등정들 Oceania에서 Brendan Heywood에 의한

Surprisingly can pull on fairly easily and reach the second move statically. Transferring weight over to the right gaston and feet through is silly hard

Had another quick play and surprised my self by moving from under the bulge up through into the 'hole'. Makes me psyched that this is doable!

Not much progress, could barely pull on this time

Worked the first moves to the first rest. Can hold things that previously were just silly, but no massive progress yet

I can just barely pull on, the local gravity field in the cave is strong

Meh, so so so sharp

Either a very big move to a thumb catch or gaston, or more static through the slopy side pull. Will be back

Surprisingly I managed to get my arse off the ground (even with three pads).

Worked it for a while, feeling fairly comfy on the first few moves, the pinch move beta from Alan is good, I can accurately heel hook but just can't put much weight on so falling into the crux. Need to be almost static. More legs!

First actual attempts with pads, daunting! First few jams are ok, needs lots of abs to stay in it and then gets hectic

We tried super-gluing our finger tips which seemed to work pretty well consider how many attempts we had and didn't rage quit after the 3rd attempt. Its been yonks since I've been on this, I re-figured out how to hold the left crimp, the right is still fairly painful.

Rapped off and jugged up taking pics of Sasha, who all-but sent this

Cleaning, belaying, faffing around with a belay chair

Watched Adam work the moves and didn't seem so hard from the ground Pretty nails, got to third bolt, which is to say I barely got onto the route

Barely got off the ground, thrashed

Had a bunch of goes on this, super delicate barn door action. Got within a foot of the glory side pull hold and it feels possible

Feels doable but just can't place my left hand right or my feet.

Tried this a few times going directly across. Foot keeps blowing but the distance isn't too bad. Defeated trying to re-tick it the other way

Yet another session re-working this with no luck. I did redo the weird drop knee and hip movement that got me into to the matched hold but just juiced. More energy!

Worked this for ages. Initially thought it would be match on good crimp, high right step and launch. turns on good crimp is not, and high step is worse. Was getting pretty hot towards the end, waiting for cloud cover for each attempt

Totally sick to see this go down!

https://www.facebook.com/brendan.heywood/posts/10153242680350841

Hard, balancy, sharp, daunting

Had one tired burn coming out of the crack, have some weird ideas about cutting sick and doing an inverted foot lock and topping out in reverse

Wasn't actually working thing, I didn't really look at the guide and just stand started on the obvious jug rail and then topped out first go. Probably V3 and might be a worthy problem in its own right

My first ever V7! Super stoked and what a problem. As the devil's kitchen is now 15cm under water we walked in a dozen milk crates and set up the pads on that. Pretty comical at times and painful when it goes bad. Tommy and I both got it 4th try. The new best highlight of the day!

And not simply content with finally sending a V7 I had to go send another one. Almost the same sequence. I think it was also 4th attempt. Hardest move is getting established on the starting slopers, the roof jugs and mantle and easy.

Rapped into to take some pics and got a nice vid of Michael taking a whipper when a piece popped. Done a lot of jugging today, way more than the I've climbed

'Attempt' is being polite. I flailed on this hard. I've given Michael so many catches it was overdue I had a play. The first half is nice and easy but not trivial. Maybe grade 18 and I've often wondered about it being a route in its own right as the two sections are so different in style and grade. At the roof the doom music kicks in and its just ... hard. I may have done about 4 actual moves total on the head wall between sags

Worked it with Ben and got it again. Very happy!

Woohoo!! Super stoked to send this. First attempt I tried a new sequence and stuck it, which unlocked it: right crimp, left big sloper, match, shift weight on right foot, right to crux sloper, then slab left to pinch sloper, twist into layback and high step left foot, then right hand up to dimple in the slab and stand up. Then another 5 or so attempts working the top sequence and then felt pretty easy linking it all. Awesome

Sick! First proper play on this I'd always thought it looked really hard. First attempt stuck the first 4-5 moves and knew it would go. Ticked it on 3rd or 4th attempt. Now I gotta work the linkup into 'fire in the hole'

Tommy Krauss showed me some beta which made this really easy, flash pumped on the mantle and got it second try. Stoked!

Tommy's beta of double knee bar didn't work so great for me, I keep them out with left toe flag on the roof and dead point the right hand.

Had a cursory play on this but wasn't inspired at all. Dodgy fall.

Another thrash but too hot.

Haven't got back on this since I sent it ages ago, did first 4 moves no problem up to crux and greased off half a dozen times

Best attempt so far, used different right hand which gave me another few cm's ape and can just hit the lip

Just on dusk, friction was great and gave it a quick burn and almost got it and got really pchyced. 4-5 try's as the light died but no sendage

It toggled back and forth between thinking it was way harder than I'd thought, and then slowly unlocking it. I did the far left start, traverse through the giant ledge and up to the second slopy rail. Just need to stick the sideways dyno to the top

This thing is great but hard

This looks rad but the feet are glassy. If you can get on I think the rest would be much easier.

Had a good solid few cracks and very close. Took shoes off as the sun set. Found second wind, shoes on, and had a few more cracks and was super close to a resend but just running out of skin and called it

Felt thin and abrasive at the end of the day

This was wet, like dripping really wet. It would have been 2 or 3m under water but should have been drying out for at least 6 weeks so not sure if it just takes that long to dry (). Last rain was over 2 weeks ago.

Fun headlamp session, high point was on the disk crimp

Was looking forward to seeing the boys get a solid session on this while I was on camera duty. They made short work of it with different beta and super stoked to see this get sent. It still needs the full link up to be done

An optimistic scouting missing turned into an attempt. It started sprinkling again by the time we got setup and only 1 proper burn, carefully stepping on the dry bits, but after a couple goes we were just sitting in the drizzle with soggy pads.

Had a couple burns between Benji sorting it the 3rd ascent. Happy to get to the crux again twice but my tips were feeling a bit abused after the time off

After I got up most other things fairly easily I was optimistic about this and totally shut down. Start hold is missing but that's not too bad. Could consistently get into the shallow 2-pad pocket and just no idea (or memory) how to progress after that

Not even an attempt. I power spotted Volo past the crux starting holds. Seems around V2 once you are on. First moves are brutal

Still no resend but pretty happy to be slapping the last hold a few times

Very cool move, held the wide pinch first go, and almost fell into the match but couldn't find me left foot. Had a few more goes but kept regressing

Inspiring - except for the rain which just bucketed down.

Very cool problem. I can see everyone doing i differently, but all equally staunch.

Feels doable. Double heel compression works well but made my ab cramp in the middle of the night later

Didn't feel doable at the start but slowly inched each move out. Lots of compression moves and fully body contact. On last go stood high and was tentatively getting my left foot ready to move which will unlock it onto the slab - but over pinched my left hand and munted my thumbnail.

Awesome toe jambs, the theoretical crux isn't too bad but the last dyno to the start of rumble shut me down. A bit sandy

Got another 2 moves in the sequence fairly dialed. It keeps getting harder

Found a really far right toe hook which unlocked the last move, then found the left heel toe cam which made it static and easy. Still haven't linked the lot, seems sandier than last time