접속점들 Waikato에서

Branches off right halfway up 'Gambatagwa'

Couple metres obove where 'Gollum' branches off 'Gambatagwa' this climb branches off right.

Easy top rope climbing - ideal for beginners. 25m. One can wander at will over the wall, but the following four climbs are recognized as being the most popular.

A great multi-pitch training climb. On the far left of the Shield.

Left side of the Shield Slab

Shallow groove right of Route 1

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

Climb up to small cave then move left and up. 10m right of the last climbs, could do with a clean.

Wall right of the cave route (route 3)

The rib directly behind 'The Shield' wall P1: Ascend the rib to the pine tree. P2: From the tree climb the rib right to bushier but easier ground. Descend the gully on the left. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The steep wall over-looking the gully between the Shield and Prelude provides a most delightful moderate route, Find the single jug at the foot of the wall and follow good holds to the top, finishing near the top of Back of Beyond. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

The rib at the top of the gully between the Shield and Prelude. It is difficult to arrange a good belay at the top. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Heads up the red wall left of the arete of 'Prelude'.

From the bottom of 'Shade of things to come', follow the easy ledge out right to a shallow corner. Climb to the big ledge and gain the arete on the right. Climb the arete on good gear to the belay ledge. The second pitch needs to be cleaned...but if you are keen, from the belay climb to the large ledge above, to a groove out left and up this to the top of the buttress.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

P1: Climb the rib from the bottom, until a small belay ledge on the right is reached. P2: Step left and climb steep wall to good ledges (10m). Either abseil or continue up through bush to the track above. This description is old and needs updating.

A low-level traverse from Sentinel to the bridge. May need to be rediscovered, cleaned and graded. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Buttress may need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Buttress may need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

You can park your car at the carpark next to where the Waitewheta river joins into the Ohinemuri. This is just off Highway 2, 10km from Paeroa when you are driving towards Waihi. Either bushbash up the true left of the Ohinemuri for 1km until you see the cliff or walk along the road towards Waihi for a kilometer and climb down the side of the cycle-path tunnel (grade 10? ;D).

Start just below the rib on the left of the cliff. You will see a rusty piton right above you. Follow the line of least resistance which will lead you left into a small belay cave with a couple bolts. From there it is straight up to the top. Initially climbed as two pithes but cam be climbed as one without much rope drag.

Beta warning: Bring runners to sling large holes in the rock, other protection is sparse and mainly consists of wires. Rap down using the large pine at the top. Note this tree may no longer exist and have fallen down.

Pitch 1, 20m: As for the standard route to the cave. Pitch 2, 40m: Instead of leaving the cave on the left as for the standard route, exit right. Traverse into a shallow groove and climb this for 5m, Traverse right across a slabby bulge (tree runner), ascend the bulge and the short groove above. At the top of the groove pull out left onto good ledges. This should be the belay ledge for the standard route. May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

May need to be rediscovered and cleaned. This description needs updating.

Small holds up to the large pine tree protected by hangerless bolts.

Spread around K Gorge are plenty of nice boulders. Landings vary; take plenty of pads.

A delightful steep slab. Take a few pads to even out the landing.

Follow the crimp seam to top out left

Directly up from the left pocket

Directly up from the right pocket

Left-hand side of the crystal face

Right-hand side of the crystal face

Head from the car park upstream on the true left toward the Black Wall until you reach the cutting. The rock may still be a bit friable.

Left to right traverse, staying very low. Avoids the ledgy rock on the RH side. A bit friable still.

Bask in the magnificent views from the top of a route!

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

unknown route origin, stainless bolts and hangers lead to chain anchor. rock quality is some of the worst you could climb on.

unknown origin, start on the face then veer right around the arete. stainless hangers and bolts lead to a chain anchor. some of the worst quality rock you could climb on.

Unknown origin (possibly mixed trad) Starts at the bottom of the twister buttress. There is a crumbly start with a round pocket on the face. 2 bolts (stainless hangers and galv bolts) after this the bolts seem to disappear before an anchor at about 15m height. The route then continues or bypasses the anchor on the left all the way to the top on stainless bolts and hangers. climb this at your own risk as the rock quality in this area is extremely fragile and crumbly

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

The second pitch at the hanging belay in the middle of this wall. Climb to the right underneath the overhang to the crux above the second bolt and then cruise cruise to the top of the honeycomb head wall. Descent is best in two abseils

Climb the groove and keep on going through the widening crack and chimney to reach the steep headwall and chain. Long and airy with a good balance of moves. DBC Belay

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.

After clipping the 8th bolt of 400Ft, traverse left 3m and then up another 10m past 3 more rusty old bolts to another set of anchors. Set up a trad anchor (if you don't trust the bolts) and climb right out onto the impressive prow and up 10m to the top of the wall. Midsized cams and nuts. Gets stars for the exposure, setting and full height excitement, not for the faint hearted. Currently no anchors on the top pitch, downclimbing back to the anchors is the go. Top pitch FFA Zane Bray

A route with some contentious creation questions. Is considerably harder now that one of the key crimps by the start has broken and the bolted on starting foothold has been removed.

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

Owned by DOC and haven't had any problems so far, but don't give them a reason to restrict the area. Please take all rubbish and anything you take with you; only leave your footprints behind.

Climb to the left of falcor up the slab and into the tallest part of the cave. still needs more cleaning and more bolts

An outrageous line that traverses from inside the cave through steep climbing and out at the far right lip of the overhang. Does anyone know who the original equipper was? Holds through the final section look manufactured. This one was re-bolted in 2020 but hasn't seen an FA yet as far as anyone knows

Start at the base of the slab left of the runnel, mantel onto the slab then attack the overhang. Good holds lead to a powerful finish.

Cleaning beta: start lowering and grab the last quickdraw, climb back up, and flick the rope over to right before cleaning the remaining gear.

The runnel next to falcor... Probably only dry for 3 months during the Summer but will be a classic!!!!

Start to the right of the runnel, a few tricky slab moves lead to a rooflet, pull through the roof then the climbing eases off the closer you get to the anchors.

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey"

Left of No Fly Zone. Climb the face then into the corner via the flakes or transfer over to the adjacent boulder at the jug. Stem your way to the roof then power through and enjoy the top, this climb has everything!!!

Excellent climbing up the face following the positive edges heading diagonally right to an entertaining 19 Crimpy climb as it goes straight up again. From the anchors you can join the grade 16 for 10m of fun climbing (4 bolts) for a full height adventure. Note; if heading to the top the abseil is 38m to the ground, or rap to the top of no fly zone for a 25m rap.

Start up Coller De Hors then at the 3rd bolt head left through the overhang then head directly up past 4 more bolts to join the top of no fly zone.

A linkup taking in the crux of Coller De Hors before traversing to clip the last bolt and anchors of No Fly Zone. Great option if you only have a 60m rope.

Brilliant fun climbing, mainly a reasonable 19 until the overhang then a few bigger pulls through some jugs to some smaller holds with some great moves. An easy tick for the grade, or super hard if you get the moves wrong. The abseil is 38m, a 70m rope might get you down on stretch, or abseil left to the anchors on No Fly Zone

Start to the right of Coller de Hors. This climb is sustained but well protected. The crux involves pulling over the overhang and getting established on the steep wall above. Steep climb on good rock.

Starts right of Feariswheel, Climbs the arete and attacks the slight over hang, consistent climbing. Climb to the ledge below "Edging and Dilios" the anchors are on the face.

Cleaned and bolted, climb the face as per "another one rides the bus" then step into the corner, 5 more bolts then mantel out to the left and clip the chains above.

Climb the left line of bolts from the ledge on in-cut crimps and edges

From the ledge climb the right line of bolts on crimps, edges and a few jugs... Enjoy the view!!!!

An intimidating line that gets harder the higher you climb, with its crux headwall and bold finish. A bit of everything in terms of climbing, slabs, cracks, faces and a overhang. Rock a bit soft at the start.

Climb the arete to the right of "Climb This You Bastard" some pretty funky moves with 2 distinct cruxes. Still needs anchors.

The pronounced streak on the last buttress of this sector. This climb has two cruxes, one high and one low. The higher you get the steeper it is and the rests quickly disappear. The second bolt is tricky to clip due to the nature of the rock but good side pulls are there if you can find them

Far right hand end of the lower tier is an area that had an old route bolted from the bottom to the top tier... This sector has no details from previous developers.

Start from the ledge and traverse right up to a ledge. old bolts have been removed/knocked in. Re bolted but some of the holds at the start look suspiciously formed 🤔

Down to the right of "Axis" is a direct version, still needs a start bolt and an ascent but looks like it will be far better climbing than the traverse.

Climb the right hand face from the ledge. Some suspect holds up there if you spot them, this is the original line, re bolted and some fantastic views. At the anchors if you want to get to the top tier, climb past and keep going... More anchors then a single bolt to top out the route... belay your buddy up from the bolts on the boulder over to the right.

The left line from the main ledge, keep to the right or left if you want a harder outing. as with "old school epics" you can climb past the anchors and mantel the top to get to the top tier.

Climb the corner then break out left through the over hang, beware of the calf pump and save some juice for the top!!!!

The line to the far left, climb the over hanging face. Needs bolts, has anchors (shares with corner line)

Climb the left overhanging face (after the overhang you can get onto the ledge for the other lines) or keep going up through a tricky crux.

Climb the right hand face from the chain. 30m of climbing with a few cruxes, step left at the top of the line to the anchors shared with "Shin-dig" Don't forget to enjoy the view!!!

The right hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

The left hand line from the ledge, still needs work and a chain for the ledge.

30-35m high basalt with potential for technical style and steep routes

Climb the face

Head up through vertical into steep climbing on a variety of jugs, pinches, crimps and pockets to 2/3 height then crimp your way to glory.

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Thats right, 80 bolts!

Just to the left of Johns Plaque, head up the left side of the bolts through overhanging jugs, once past the overhang veer right. *Anchors to be added.

Climb the line left of equanimity through 3 distinct horns. Climbing to the roof is around 22/23 then a bouldery finish through the final horn. This one is long and through steep sections so extend draws that are after the steep sections to eliminate rope drag or prepare for a bicep workout.

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.