East Face 암벽등반 11 루트들 에서의 절벽

Walk up the grand coloir until you reach the Petit Couloir. The climb starts close to the end of the little band of scree which goes into the start of the Petit Couloir, before it gets steep.

1. 50m (13) Start under the small rooflet and head up the crack until you reach easier ground where you can set a belay

2. 55m (9) Up crack, move right up the steeper terrain and then back left to a belay

3. 60m (10) The best pitch! Move up the steep rock onto series of small steep ledges.

Climb starts around here but the marker might be slightly off.

150m left of the Db Eh? Buttress. Start up a steep move, over some loose flakes, and then up left to follow slabs for 60 or so metres, until crux pitch is encountered.

This was the first multi pitch rock climb done on the Remarkables and since the first ascent has been misrepresented in the subsequent guidebooks. Firstly the route is named as per the rights of the first ascencionists as Maori Alphabet and not DB Eh? , that is the punchline! Secondly, from the descriptions other climbers have given me as to where they climbed, maybe if I was asked I could draw a topo of it to set things straight.

1. 50m (14) Start up the consolidated slaps. Belay at chains

2. 50m (12) Up slabs to the right of the chains and then easily up low angle slabs to belay.

3. 55m (15) Up slabs, traverse left under roof and up small chimney. Belay under rooflet

4. 45m (16/17) Pull through one 17ish move over the roof and then easily up slabs to belay in corner.

5. 55m (10) Up past ledge with cairn (this is where the abseil anchor is) till you run out of rope.

6. scramble

7. scramble

Descent Notes:

There are a few different ways down, depending on how you're feeling.

1. Finish off the Grand Traverse and come down the couloir of Single Cone. Pretty good value but doesn't go past the bottom of the route, if you left your bags there.

2. Do a bit of the Grand Traverse, but go down the Grand Couloir which will take you back to the bottom of the route. The scree is pretty loose.

3. Either finish the climb at the pitch five abseil (50m) or scramble back down to it from the summit. After the abeil make your way back to the cliff top above Alta Slabs. Keep to the right (looking towards Lake Alta) and there are a number of chains you can rap off. You can even scramble back to the top of pitch one and rap right back to where you started.