루트들 Oceania에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

Cracks, then finish up gully or up crack to the left.

Start: 8m right of 'Sexless Sue'.

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

Start left of 'The Pleb'. Nice crack to ledge then bulge.

Start 3 metres left of Pulling the Yorkshire Pudding follow first of two shallow right facing corners, step right to block and directly up to top of pedestal. Climb through small juggy rooflet above pedestal. Small good gear.

The central groove on the grey cliff directly behind Bum Rock.

Climb the corner in centre of Slander Wall with two crack until it is less contrived to stay in the left one to ledge. Then up line just left of the arete above until large ledge at 45. Head right to scramble down near the chasm to base of I'm a Little Dinosaur.

This is the R corner of the alcove, once it is not madly contrived to stay out of Mouse Trap. Then up line on arete through friable rock.

Takes a line of jugs.

Start: Start 1m left of TLL.

Crack 1.5m R of Gummo.

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

The flake, pass small tree, and straight up.

Start: Start R of LS.

Start just R of DM. The crack then slender buttress.

Good. Start at the buttress R of DM.

One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation.

The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better.

Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.

1. 15m (-) Up short corner and left up ramp to ledge at top left. Or Direct Start (11): About 8 metres left of the corner, 5 metres right of chockstone at an obvious mantle move on the smooth wall. Up the smooth wall, the wall behind can help but is not necessary, no protection for first 5 metres then head slightly right to big ledge.

2. 25m (13) Step right off detached block on right edge of ledge and up wall to finish up right-hand crack on steep wall. Left-hand crack is 'Alychne'.

The small crack/corner system on the L.

Start: At the top of the lefthand branch of the gully, on the R wall, are 2 flakes.

Start: Start as for Quisling.

1. 20m (13) Up Q to the pedestal then R into line and up this steeply to a corner. (Pancho Direct Start (19) takes the yellow groove 1m R of the pedestal).

2. 28m (13) The corner then dodgy rock on the L.

The central crack of 'Wailing Wall'.

Start: Start R of P.

Tricky start then into the wide crack.

Start: Start on L end of Dog Wall.

Crack line between Charity and Mercy. Up crack over bulge. Protect top at flake and a big reach to the right will give you the bolt on mercy before finishing the slab.

Up the intermittant flakes, mostly terrible sounding, and a sea of moss in the middle of the slab between Debauchery and Prudity. You probably don't need to climb it.

Below Treachery is a buttress shaped like a shark's fin. Up the middle of the face, moving left of the small nose.

Brushed bulge 2m right of MGR. Finish right of yellow corner.

From the block step L and up frictional slab. Start 10m L of the detached pillar, under a large block which is 1m up a grey wall.

Take Greenfingers to the bollard next to the scoop at 7m then step right and follow arete. Gear not great in top half.

Not too bad really. A tricky start to easier climbing. Start at the obvious chimney bounding the L side of the main Reaper Buttress. Probably best to start up left and move right to below the line and good gear with belayer spotting (or stick-place a wire). Move up to and up the chimney to ledges at 25m. The climb originally continued up very easy ground to behind the Reaper buttress (50m abseil down Josie's Climb) or descend the awkward gully or find the abseil bolts for Reaper from the ledge on the right.

Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall. The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

Start as for Marginal Era but instead of traversing right, head straight up slab (limited pro). Climb R of chossy blocks to rap ledge.

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start between Dreadnought Buttress and Dunes Buttress at a shrubby rib.

1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start as for Dunes.

1. 30m (13) As for Dunes up the corner and slab but then skip the pitch 2 chimney over on the right by going straight up the slab, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman).

2. 25m (11) Drift left up excellent steep clean exposed juggy climbing. Belay on spacious sloping ledge a bit before the Oasis.

3. 22m (10) Head up L to the L end of the Oasis ledge and surmount an undercut slot (not kid friendly! Maybe try further L with kids). Continue to an overhung but very juggy bulge, and belay 5m above this on a good ledge.

4. 23m (12) Ledge hop up to a very nice vertical juggy wall, then up a slippery polished corner crack (again, not kid friendly). At the top of the corner move about 5m R to find an easy way to do the last few moves to the top.

Not bad, seems hard for the grade. Start around R from Eskimo Nell in the gully. Jam and undercling the diagonal crack on the left wall of the gully and continue more easily to first belay of Eskimo Nell.

Start as for Eskimo Nell RHS.

1. 46m (13) Climb ENRHS then continue up ramp for some distance to belay below a corner, immediately right of the crack of Icecream Man.

2. 25m (-) Bridge undercut corner and follow line to the R side of the Oasis.

3. 46m (-) The initial chimney of EN pitch 4, traverse 7m R, then straight up over bulges.

Up the corner of Sisyphus to ledge, then head up L on red wall.

Instead of going L at small roof, step R around it and climb the R side of arete. (Belay on ledge to avoid rope drag.) The arete soon breaks out above the gully between 'Fang Buttress' and 'Bard Buttress'. Continue to summit of 'Fang Buttress'.

Start: Start as for Fear Of Praying.

On the trackside of the boulder. Up wall left of chimney.

Up jugs by pockets

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

This is now the preferred way to do Bulger. As for The Keyhole then up pea-pod groove, then the wall to join Bulger. Finish up it.

Has a lot of loose blocks.

The topo is vague at the top - pls fix it if you work out where the route goes!

Start 7m R of BT.

Done in 3 pitches but pitch lengths not supplied. (1) Up until you're under the roof crack. (2) Up then do a loose traverse R into diagonal crack. (3) Up towards roof but go around it on the R.

FA: John Moore, Keith Lockwood - 1973-07-15

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.

If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.

Another combination route. OK at the grade if you're in the area. Start up 'Phoenix' until past the bulge on the arete to the left and then follow the arete ('Problem Child') to the top of the buttress. Abseil down 'Nakablitz' (40m).

Provides a good 4 pitch climb largely independent of Syrinx incorporating Clive’s magnificent traverse on Syrinx Direct (odd name for a traverse). There are only two short sections shared with Syrinx. As a whole, it offers good clean climbing, except for 10 metres of easy, somewhat mossy ground on the second pitch. That, as they say, will clean up with traffic, at which time we can probably add an additional star. Rope-drag can be a big issue, potentially destroying the fun on the traverse and there are many ways to slice and dice the pitch lengths and belays for pitches 2 and 3 to minimise this. This description takes a long, fairly direct second pitch finishing at an uncommon belay point. This allows for a shorter third pitch and the anchors are pretty straightforward so it’s quite an efficient option. Take lots of alpine draws or slings as most runners on pitches 2 and 3 will need a sling. Start at the obvious line 7 metres right of Syrinx, as for The Lute.

1. 35m (13) Climb the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. From the pod at 18 metres continue straight up the steep thin line, ignoring the mossy right-hand line. Belay 2m left of a large, precariously perched boulder (The Lute traverses right below this boulder to its rap anchor).

2. 45m (11) Climb the line directly above, keeping on the left after the first few moves, to the large overhang at 10m. Traverse right immediately below the overhang into the hanging corner. Follow the corner until it merges with the scrubby line to the right. Easy but mossy for a few metres up the corner to bushes. Step left and up 3 metres to the long ledge on Syrinx. Rather than belay here, climb up right to the short corner with the arrow marking. Belay on the right at the top of the corner on the narrow ledge.

3. 30m (8) Pull up the little wall above the belay then step left and up, moving a little left until level with the ledge on the right which is the belay for Headbanger. Now go left and up past a big bucket hold and a U-bolt, moving left through the exposed orange rock to the prominent guano-stained ledge (long sling on runners on the guano ledge). Continue left and up across the top of the major corner (airy) to a small ledge on Sunday Best. Awesome easy traverse but probably not suitable for beginners.

4. 20m (7) Continue left past hollow block to evade the roof and then up to join Pitch 7 of Syrinx to finish. Scramble off as for that climb.

An old climb which is just too vegetated and chossy.

Start as for The Lute but at 18m continue up the mossy vegetated line for two 35m pitches to join Syrinx at it's third belay. Finish as for Syrinx.

This good, sustained variant on the old route has become popular as a single pitch option. Bridge the deep line 7 metres right of 'Syrinx'. At 18m continue straight up the steep thin line (the original followed the r-hand line). At 35 metres, traverse right below a large balanced boulder to ledge and rap anchor(35m rap).

Note: Don't touch the boulder, you should cross below it. It would have been better if the new rap anchors had been placed in the line rather than on the traverse.

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

Faintly initialled.

Start: 15m L of the prominent arch of 'Fault Line' is a ledge.

Up black nose of buttress, passing steepening at top on L.

Start: At north shoulder of buttress.

Climb the corner crack behind big dead tree until it eases. There are two options : either, diagonal leftwards on big holds to a nice finish and traverse off to rap anchor,

or continue up corner until it ends, move right, climb short corner and step up left over bulge and continue to top (58 metres, original route)

Stepped crack 10 metres right of 'Cornflakes'. Finish up a small orange corner.

Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.

Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.

1. 15m (13) V crack then reachy step L to ledge. Belay on the L.

2. 22m (13) Up R to flake (hollow but avoidable), up L to ledge, R to balancey finish.

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.

1. 35m (13) Up Hurricane Lamp Cracks, stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance. Take care with a large loose block on the right here as you prepare to start the next pitch.

2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace, ending at double bolt belay. It is possible to abseil or walk off from here (and most people do).

Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...

1. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

2. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of French Crack.

Offwidth 5 meters right of French Crack. Part of the old descent route, usually abseiled but not always.

Onto small ledge and up shallow, right-facing corner to ledge below main overhang. Step left and up.

Start: 25 metres left of "Vanoise".

The first ascent party were not fans. Left-facing flake right of Sombrero.

Start by the huge native pine. Sail straight up the central seam, finishing centrally over steepening. Continue easily up the shoulder of the outcrop.

Seam 2m right of The Black Pearl (this seam is left of a short little corner), finishing easily as for The Black Pearl.

Start: 10 metres right of 'Prendergast', 20 metres left of diagonal is a bulbous hanging nose. Start under the left corner of this. Up slab, over left of 2 obvious loose flakes. Finish up corner.

Climb flake and wall above.

Start: Start below easy right-facing flake 4 metres right of 'Shadow Foxing'.

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

The right-leading diagonal flake on the right end of the black slab.

Direct line up and across 'Altered States'.

A novelty start leads to an intimidating finish.

Start under the massive chockstone in the gully below the "Cheops" buttress.

Climb up to and through the hole between the chockstone and the face. Up shallow black corner to old fixed peg. Continue straight up steep wall which is slightly run-out.

Doesn’t look much but quite enjoyable. The flake on the headwall sounds hollow but appears well attached at the base; use your judgement. Can belay above or below the chockstone but above will reduce drag. From the top of the chockstone, step left and up the wide, slabby groove then steeply up the headwall. At the top move right to the anchor above Kempt (watch out for detached blocks on the ledge).

Start: Short line R of IBC.

In honour of the pioneers who first explored this territory 50 years ago. Named in honour of the golden anniversary, Aphrodite’s golden apples and The Slot’s nearby ‘orange bowl’. Takes the big wall centrally, to the left of Aphrodite and The Green Singer. Much better than appearances suggest,with an unusual variety of rock and climbing, and a robust top pitch that looks pretty daunting from the ground. Start as for The Green Singer.

1. 35m Heave ho as for The Green Singer’s start, then trend leftwards up the wall to the obvious steepening after about 25m. Up this steeper section about 3m left of the deep crack (The Green Singer takes the steep wall to the right of this crack). Belay up left.

2. 30m Up rib towards alcove backed by a smooth wall. Climb flake line on the right, then juggy rib past a deep hole in the rock. Veer left and bridge up prominent deep line. Numerous belays below prominent orange headwall, with fantastic views across to the Tiptoe pinnacle.

3. 30m Up to headwall which is tackled on the left side of the orange rock. Push on with determination, until the summit overhang can be climbed centrally, at the break.

Contrived. Start a bit right of 'The Slot' at foot of big chimney-corner formed by the main wall and the Tiptoe pinnacle. Up chimney to eventually join 'Tiptoe Ridge'.

Another climb superseded by Chameleon Connection.

Obvious off-width crack at left end of wall. Take a big cam.

Looks great but is just OK.

Begin up Tale Of Woe then step right and follow sinuous line up and slightly left on wall.

Good corner.

V-corner a few metres right of Goonkachoong.

The right arete of the orange wall uphill from Tea is Full of Good Things.

Start: The Right of the 'Taliban Airways' wall. Appears to be the same as Constance Little.

Up the middle of the wall left of Generation Gap, finishing up left arete. Some friable rock low down.

Climb the middle of the wall between Sidetrack and Hump the Bluey.

On the back of the buttress (ie South facing). Climb the crack between the main wall and the detached block to the V cave, step left and through the overhang.

Crack just right of 'Dismember'

After pulling onto the grey nose, continue straight up the arete.

An OK route by a couple of disruptive characters. Scramble up to wall at left end of cliff. There's a blocky grey nose atop an orange overlap.

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now Wee Skerrick though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of Acapulco Gold.

1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

Offwidth crack 2 metres right of "Hell's Bells"

Quite good moves on the top flake. Start as for Penny Dreadful or at the next seam to the right. Up to the blocky ledge then take the flake-crack right of the Penny Dreadful corner.

Nice climbing, just avoid the hollow rock at the start. Start in the middle of the wall left of Exodus, behind little pinnacle.

Scramble to the top of ramp. Now go up short crack and scoop, trending right, and then back left and through overlap. Start at a ramp running up diagonally right 12 metres left of Belltower and just left of a large conifer growing against the cliff.

Chimneying to good wall climbing. Easy bridging up deep chimney left of Beelzebub with poor protection. Now finish up the centre of the wall above.

Follow a series of little corners just left of steep ground.

Start: Start towards left end of lower tier, immediately left of small cave and about 8 metres left of a major V-corner.

Doesn't look too bad.

About 100 metres left of the 'Swingtime' gully is a squarish gully with two chimney lines at the back. On the right wall of this gully is a diagonal line.

The next 6 routes are actually above Cream Between.. Either walk up the descent at the far left of the wall (you'll approach the routes in order) or scramble up from Sundowner (you'll approach the routes backwards)

Thin, R-leading crack L of RR to ledge. Finish as for that climb.

Middle of short wall (with roof at half height) round L of 'Mad Dogs and Englishmen' past tree to ledge. Wide crack.

1. 15m (13) Wide, overhanging crack 3 m L of corner at L end of recessed wall L of Winchester Cathedral. Line to ledge.

2. 5m (-) Wall.

Lovely-looking climb.

Start: Start at clear initial S just right of a scrappy corner.

Scrappy. Used to get a star but I'm not sure about that.

Start: Start as for 'Dilettante' at ramp below guano patch.

1. 33m (13) Go up 9 metres to the formidable orange wall. Now climb second pitch of Heart Full Of Soul(!), finishing up a crack in right wall of corner.

2. 10m (-) Pull onto wall above and move diagonally up right to a small alcove.

3. 17m (-) Ove bulge directly above and go up left to exit up tricky corner on right side of summit prow.

Supposed to be pleasant face-climbing.

Start: Start at in indistinct groove 1.5m right of a sharp, right-facing corner (Cancer).