등정들 Wharepapa South에서

First lead after cleaning it almost two years ago. I took several kgs of big cams remembering it to be much wider than it is. An absolutely stellar second pitch!

Now completely clean with a repositioned belay almost done and another bolt above the first taking away the ground fall potential. A brilliant technical stemming route.

A brilliant route. Did it first time nearly 20 years ago. Great to repeat it again.

Fantastic route, a little above my pay grade. Gave it a clean on the way down- it's ready to go, get on it!

Difficult, technical climbing throughout. Spectacular moves stemming in the corner. An absolute must climb for the grade. #2ndGo

Cool style. Dependent on body tension and balance esp if short. Tenuous.

Fantastic route. After easter weekend there had been at least 6 people up and down it, and we gave it a good clean, jump on it!

very mossy...

Technical stemming throughout and a couple of difficult mantles. Mega hard.

Short but really fun!

Repeat.

Not clean, but I did all the moves and didn't hang around. Lots of balancy/smeary moves and things that you think won't hold that do, and things that you think will that won't. Good warm up, do it next time before Industrial Action.

Short but fun. Lost faith in the smear. Will have to repeat.

Repeat

Really struggled. Cool route though.

Route was pretty dirty but we gave it a good clean- get on it!

Can pretty much do all the moves free, I think. Still feels like this one is a long way out for me. So many difficult moves!

Working out the beta.

All free with 2 hangs. Feels like it could go. Much harder than the 24s at Main Wall. Humbled by Lakeside once again.

3 attempts today. All free with one fall at the roof. Would be a 25 at most crags.

9 attempts over 4 sessions. Still had to fight for the send. Proudest ascent of this past year. Invested a lot of time and effort into this one, stoked to get it just before going away. 24 is a ludicrous proposition for this beast of a route.

Bring a cam or 2 to protect the long runout between 2nd & 3rd bolts. Risk of ground fall otherwise. Clear crux on the face below roof, around 5th and 6th bolts. Awesome route.

1st pitch: Bring a full single rack of cams from #0.5 up. Tricky offwidth around midway. 2nd pitch: V3ish boulder problem at the first anchor. A few easier, technical moves follow.

Greasy and punishing if you can't finger jam (me). Good technical test piece though. Glad to have the excuse to exit stage left to the anchors of cafe hands - top half is mossy and needs a good scrub.

Burlfest. Tricky sub-kneejam-size offwidth

Sent after a bit more TR practice trying hand stacks and all that. I fistjammed until I could reach the ledge on the left, and escaped the offwidth section. Take single camalots #3-5

Faces getting a bit slimy either side after rain but the crack interior is clean, brushed a few face footholds. Made it to the ledge after a sit on a #4, realised I needed more #3s for the top, couldn't fidget a decent hex in, backed off and retreated from the Cafe Hands anchor. Seems pretty good, will return with more gear.

A minor epic, tunnelling under fallen vegetation (now cleared) and a bit of a runout without a #5.

Take singles to camalot #5 with three #3s

Eric attempted ascent, all filled with moss/slime and wet as. We retreated, the snake crack looks amazing, but also mossy. We'll come back in summer, probably with a broom or similar cleaning item.

It was very wet and greasy, so Justin got on it first, and fell onto the first cam/the ground. Then I did some aiding to reach the upper corner, which was drier, but the sidewalls were unusable, I was short a #3 again so I got Justin to finish it. Then sent it on TR

Flashed most of it, then wimped out on the last 2m as the crack was an unpleasant loose fist/foot. Little did I know it was only one or two moves. Would recommend having 3x #3s and a #5. Possible to also swap one #3 for an eq hex size for the upper section.

Great fun! Original description was accurate: "if you can't jam you're destined to stay on the ground".