등정들 Short Side에서

I think this is immediately right of the Satellite Spies buttress. Did the left tips crack only variant, 17 seems about right for that.

If this is the buttress, which would make sense given the R rating (no gear), then it is perhaps a tad soft for 16.

After grunting the scrum machine out of the way. Bloody rugby heads.

Twice, second time just using the left arete only. Quite fun.

Jammed the offwidth, exit via Jacaranda at the top.

Everything from here rightward very damp, mossy and seeping.

New field lights are great.

Emergency practice. Ground anchor now almost subterranean. Took a couple of deliberate falls to test things. A bit hard to undo clove hitches after.

Gear only, without pre-attached draws, which makes the top piece rather more strenuous to place then clip. Bloody great.

Not keen on the lead today. Extracted Phil's stuck cam on the way down.

Warmup and a bit of fist jam practice.

Shaping up as a bit of a favourite. Don't wimp out at the top.

Had to have a rest!

Nope.

Stepped in from the left ledge as per original guide. Direct is a bit harder.

Couldn't stick the dyno to the match.

A greenpoint of sorts, eliminating the old pitons. Good #3 rock below first piton, #2 ball nut above it, crux moves, then very good #1 rock and optional small brass offset left of second piton. You could skip the ball nut and still be OK I think.

And across to Green Machine rings.

Up and down

Very close to Mr Ackery on Dong. Good nut over the top before pulling over.

Last move could be good if there weren't remnants of an old dead bush in your face.

Dirty holds at top again, makes it a bit scary and pumpy for 17.

Once you work out the crux it's not such a sandbag. Turns out there are 2 decent nuts left of the top piton, one good nut below and a possibly adequate ballnut above the first, sooo...

Led on preplaced nuts and ball nut, skipping pitons. Back for a greenpoint next time ha.

The usual fail

Finger crack with fairly poor feet

One hex, one nut, one move.

Lots of jams, only one hex

Ignore the crimps, getting into the grade 22 crux start position is not too tricky. Failed to stick the dyno in 3 attempts.

On hexes and nuts with the odd sneaky jam, straight up the crack.

Forgot the right cam, forgot draws, ahem.

To clean Triblet anchor. Final moves to that are awkward at about 16.

Tricky crux. Total sandbag, more like 21? Pegs seem still ok ish, somebody led it after.

Over to Green Machine rings.