South Donjon 모든 고전등반 2 루트들 에서의 절벽

Climbs the obvious stepped corner system on the east face of the south Donjon. The route starts up a corner left of a 6m high pillar next to the rock face.

1. 43m 19 Climb the corner exiting left and up to the ledge on top of some flakes.

2. 38m 17 up the front of the pillar for a few metres then into corner on the right and up to traverse line. Traverse right and up to ledge beneath roofs.

3. 41m 22 Climb up corner/peapod/groove/chimney above to a stance below large roof (Originally climbed as 2 pitches (20A1 and 19A1) with a hanging belay).

4. 40m 20 Traverse right under roof and climb corner/chimney above to ledge on arête. (Originally 2 pitches, 19A1 and 19).

5. 40m 18 Climb the corner past a tree to a bushy ledge. Climb diagonally left up lichen-covered face to belay in gully.

Scramble rightwards up the gully then walk right along the ledge to another gully which is followed to the top.

This route starts on the N.E. corner of the South Donjon, where a very obvious series of horizontal bedding plane ledges run into the rising foot of the cliff just around the corner.

1. 5m 10 Ascend the initial 5m. Walk to the left about 300m.

2. 30m 10 Climb down to the next obvious ledge, traverse left using underhand grips, and ascend to a stance at the foot of an obvious recess.

3. 33m 14 Ascend an easy section of chimney to a ledge. The Fislayjam section follows, up a slightly overhanging section of the recess. Continue up easier rock to a tree stance.

4. 33m 14 Continue up recess, up a face to left of crack, and left around small overhang. Continue over dirty section to block and piton stance on long ledge.

5. 7m 14 Ascend slight recess (to left of main recess) and do an awkward swing back into the main recess. Tree belay.

6. 33m 12 Climb easy chimney, then face followed by a more difficult face and layback crack to a large ledge with ample blocks. Scramble diagonally up right through bush to the top.