Avalon Area 모든 고전등반 8 루트들 에서의 암장

All the bolts on Avalon, except the top one which is still ok, were replaced in October 2005 with 10 mm stainless. It is fully bolted, but has no top anchors so take a friend 1.5, friend 2.5 and a few big wires and some slings for the top. It is easy to scramble off from the top of the route. The original route breaks left at the last bolt (26). Carry on up and right for the direct finish (28)

Start about 2 m left of Grand Illusion. Climb up then follow the grips up and leftwards to get gear on the arete. Finish up rightwards to top out. This was opened on pre-placed gear. Gear is minimal and not very good.

A good crack up an orange wall just below AVALON. Situated on the true right of the valley, on the last wall before the valley steepens up to AVALON.

1. 15m 16 Climb the crack.

Descent: Scramble down and to the right.

Directly opposite from GRAND ILLUSION, this line takes an obvious leftwards tending bulge and crack.

1. 10m 17 Boulder up to the small ledge where the crack begins, follow the crack and ramp leftwards to where they widen into a cubby (the crack ends about 1m left of here), reach up over the bulge directly above to jugs and make your way to the top.

Descent: Walk off the back of the bolder towards SOUNDTRACK.

Climbs the face just to the left of GRAND ILLUSION.

1. 15m 21 Start a metre left of GRAND ILLUSION and head up the face, trending left. Place gear at a vague rail on the arête and then finish up right. Notes:

2. Gear is marginal. Opened on pre-placed gear.

3. Opened on an international MCSA meet, gritstone-style. Steve is from the UK.

Descent: As for GRAND ILLUSION.

A short overhanging finger crack on a buttress on the true left of the AVALON valley, opposite GRAND ILLUSION. The buttress faces south east.

1. 10m 21 Climb the crack.

Descent: Scramble off the back of the buttress.

A short, slightly overhanging, southwest-facing face, just south of AVALON. From the AVALON valley, scramble up on the true left, past SOUNDTRACK. STORMCHASER is to the left, on a red-yellow wall, facing the same direction as AVALON and with a flat platform at its base.

1. 15m 19 Climb the main break straight up the face, taking care on the flakes near the top.

Notes:

1. Opened on the wettest weekend of the decade – the kloof was shoulder-deep in water!

Descent: Either abseil off some tat or solo down the east side of the buttress (careful!).

A splitter left-facing corner crack south of AVALON. From the AVALON valley, scramble up on the true left, past SOUNDTRACK and STORMCHASER. The corner is obvious to the south.

1. 15m 17 Climb the corner.

Descent: An adventurous scramble east then down to the north.