루트들 스포츠 클라이밍로서 Oceania에서

From 36degrees, follow wall R 30m past overhangs to big black wall. Route diagonals Left up wall.

Far left upper route. 7-8 FHs to DUBB. Access via Friends in High Places, then traverse L to DFHB on ledge.

Big holds to a rare crimp crux, then super horns into the sky. Joins BLD at its final bolt.

Tough little crux, great for improving footwork. Challenge your friction technique.

Start at RA's anchor. Steep stuff straight above the belay. Traverse L under roof to wacky slab and a rest above. Huge jugs and horns comprise the final third. 11 U-bolts to DUBB. Second to clean. Rope length warning: It is more than 30m from anchor to ground. Suggestion: leader lowers, rope toss to pull back to belay, second to clean, lower second to ground, pull rope to start belay, rap off.

The only non-steep warmup here. Stickclip. Stemming moves up past 3-4 bolts until it slabs out, then head well left to double rings.

Amazing climbing which is never too hard, but quite continuous! Start at the top anchor of FIHP. Step L, then three RBs to unique cave move. Thug R to jutting horn. Breach "slab" above moving L to find some harder moves. A traverse L, then finish on jugs. DUBB. Nine RBs. Lower-off into the ocean. Use 60m rope.

Start up TDLW for three UBs, then trend slightly L past FHs up the ever steepening wall past some crazy looking horns and the odd dodgy aid bolt. The top horn (the biggest at Coolum) rings when you tap it! Ride 'em cowboy!

Like Woodridge, had a name change and a rebolt to hopefully generate more interest. Follow four U-bolts up deceiving slab before traversing/walking directly right past two FHs and mantling up into the cave. You'll need a seconder to clean this route.

Get safe at TDLW anchor and pull and re-drop your rope for a ground belay. From this point, climb up and out left on FHs and biiig holds to a confounding and onsight-ruining finale.

Starts just to the right of LCA. Climbs the exposed arete before heading straight up into the thin corner (don't climb left onto the massive horns if you want the full tick), finishing with a wild move to breach the shelf at the top. Belay from ground as for LCA.

Start at the 'Nick' graffiti. Four RBs then finish up BBaJ. One big boulder problem with every move a hardie. The slot in the roof can be damp after rain and is completely frictionless. Deserves much more attention!

Up into the steep little cave, then across left to a hard move to gain the protruding jugs. Motor up the very overhanging arete on killer shark-fin jugs. Now rebolted with U-bolts.

Climb Hang Like a Fruitbat to anchor, but don't clip it. Instead head sharply left until you join into Beer Boob and finish. Have fun on the crazy upside down traverse.

Up the bulby horns out the roof to anchors. Feet more important than hands on this one. Ever so popular. Back Jump to clean and lower from second bolt.

Starts a few metres right of Hung Like a Fruit Bat. Stick clip. Jump start, up, then across the roof and finish at HLAFB chains. Similar style to Fruit Bat, at a harder grade.

Ringbolts starting just R of TMAAL. A weird looking line which climbs really well. Make sure you bring your kneepads for this one. Popular.

Climb AKTF then keep going for another 3 bolts.

Mat Eaton's futuristic Line. One of the king lines of Coolum; it follows the line of ring bolts then climbs into the cave to the lower off anchors.

Climb Evil for three bolts before trending sharply left for a burly traverse below SO (past the weird double bolts). Joins SO for its top two bolts.

Start up the first 3 bolts of Evil, then veer up and left for another 3 bolts before getting a weird ledge rest. A few more moves and you're done.

Defunct (was the batman start to SO).

Batman start from 3rd ring bolt of EWNP. Climb officially starts from the two closest holds to the 3rd bolt (funky jam RH, layaway LH) long steep moves up and left to Space Oddity anchors.

Was previously known as 'Motor Finance Wizard project'. Start up Thriller boulder, but instead of cutting left into Evil at the ledge, head right and up the blankish face. Huge throws on slopey holds guard the crux. The top is exciting and ever so pumpy.

The 70 degree overhung madness that rears above the walking track. One of the best steep routes in Australia.

Amazingly this was the first route to be equipped at Coolum (2 bolts); it was then extended another 2 bolts and attempted by various suitors over the next 15 years. In early 2008, Adam Donaghue refreshed the hardware & added two extensions, beginning both from a batman start on the U-bolt (Ground Control 28 going L and Major Tom 30 going straight up). Lee linked up the boulder problem start with Major Tom and Evil Wears No Pants was reborn as one of Queensland's 'King Lines'!

4m R of Evil Wears No Pants. Futuristic. Two hard boulder problems to classic upper wall. Finishes at anchor on right shared with Gladiator.

All the moves had been done but no one was able to take care of this one until a climber from Scotland, Robbie Phillips visited Queensland. He sent the route on his last day in the country thereby establishing Queensland's current hardest Sport route.

Bouldery start trending left on line of weakness, before joining into BTHTF at the bolt below the headwall (ignore bolts out right which need to be removed).

Robbie re-named "Taking Care of Business Project" to "Haggisaurus Rex" due to the Dinosaur skin-like nature of the rock and the fact that Robbie only ate Haggis the whole time he was in Australia to maintain his Scottish Highlander Powers! Rumour has it they shipped 70 whole Haggis' to Australia just for Robbie..."

Fantastic climbing on solid rock with exceptional moves. Start at the same point as Taking Care of Business and head right onto a small shelf – slightly tricky. Then head directly up into the obvious feature, semi-dangerous clip (ground fall potential). This is followed by some tricky moves to a cruxy dead point and easier head wall.

There is a bolt under the lip over the right side to protect the start.

A visionary route by Frey Yule and a brilliant gift to Coolum crag – thank you Frey for all your great routes at the cave!

Bouldery start left of Screaming. Control the move to the knife hold and link into Spoonman.

Bust out L from SI at 5th bolt. Great rock and good sequences have quickly made this a popular tick at the grade.

The must-do crag classic, featuring the biggest and most aesthetic horns and jugs on the wall. When this was first bolted, there was nobody strong enough to climb it. Oh how things change!

Up to anchor of SI (600mm sling), then head left on tricky slopers before joining into the last part of Spoonman.

This is the extension to Screaming Insanity. No harder, just pumpier! Three more bolts keep the lactic levels up.

Starting as for SI, step R on ramp and then blast the line above. Wear a shirt. You'll see.

Climbs Crouching Tiger until you notice a series of horns on your right. Traverse diagonally up to reach the crux of Kept Man. Up and PAST the chains of Kept Man/COD for another 3 bolts to the double rings right under the roof (Camp II/ Gothic Architect ).

Start with the boulder problem SI, and then ramble easily up R to belay on a cool ledge in a really good position.

DM with a batman start to the third bolt.

Climb DM to access. Belayer can either belay from there, or the ground. Climb starts steeply directly above. A few bolts trending up and left to chains.

Traverse right onto exposed arete from the anchor of DM. A couple of funky throws and you're ready to clip the chain. Best to belay from the ground.

Steepest route in Coolum. Start in back of cave R of SI. Stick clip first 2 bolts. Finish L of final bolt over the mantle.

The left trending line that starts left of WOC. The first half dozen moves make up the crux and are extremely bouldery requiring some strong core work to a huge bucket. From there it's a 45 degree wall with mostly big moves to big holds and a tricky finish to finish near the top of Demolition Man. Make sure you mantle the ledge at the anchor to get the tick! Anchor has been placed too low.

Start as Eight Minutes Abs. Join into Weapon of Choice and finish it.

Logical finish for WC. Cruxy ending on the upper arête (intended finish which was graded at 28). The right variant finish from the base of the arête has become the new ‘normal’ way graded at 27.

The line starting at ground level, 10m L of the R end of cave. Stick-clip the very high first ringbolt. Probably the most beta intensive route here. At least seven kneebars.

Climb CWAHW but keep on moving left onto COD. Finish up this. The longest route at Coolum.

Starts 3m left of CH. Small roof leads to easy top.

Start as per Crazy Horny till fourth bolt (long sling), then move sharply left to the second bolt of CBTF, finish up this.

Climb HF but continue left into WOC and finish at anchor.

Popular. Bouldery start then steep thuggery. The horn sadly broke changing the sequence. Many people's first 24. Back jump to clean, lower from second bolt.

Direct start to Full Metal Traverse (start at the true north boulder problem and head left to finish at full metal's anchor. So bouldery and sustained.

Climb Crazy Horny skipping the 4th bolt, to anchor on Full Metal Traverse via a two bolt link-up. A bouldery finale actually involves downclimbing. A better finish.

Climb Crazy Horny into Frey's Link (to the anchors of FMT - 600mm sling), but keep going over the block and finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Assistance is Futile into Animal Mother then all the way to Call of Duty’s anchor. Long draw on Crazy Horny's anchor and enjoy.

Start 3m L of Grazed Anatomy at ringbolts. Throw, pinch and scream for three bolts. After that, finish up Grazed Anatomy.

Start as for Chevy, but traverse the lip directly left on bouldery moves. Mind the third clip. Amazing bouldery climbing without many tricks. Great for getting you strong!

Climb FMT past four bolts, then up past another five. At last bolt, mantle lip of cave and stand on top triumphant.

Climb to Chevy's last bolt, go left and finish up GA.

Start just to the left of Yoink. By far the most popular route at the crag. Now rebolted.

On the very R end of the cave. Climb crack on UBs to wacky "rest" on arete. Continue through the steep stuff to shared anchor.

Two cruxy bits of extreme thinness padded out with joyous angular jugs and slots. U-Bolt anchor is up on "Snake Ledge". A 70m rope will get you back to the ground (just!).

Start: Scramble up gully to find the first bolt. Belay here.

Some big gymnastic moves on monster jugs. Up the corner into steep terrain. Pull L onto the buttress at half height; watch out for loose blocks here. DBB on ledge just below "Snake Ledge". Using a 70m rope will get you back to the ground.

To access "Snake Ledge" Via this route continue up a further two bolts to anchor. Be mindful of scree.

Shares same start as I don't like your Bonox. Climb the L wall easily past two FH's, then ramble up easy angled terrain passing FH until it's possible to pull L onto slab (FH). Follow the line of FH's up the enjoyable easy slab which gets more difficult as you move higher. The final moves traversing R on pockets are sure to excite. Anchor on ledge.

Traverse out right and diagonally up the engaging slab to the base of overhung arête. Up, with some bouldery, and then balancy moves on amazing scoopy rock features. Mind-blower!

From the right U-bolt anchor pull through bulge onto slab passing several FH's until it steepens. 'Layback' and pass the old rusty aid bolt via a stern move R. Now balance your way up the continually interesting arete to rap station. This "Warm-up" still demands respect.

Climb BFTB for six FH's then step L and up past another five FH's to lower off in corner. Interesting and technical climbing, the only downside being portions of questionable rock. All the critical holds are solid, but please, no cleaning beyond a brush.

Starts 2m R of the middle U-bolt anchor. A few tricky slab moves lead to some huge moves on mega jugs. Pass a few tastefully spaced FH's and boulder to the final headwall. The beautifully sculptured rock at the top resembles Coolum-esk features, power through three more FH's to a sting in the tail finish that will get your heart racing.

Some long slings will help alleviate drag.

Shared start with Fish and Chips but imediately trends left to follow the bolts.

Current climbers know this route as Fish and Chips but no-one can recall where the name came from. There is a video from the 90s where local climbers called it One Hit Wonder and graded it as an 18. However, at some point an integral hold was partially broken off and this would explain why the grade is regarded closer to 20.

Fixed hangers on route, need bolt plates for the anchor at the top though.

Thin and balancy face with three bolts to crack with natural pro finish

Smooth red face just right of Pot Belly. Delicate and fingery moves straight up the face past 3 FH’s . Easier through bulge to top (SLCD’s). 3BR, 1 fixed SLCD.

Good slabing with a sting in the tail, 4 carrots and one br.

Line of carrots and fhs to the right of frangipani.

Take the ramp and follow the chalk, glory jugging on an overhung wall. Alternate start to ramp, climb bougainvillaes start at the same grade.

Traverse the ramp.

Follow line of fhs, reachy crux and pumpy finish.

Pumpy with a staunch crux.

Glory jugging, follow fhs.

Great route, sustained and great quality.

Tricky crux through strange ramp, great climb at the grade.

There are two options to finish this climb. Right of the fig tree or continue up left of the tree through dirty rock past one carrot and possibly two rings. The left option is rarely climbed.

Stellar climbing takes the left line up this gently overhanging wall. Sustained and bomber rock.

There are some nice technical transition sequences that would make an onsite ascent of this climb feel about a grade harder.

Next to cave

Another climb bolted with Fixe wedge bolts in soft rock. RECOMMENDED TO NOT BE CLIMBED

Great short technical climb, starts right of ride my ramp.

Technical left hand traversing line of fhs. Great sequences.

Best warm up and beginner climb, 3 carrots and one br.

Great alt start to Vegemite, 3 carrots one fh.

Follow line of 4 carrots one br, shares anchor with dynamite.

RIP TREE 1/8/21 New Tree growing as at 23/5/23

You will be sadly missed but your memories will live on through all that people that you saved.

Start easily up through choss to base of slab with a FH over lip. Then straight up on small but adequate holds to FH on right. Tricky and technical moves onto upper face, squeeze underneath tree without using it and finish in small alcove. Chain lower off.

The lowest climb close to the water on RH side of creek. Takes the right hand slabby face with a thin seam up it's centre. Chain lower off.

Right and up from Goldhangers. Starts pleasantly enough to first RB, interesting move left to base of super thin bulging wall with vertical crack to left. Route follows bolt line avoided crack to left. 2RBB

Old top rope problem. Kelly Hansen holds the honor of having first top rope ascent of this little beastie.Up crack to lip then crimp hard onto very thin face. Tenuous and balancy moves under right leaning Flake to thank f*#K jug. 2BR, 3BB.

Fine and delicate wall climbing up the smooth face mentioned above. This route would definitely be one of the best routes in the region, and if you chose only one to do here it should be this one.

Another beautiful line, this time on the opposite side of the pinnacle. Start at the wide crack and step right onto the face traversing right towards the prominent nose. Straight up on immaculate rock to ledge. Finish more steeply on larger holds.

Carrots on top. Rap anchors on otherwise to escape.

Crag Classic. Gear at the bottom unless you like the look of the first bolt. Carrots on top, rap chains way out to the left on the pinnacle to get down.