempt. One hang after 4th bolt. Really annoyed because I went for the dyno option and knew I was going to fall short on the way up. Felt I could have done it statically to make sure of the flash.

Still had to try really hard to send it second go. I definitely didn't have the best beta, but this seemed hard for the grade compared to other routes at the crag. #2ndGo

Onsight attempt. Dry-fired left hand crimping on a sloper and exploded off the wall between second and third bolt.

Second attempt overall. One hang on the final bolt. Got to the final crux after clipping the last bolt. Didn't have the beans for the last deadpoint to the left hand crimp. Very close! I know all the moves now and just have to get to the top with enough energy do the last crux move

Second warm up

Really nice warm up.

Silly slip on my flash attempt. But I would have probably come off at the last bolt anyway, which seems like the crux. I did all the moves fairly easily and the route seems suited to me. Hopefully I can get another go on this fresh!

Nice little route. Quite off-balance in a couple of places, cool movement.

Warm up

Much easier second time, knowing where to not muck around. #2ndgo

Onsight attempt came up short at the last bolt going over the slopey lip.

A really cool route. But I was way too scared to whip on the crux bolt because it was beyond rusty. I called take and gingerly weighted it before going to the top. Super psyched to get this rebolted so I can give it a second burn!

Super fun version of the crag classic Coller de Hors. Takes in the full crux without the 16 climbing at the top that requires a 75m rope

Fell going for the last crimp of the crux. Too tired to try this hard today

Too tired to finish the crux after attempts on two 23s and a 26

I just climbed up to check the crux of this one. Happy that I clipped the crux bolt off the crimp coming from the ground. Had a look at the rest of the crux moves. Unfortunately my fingers weren't fresh enough to give it a proper go today (Never use the Tindeq progressor the day before outdoor climbing!). I will have to come back for this as the line is mega.

I had to fight for the onsight. Putting the gear in adds a little, but mainly I had to keep my composure just after the bulge. The top half is good and the first four bolts of climbing were more difficult than anticipated.

Did the full length version but partly by mistake as I think I went too far right and linked in to the top of Coller de Hors

Andrew sorted the beta for me on this one as well