접속점 |
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Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto Upper Tier |
closed project 5
Climb the land before crime, at the roof head left to the alternative anchors through a bouldery move |
24
★★ The Land Before Crime
Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from. |
26/27
★★ The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023
Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun" |
22
★ Taste The Rainbow
Start left of the corner, traverse in from right to left, best to pre clip at least 1st. climb the face through a series of mantels then slight overhang before the anchors in the rooflet. For full value keep going after the anchors!!! |
19/20
★ Following The Sun
Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors) |
27
★★ The Creature Within
Climb the scooped out corner then head through the bouldery moves in the overhang. |
27
★★★ El Bon Wombat
Climb the steepness on small holds through funky moves, keep to the overhanging arete heading left through the overhang to pull through the roof (crux). After the overhanging terrain, weave through the top section with some air between the bolts to a double ring bolt anchor. |
20 - 22
★ Hedge Fund
Bridge out then onto the short face, odd climbing but fun. |
23
★★ Cronos
Head up an overhanging boulder problem into crimps on the face then either take the right hand side of the slab up the slopey arete. *Still needs Anchors. |
Coromandel Peninsula |
폐쇄 Motutere
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Kookmeyers
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Kookmeyers |
Open Project
Short 10M face with 3 bolts, but not lots of holds |
18
★★ Nice Touch Wilbur
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
19
★★ Wilbur's Cousin
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
24
★★★ Wind Dancer
Has a second pitch which is a closed project. |
21
★ Left Foot Dancer
Starts from end of first pitch of 'Wind Dancer'. Veers left at second roof. Requires a 60m abseil. |
18
★ Top Pitch
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
24
★★★ Te Punga
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
21
★★ Sleeping Boy Catches No Fish
Some really nice slab climbing. Amazing spot |
18
★★★ The Links Effect
Pitch Number:
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22
★★ Fee-Fi-Fo-Fum
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Budda Wall
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Budda Wall |
17
★★★ Ganesh
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
22
★★ Reclining Budda
Description by pitches:
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21
★★ Slinky Malinky
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Lost Buda Wall
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Lost Buda Wall |
17
★★ Horizon
A exciting 30m traverse. Crux is at the start and end of the route. |
15
★★ Hailstone
Fun climb up the arete. P1: 10 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 8 bolts |
16
★★ Veggie Delight
4 pitch route, off the belay ledge right of Hailstone. P1 & P2 can be run togeather. |
16
★ Off the Edge
Pitch 1 (16) 45m . From the belay clip the bolt then climb to ledge above. Clip the 2nd bolt then climb the 1st over hang. Climb arête above on trad till you reach the 2nd overhang. 2 bolts get you through this onto the long sweeping arête. Climb this on trad till you meet the lines of Fe Fi Fo Fum and Sleeping Boys. Climb arête on 3 bolts to the top pitch and the belay of Sleeping Boys. 6 Bolts + Trad. Pitch 2 (15) 25m. Climb the top pitch of Sleeping Boys. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Quiet Earth Wall
The highest of the bolted walls at Castle Rock, spectacular long lines, over 100 metres over the bush. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Quiet Earth Wall |
21
★★★ Archibald Baxter
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
23
★★★ Quiet Earth
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
23
★★★ Alphabetic Disorder
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
23
★ The Naughty Climb
May have been renamed "Alphabetic Disorder" |
20
★★ 50 Shades of Clif Bar
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
20
★★★ ANZAC Parade
Description by pitches:
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26
★★ Ins and Outs
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
18
★★ 2-Stroke Tantrum
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
21
★★★ Heavy Haulage
Starts at a “half height” ledge system accessed via climbing the 1st 2 pitchs of 2-Stroke Tantrum, or by abseiling into them. |
23 A1
★★★ Eurus (East Wind)
Abseil off the first belay point south of the summit (between two diving board shaped rocks), you head to the right (round the obvious ledge below). The start of the 1st completed pitch starts 60 metres down.
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20
★★ The Trad Marathon
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 The Red Wall
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere The Red Wall |
24
★★ Ride the dragon
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
22
★★★ Storm the Castle
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Curtain Wall
Found between Kookmeyer and Western Wall. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Curtain Wall |
18
Giants, Wizards and Elves
Open book corner |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere |
폐쇄 Western Wall
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
Coromandel Peninsula 폐쇄 Motutere Western Wall |
20
Wet Dreams
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
21
★★ Epic
CLOSED. There is a Rahui (prohibition) on climbing until further notice. Please respect this and DO NOT CLIMB. |
18
Open Wide
1st pitch sport with 5 bolts to DBB |
Coromandel Peninsula |
Tairua Crag
North Island's new destination adventure crag. Tramp 2 hours up a beautiful stream and valley to reach a massive rhyolite cliff that is part of a caldera volcano from 9 million years ago. |
Coromandel Peninsula Tairua Crag |
23
★★ Bad Debts and Belay B**ches
Right-most bolted line of the main wall, under a huge white roof system. Technical climbing with a steep start. Easiest to clean by top-belaying a second. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line. |
24
★★ Daylight Dilemma
Descent: Rap the line |
Open Project
Open project - probably 30/31 in grade. The bolted route on the impressive overhanging arête. |
22
★ Not Here to F*** Spiders
A moderately technical first crux leads to a narrow bombay chimney. Jam a #4 or #5 camalot over your head and then squeeze, wiggle,grind and grunt your way through an overhanging off-width to a well-deserved rest. Make sure you keep a few medium cams for the top section and mind your rope doesn't get stuck in a groove as you descend. Trad: Double rack to #3 plus a #4 or #5. |
19
★★ Are We Tramping Yet?
Start up the slabs broken by 2 small overhangs (cruxes). Then up the short headwall to a chain belay on Lover's ledge. This was the first route at Tairua and was climbed ground up on the first reccie to the crag. It has since been bolted in order to create a friendly access route. |
22
★★★ As-salamu Alaykum
“Peace be upon you”. Cliff: I re-named this climb following the Christchurch Terrorist attack. It is probably the best climb I have helped put up and is in a very peaceful and beautiful part of NZ, a fitting tribute to all those Kiwis and visitors that lost their lives. As with all climbing at Tairua, this route is the combination of many climbers' efforts, thanks to you all, we are one, Kia Kaha.
Descent: Abseil back down the route. Clip the chain on the top bolt on the 5th pitch and abseil off the left-hand side of the 3rd pitch ledge. You will also need two ropes to abseil off the Living Room ledge. Alternatively abseil down the line of Daylight Dilemma. |
Lover's Ledge
To access climb Are We Tramping Yet, Not Here To F*** Spiders, Classic 22 or Jam. |
22
★★ Dirty Hairy Frenchmen
2nd tier. Starts from the anchors at the top of Not here to F*** Spiders (far right side of Lover's Ledge). Rad moves out right lead to a stiff crux sequence into a cave. Top out on the enormous Living Room Ledge. 7 Bolts. NOTE: Falling off the crux of this route can leave you hanging in space. Make sure you know how to ascend a rope! Descent: Either rap back down route (difficult), or climb up onto the Alien Head and rap off the Space Ape anchor back to Lover's Ledge. Alternatively it is a 50m rap to the ground from the Living Room Ledge. |
25
Farcical Aquatic Ceremony
You will need a very special set of skills for this route. Suitable for caver/crack climber hybrids that like running it out on gear. This is a roof crack that is usually running with water but occasionally dries out in summer. Extreme quantities of dirt add to the experience. If it is ever cleaned it might lose a grade or two. Enjoy! |
26/27
Boulderer's Day Off
Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape. |
24
★★★ Space Ape
Absolutely wild! Start at the same bolt as Coitus Interruptus but then trend right up the delicate slab before traversing right over ledges to the steeply overhung alien feature. Take a deep breath before launching up the inside of this outrageous feature. Clip the green thread before you mantle out. DBC belay. Note: There is an anchor on the ledge in the middle of the route, this is the top of Boulderer's Day Off. You can stop here to split the route into 2 pitches. |
25
★★ Feral Bush Lawyer
The pitch starting from the alien head. Great climbing on perfect rock. Climb Space Ape or Dirty Hairy Frenchmen to access. |
26
★★★ Coitus Interruptus
This is the Tairua classic! Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges. Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18. Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor. Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge. Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline. Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017 Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020 |
Back On The Ground |
25
Classic 22
Up the steep bolted line starting a few metres to the right of Jam. Staunch climbing with a sting in the tail. |
22
Jam
Cranky moves off the deck to a couple of okay placements, then straight up the steep groove (crux). It really helps if you know how to jam! Stay right after the ledge and cruise up the wide crack toward the belay on the right. Rack: Double rack of cams to #3, one #4 and #5. |
23
★★ Kapowai Calling
Rack: Wires and double camalots to #3 and a #4. |
18
★★ Home is Calling
Easier finish to Home Again. Traverse up and right before Home Again's final steep section to the first pitch's anchor of Kapowai Calling. |
21
★★ Home Again
Starts on the block just left of Kapowai Calling, on the edge of the large gully that splits the face. Nice grade 17/18 moves up to the crux up the small crack at the top. Generously bolted to make for a comfortable lead. 11 bolts. |
23
Chockaholic
Start as for Home Again, before splitting off at half height following crack trending up and left. At the chocked block bust out left to flake feature before moving up to another chock (novel #4 camalot placement here). Sustained climbing follows with just enough gear to keep you going before joining Kapowai Calling at the bolt at the end of its second pitch. Rack: wires, full set of cams to #4, doubles #0.3-1. Save the #0.75s to place after each chock. Note: FA was on trad before Home Again was bolted. |
23
★★ Walking the Plank
The best route at Tairua? Follows a giant crack/chimney up the left side of the large central gully which splits the buttress. The first two and a half pitches were climbed ground-up on trad, but there is now a couple of bolts at the crux on the first pitch. Every pitch of this route is worth doing in its own right... no boring bits! Note the hardest moves (3rd pitch) are on bolts. All anchors are bolted.
Rack: Doubles to #4, one #5 or #6. Descent: Great rap line - all pitches are less than 30m so it can be done with a single 60m rope. Every rap leads you directly down to the previous belay, except for the first anchor which is slightly right of the rap line but is easy to swing across to. |
24
★★ Five Legged Goat
A wildly overhanging, left-leaning hand crack! Rope stretcher - use a 70m rope or tie knots in your 60m. Located at the far left-hand side of the crag, up the access ramp with a white fixed rope. Start up the block just left of the main crack, placing a good cam off the ground to protect the start moves. Span across to the main crack and then blast upwards. The crux is hand jams. Rack: Single rack of wires and small cams, double rack of cams from #0.4 -#3,one #4. Hexes work great too! Make sure you keep a #.5 and a #.75 camalot for the top section where the gear options get a bit limited. |
19
★★ El pollo loco
More fixed ropes lead up and left from 'Five Legged Goat'. 'El pollo loco' starts on a small ledge with two chains.
Descent: A 60m rope will suffice. There is a rappel anchor at the right end of the P1 traverse. ~25 more meters from here brings you back to the access track. |
The Slip Boulder
A decent sized boulder in the middle of a huge clearing. Looks to have been brought down as the result of a huge landslide. |
Coromandel Peninsula Tairua Crag The Slip Boulder |
V1
Sport Climbers Day Off
Up the arrete on the left to the top |
V3
★ Wizard Goat
Up the left side of the face without using the arrete. Feels like Castle Hill bouldering. |
Coromandel Peninsula |
Te Ananui
(Main carpark-37.185153, 175.884172). Access mostly @low tide. |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui |
Waterfall Wall |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui Waterfall Wall |
15 ★ Yosemite Falls |
17 ★ Ash Wednesday |
19 ★ Good Friday |
16 Waiver Up |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui |
Surf's up Wall |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui Surf's up Wall |
16 ★ She Shall on the Sea Shore |
19 ★★ Apathy |
22 ★★ Anarchy |
21 ★★★ Romancing the Stone |
16 Void to the Sea |
20 Procrastination |
13 Ellen's Route |
18 ★ Fallen Angel |
21 The Mission Bell |
20 ★ Thunder Road |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui |
The Tunnel Area |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui The Tunnel Area |
18 ★ Simon the Drowning Belayer |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui |
The Cheddar Masters Choice |
Coromandel Peninsula Te Ananui The Cheddar Masters Choice |
20 Dreams are Brie |
19 Strontium Dog |