등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 질 | 등반가 | |||
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토요일 10번째 6월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 14m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the traverse right.
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23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 14m, 2 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
On top rope. Got up to the roof. Missed the undercling and gave up.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - 누구와 John Pitcairn, steve | 14m, 1 | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Happy to top out. With running beta from John and lots of rests. Good climb with lots of different moves in it.One worth working on.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
top more tenuous than last time
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 14m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Several rests.
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23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 14m, 2 | |||||
Yup its good. Less complex than bad behaviour, nice balancy moves up to the groove then good bridging until you can step across above the wee undercling roof.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Smooth, really varied, fun.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
On to bad behaviour anchor, a tad vegetated up there.
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월요일 5번째 6월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 14m, 1 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Got maybe 2m. Other climbs I should work on before this one.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 15m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Oh dear, Major problems. I need to learn this again.
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17 | ★ Silver Airman - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
With traverse to Gothic Groove anchor.
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19 | ★★ Samarcand - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 9m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 14m, 1 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Top rope. Mostly figured out the bottom, had a good go at the top but ran out of steam after the bolt and lowered.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
17 | ★ Silver Airman - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
With scary traverse and downclimb to Gothic Groove anchor. Ok for the leader, really nasty potential consequences for second.
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19 | ★★ Samarcand - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 9m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
일요일 28번째 5월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Koruba | 14m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Leading something to prevent vague sense of slacking.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Good lead Grant. Yellow HB cam has perfect size and reach for a high piece from the initial ledge.
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18 | ★★ Deffust - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 10m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Gerald led. Think we need to paint large white Xs on a couple of blocks below the ring bolt.
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17 | ★ Graveyard Groove - 누구와 Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Some kind of weird back/hip injury making today troublesome.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
19 | ★★ Koruba - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 14m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
17 | ★ Graveyard Groove - 누구와 Gerald | 14m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
18 | ★★ Deffust - 누구와 Gerald | 10m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
일요일 21번째 5월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | |||||
17 | ★ Graveyard Groove | 14m | |||||
18 | ★★ Deffust - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 10m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
Had to down climb and rest on the first nut. Oh dear. Tired post Arapiles?
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21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 12m, 4 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
With coaching from John. Actually really pleased to get up this. Have tried a few times before and failed. Good climb. Quite a project for me to confident on this.
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18 | ★★ Soliloquy - 누구와 Grant Johnston, John Pitcairn | 16m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 16m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Tired, poor footwork, oozed off the greasy top ledgy hold, slumped onto a Z3.
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Failed and lowered from the crux on top rope. Grant put me to shame by scampering through easily.
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21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 12m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Made up a double short/long draw for the second bolt. Got a bit pumped up the arete.
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18 | ★★ Soliloquy - 누구와 Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
There are a couple of blocks below the ringbolt now starting to move a bit.
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일요일 14번째 5월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 14m, 2 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - 누구와 Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Dug it out again
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21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
월요일 17번째 4월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Nutcracker - 누구와 Andy Baird | 14m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
21 | ★★ Green Groove - 누구와 Andy Baird | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Andy Baird | 11m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
24 | ★★ Spanish Moon - 누구와 Andy Baird | 11m | |||||
19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | |||||
토요일 8번째 4월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay - 누구와 shichang | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
The usual dirt.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove - 누구와 Grant Johnston | 11m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Sat on a brass offset at the crux several times remembering what to do. Suck it up, mostly.
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17 | ★ Graveyard Groove - 누구와 Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Nuts only
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목요일 30번째 3월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
The #3 zero is pretty handy before the top moves. Fun.
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21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Shagged round getting a big nut in after the jam, just place the red cam.
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17 | ★ Silver Airman - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Didnt take enough draws. Can be top roped on a 30m rope.
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토요일 25번째 3월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara - 누구와 Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 14m, 2 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
19 | ★ Orangutang - 누구와 Angela Hewlett, Grant Johnston | 12m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Surprisingly well controlled.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch - 누구와 Grant Johnston, Angela Hewlett | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Tired after moving house yet again.
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수요일 15번째 3월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Momrath | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
With right finish to Load It anchor and a wee play on that while lowering.
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19 | ★★ Samarcand - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 9m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Spanked. A couple of sits on the cam in the first slot.
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금요일 3번째 3월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Koruba - 누구와 colin | 14m, 3 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
수요일 제 1 3월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
17 | ★ Graveyard Groove - 누구와 dave | 14m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
First lead in 3 months following broken foot.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
21 | ★ Badfinger | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
No Sharon it is not 17. On others' gear to crux then on through the weeds and grub. Still like it.
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19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Turns out a 29.8m rope does not reach the ground to rap off. You'll get there on rope stretch, but you won't be doing any top roping ;-)
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목요일 23번째 2월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
24 | ★ Sheerlux | 14m | |||||
Dangle and thrash at crux on top rope. Knackered, gave up.
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18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Hot rock. Warmup. Tired. Nearly forgot to place the cam. Meh.
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토요일 11번째 2월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ The Grip Goes On | 14m, 1 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not quite to the first low jug. Getting hot and greasy. Feh.
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22 | ★★ Gothic Groove - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 15m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
A bit nervy through the crux.
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22 | ★★ Banshee | 14m | ★★★ 클래식 | ||||
None of the usual problems. Continued to Kaloo Kalay anchor.
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21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
수요일 8번째 2월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★★ Snatchbender Direct | 14m, 2 | |||||
How have we missed this? It's great. Close to nailing it first attempt but bollocksed up the move across to the top block. Fun.
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24 | ★ Chasing After Charlie | 14m, 4 | |||||
A bit of hanging around through the crux but somewhat better than usual.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Stripped the gear and gave it a shot after a rest. About time too. Pretty happy.
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23 | ★★ Bad Behaviour | 14m, 1 | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Testing placements. Arsed off at the low crux.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Just me and Terry. With traverse to Bad Behaviour anchor
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수요일 제 1 2월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
23 | ★ Sneakeasy | 11m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Had to work out the top again. Ant did it better. Guess my strength is returning.
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21 | ★★ Green Groove | 11m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
22 | ★ Biggles Sucks A Kumara | 14m, 2 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
19 | ★★ Koruba - 누구와 Angela Hewlett | 14m, 3 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Mildly dicey.
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수요일 25번째 1월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West - 누구와 Andy Baird | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Bit drizzly. Then it got worse. Oh well.
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18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
21 | ★★ Biggles Flies West - 누구와 John Pitcairn | 14m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
수요일 18번째 1월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Chalk everywhere through the shattered loose stuff on the right before the top, including all over the potential belayer-killer. Have now removed that and small surrounding debris.
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19 | ★★ Momrath | 14m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Not quite over the cold. Knackering.
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화요일 17번째 1월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
26 | Boys On Bikes | 14m | |||||
목요일 12번째 1월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
26 | Desolation Angel Direct Finish | 11m, 1 | |||||
26? Felt super easy
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화요일 3번째 1월 2017 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
26 | ★★ Perennial Pipedreams | 14m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Trad
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수요일 21번째 12월 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
22 | ★ Barracuda | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Top rope, placing gear. Bloody glad I didn't just get on lead. The gear is tiny, fiddly and totally in the way. I'll want a couple of grades leeway before attempting it I think. I wonder if those who downgraded it from 24 to 22 actually led it placing gear?
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18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Top rope for Barracuda
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21 | ★★ Principles Of Lust | 12m, 4 | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Angela's move to the second bolt is ace!
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Bicycled through the crux with heckling from below.
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19 | ★★ Kaloo Kalay | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Digging the crack out again, am I the only one ever leads this?
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19 | ★ Orangutang - 누구와 Alastair McDowell | 12m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Warmup? Argh.
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19 | ★★ Bandersnatch | 11m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Sustained and thin!
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19 | ★ Orangutang | 12m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Hard start always gets me then easy to top
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18 | ★★ Soliloquy | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Excellent finger crack
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19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
More bridging this time
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19 | ★★ Samarcand | 9m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Still a good route
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18 | ★★ Deffust | 10m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Last of the day using some different beta and nuts to protect the start instead of cams, bomber
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17 | ★ Silver Airman | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Using the straight up face start this time
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22 | ★ Fuck-Knuckle | 16m | ★ 좋음 | ||||
Good gear though quite run out at top without enough small nuts. Used the arete on left up past the nasty knuckle jam
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일요일 18번째 12월 2016 - Mt. Eden Quarry | |||||||
Long Side | |||||||
19 | ★★ Momrath | 14m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Quite tricky with enough gear but still a mental lead
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17 | ★ Silver Airman | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
Used the right hand entrance for the lead. Good small wire protection
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17 | ★ Silver Airman | 16m | ★★ 아주좋음 | ||||
The groove start is also good
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