등정들 World에서 스포츠 클라이밍로서 Alexei Drummond에 의한

Second go mid afternoon. Much better conditions. Did all the moves in a few hangs except for clipping the 6th bolt (which I grabbed instead). If you mantle out right it seems perhaps easier than 26. If you mantle direct to the anchor it seems harder. Up to the last bolt felt 24-25ish, though maybe it would feel harder on the send.

Onsight attempt didn't last long Got to the 5th bolt with one hang and was sweating in full sun, so decided to try again later.

Red point, second tie-in. Such a nice bit of bouldering on a rope! Glad we checked it out. #2ndGo

Flash attempt. Thought I had gotten through the first crux but let my guard down standing up after having done the hard moves and fell. I tried the start again but then hung at the second bolt. Then worked out the moves to the top.

Not the best idea trying to flash this for the warm-up. Fell in the crux around 4th bolt. Then pulled on and went to the top.

Hung at first bolt. Then to top. Quite hard boulder problem for a 23.

Flash attempt. First three moves are fine. Then there are a couple of really hard moves. From first bolt it’s a walk.

Red point! Not in the best style as the second bolt was pre-clipped, but very satisfying nonetheless. Awesome route. I definitely need to come back and do it with only first pre-clipped as I ended up resting at the second bolt clipping position anyway So fun doing this with Tom on the same day.

Second attempt of the day. Second bolt pre-clipped. One hang at 4th bolt. Fingers numbed out setting up for the move to the ledge.

First attempt of the day. Just had first bolt preclipped but wasn’t recruited and the holds needed brushing.

Had a second tie-in with second pre-clipped to make trying the boulder a bit more pleasant. Definitely made some progress, but eventually just pulled up to jug and climbed to top to clean since wanted to get David on Dodor before it got too late.

Worked out some beta on the bottom boulder. Seems harder than 25, but maybe this is a V5 with good beta.

Sandbagged myself choosing this for a warm up Just pulled through when I couldn't remember how to do the reachy move since we only had a couple of hours before dark.

Second go of day. High point! Fell going for the final move to the Robin ledge. It is the last move before the 27 joins back into the 23. It is also a move I did about 7/9 times in isolation... After practicing the move again a couple of times I went to the top. So only hung at the 4th bolt. At least I have a complete sequence sorted now with no uncertainties left. Just need to stitch it all together.

First go of day. Fell just before 2nd bolt, Fell at 4th. Went to top.

Third go of the day. Took some serious lobs between 1st and 2nd. Decided that I like the backflag technique for clipping 4th. All and all a slightly frustrating session in not great conditions. But still made some progress.

Second go of the day. Decided that the shouldery approach to the start of the first crux is actually more straightforward and predictable. Guess I am still learning the beta.

Persisted with my beta for getting on to the layback in the lower crux, but it seems too powerful and fickle. Did the top crux again quite easily.

Last go of the day. I keep falling low today. But at least I have linked 1st to 2nd three times and finessed the top crux, completing it 3 times in 4 attempts today. So a good session. I think if I can get through the first crux from the ground I will have a good chance. Maybe 1-2 more sessions.

Second go of the day. Again fell low, but linked 1st to 2nd again. Decided to go to the anchors to remind myself about the final section shared with Robin. Not at easy as I would have liked it

First go of the day. Fell early, but then linked the lower crux from ledge to 2nd bolt clipping stance and clipped it. Felt pretty spooky. The top crux is starting to feel pretty dialled, and I found a slightly easier way to get left foot on jug through the middle section. All moves done now

Red point! #2ndGo. Had no expectation of doing this second go. Alex was much more confident. So glad I proved her right. First time I have sent a 5.12b in a session, let alone 2nd go. There was a “7b” in Spain last year, but that was very soft. This felt on grade. Psyched!

Putting the gear up on this monster face climb. Really nice position on a huge face towering over the canyon. Technical thin climbing for 3-4 bolts in the middle. Eases off on some fun moves for the last 5 bolts.

Repeat. Yeah it has two cruxes and they are both droppable, but if you do them it feels easy.

Putting the gear on for Alex. Maybe a little harder than I gave it credit for yesterday as I fell on both cruxes trying to warm up on it today.

Alex got me all the beta Fun moves but probably on the soft end of the grade.

This thing seems hard and condition-dependent. The one to the left suited my style better.

Red point! Still seeping at the last bolt which adds a tricky red point crux. But I knew what I was doing this time so it went very smoothly even though my fingers were starting to numb out a bit at the top. The second draw was pre-clipped as recommended by FA in the guidebook.

Warming up the fingers in the shade. Cold rock!

Nice route

Third go. Got to the last holds before the jug at the anchor. The left sloper had gotten wet from the seepage again (the climb was wet at the top today making it a bit tricky to finish). Got stuck with a high right foot and wet slopers for holds and couldn't reverse back in order to change course. Fell at the last hold again. Then got rained off. Oh well.

Second go. Fell on the very last move to the jug for clipping the anchors. What a fool.

Putting the gear up. Moves seem good for me.

Warm up

Warm up. Nice crimps for the first 3 bolts.

This would be a hard onsight. The crux at the last bolt is tricky and it is hard to put the draw in first so the head game also comes into play with a ledge below.

(Wet) warm up. Mostly easy except one move at the bulge where the damp footholds put me off smearing and I fell trying to do it a stupid way. Pulled back on and went to the top.

Still can’t link one move to the clipping hold for 2nd bolt. But did the top crux again quite easily and just climbed up onto the ledge to get into the Robin route. Game on.

Top crux suits me really well. I can static to the ledge quite easily. Bottom crux between 1st and 2nd bolt has the hardest move for me.

Easy #2ndGo with better beta for the face moves exiting crux

Onsight attempt. Happy to have reached the clipping hold above the break for 5th bolt. I was just too square on going through the final two moves of crux.

So freaking good Hard bouldery start into technical climbing between breaks with a very delicate crux high up.

Hollow flakes. Passing time. First route on the trip that I wouldn’t recommend.

Full red point! Putting the gear up and sent it first thing I guess six days on is the way

Third attempt. Fell going for the clipping hold for the anchor. Pumped out of my mind. Cool route! I don't know if it is because this is the fifth day on, or because I am just not fit enough. The moves are all easy.

Second attempt. Fell going for the clipping hold for the anchor. Pumped out of my mind.

Flash attempt. Pumped off between 5th and 6th bolt.

Warm up.

Been a long time since I tried this hard. Very cool route with a fun overhanging intro that is chill if you know the beta and can handle frogging on your feet to rock over. The real climb is the slabby headwall which is thin and very technical with a deep mono at one point and potential for heartbreak right at the top. I was close to coming off a few times. Memorable.