루트들 Free State에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Route only has top anchors.

the route up the middle

climb the left route up the flat face. Top anchors only.

Left-most bolted line.

Right of Kyla.

Right of Narrow Escape.

There are various fun and easy problems on the south side of the boulder climbing the well featured face.

Start sitting with both hands on a big ledge and top out.

Stand start to COW CORNER.

Route going over the huge block.

Right of In Hot Pursuit. Climbs the crack.

Start as for Sticky Weekends till the fourth bolt, and then climb up left to the arête and up to the chains of Bogey.

The line of pockets and buckets 2-3m right of LOST ARROW.

Takes the bottle shaped groove on the east side. This makes for an unusual but good route.

Don't stay in the indent too long.

Starts just left of a tree 3m left of Martin's Project. Climb up slighlty rightwards to a ledge. Good potential for a second pitch.

Climbs the crack-line starting 4m left of the corner chimney on the right hand side of the inverted V slab above the forest. The route is left of HONEYCOMB.

1. 17/18 35m Follow the crack-line for 35m till the anchors.

Note: A 60m rope just reaches the bottom with a bit of a stretch, take care and put knots in the rope. Possibly safer to use 2 ropes.

Takes the honeycomb rock just left of the trad route. This route is on an east facing side of the mountain that starts in a little forest.

Route

1. 17 15m Climb the layback, move right just under tree and up to stance in large round cubby hole. Belay IN cubby hole.

2. 12 Move up and rightwards on easy rock and through huge natural holes. Keep moving right till you see some other glued-in bolts and some chains belonging to SKINNY LEGS AND ALL. Go up and into a stance in a cubby.

3. 17, AO(23?) This climbs left from the stance in a zigzag manner till eventually traversing left into a smooth, shallow recess which is the crux. Pull on draws if needed, A0. Up to stance in perfect cubby hole. (Note: The last abseil is from these chains)

4. 16 about 40m? Follow bolts up the huge face to chains(shares chains with SKINNY LEGS). Scramble up onto grassy ledge moving left about 10m.

5. 15 Up recess to stance on big ledge.

6. 15 Up recess to stance under roof.

7. 7 Walk right along ledge for 15m to corner past one bolt. A0 Aid for 3m and scramble to the summit.

Descent

Take 2 ropes to abseil off this route.

Abseil from summit chains to big grass ledge is about 50m. Abseil from top of pitch 4 to top pitch 3 is about 48m. The top of pitch 3 to ground is about 48m.

It is possible with 50m ropes to abseil from the top to the top of pitch 4, to top of pitch 3 and then to the ground - but this will take you (and your ropes) through a thick patch of prickly pears, and should be avoided.

Several parties have not been able to pull their ropes after the first abseil (despite the chains being perfectly adequate). Ensure the rope is threaded through the chains in a manner which minimises friction and do a pull test - BEFORE the last climber comes down.

Right of Joffrey 2, longer route going to top of slab face.

Start near the middle of the east face. Climb straight up to a prominent flake or horn. Pass it on the left and then head right for the chains at the top of the next route.

Make a tricky start from the flat rock at the base of the arête on the left-hand side of the pillar. Climb the arête to anchors on the 'head'. Keep mainly to the right-hand side of the arête but do not use the holds on 'Siesta'.

This is the last line of bolts on this side of the boulder. The line is tricky and reachy. Finding the big 'invisible' pocket makes life easier but is not essential.

Start from the rock just left of the arête on the right-hand side of the south face. Climb up left of the arête to reach the ledge then move up left to the anchors on 'Dry Ice'. The start is fingery and off balance. It is difficult to recover your draws.

Start just to the right of the arête. After a tricky starting move, climb straight up on 'dinner plates'.

Right around the Boulder from Woozle Tracks. Pull up onto the face on good pockets. Follow the bolts to the top

Climb the line of bolts on the right hand side of Coffin Dodger on good pockets. Avoid using the block on the right as far as possible.

This route follows the blunt arête on the right of Rhino on the City Hall Steps. Communication between the climber an belayer can be difficult if windy. It is possible to descend by rappel. To get to the stance at the top of pitch 1 requires a little bit of scrambling. Otherwise, if you have two ropes, you can rappel in two 50m pitches.

Rising traverse from the left. Start from the corner.

First route here. Right hand side as you look at the wall.

A very tricky route for the grade, but quite enjoyable if you get it. Mind your head!

Starts underneath the tree.

This route climbs the on-angle face to the right of the descent scramble, which is itself on the far left of the crag. The idea behind bolting this as a multi-pitch route was to set up a good training route, which includes a substantial traverse.

1. 16 8B A Traverse

2. 16 8B A Up

Hanging belay route on the left of the main vertical face.

1. 17 3B A

2. 17 6B A

The long slab forming the right side of the Prow.